brian

I have not heard from him in a while. I hope all is well with him. Gary is a standup guy ! Visit his online store or give him a call for custom suspension components and other assorted bolt ons. His parts are top quality and he will stand behind his work.

yeah, sounds like the same kinda deal as 1dir racing. they are on ebay too.

dude, how much weed did you smoke yesterday before that guy took advantage of you like that. maybe you can get him to give you your bike back if you beg him.

Happy New Year everyone !!!!!!!!! Hope 08' will be very good to us all ! :beer:

i have seen some badass lids that have an outerwears prefilter built in. they look like they breathe really well, but prolly wouldnt be great if you get into some deep water.

call Jeff at FAST. he has the turn down filters. they turn down at a slight angle to create a little more room for the pipes to go thru there. also look into some outerwears pre filters, they work and breathe better than those uni prefilters.

im not running that setup, but i like anything K&N !!!! i used to run uni filters before K&N became popular. (yeah i'm old) but you can get just about any setup you want with K&N filters, and it will breathe way better than a uni filter. just my .02 :biggrin:

did you buy those carbs from 1dir racing in california ? they had me way too fat to start off too. i had to go buy different pilots and mains as well. i think they go fat on purpose so their setup doesnt burn up your motor and cost them big $$$ to fix it.

i had you go the wrong direction the first time. i didn't pay attention to the jet sizes you had listed. it sounded like it was lean but it is not. that pilot is way too rich for your setup i run 35mm pwks on a 4 mil with K&N pods and CPI inframes 1200 feet above sea level at 30-40 degrees a 42.5 pilot is just right for me. also running a 152 main at sea level you should need more fuel, but you have a unis in the air box so that is limiting your air intake. you could lower to a 45 or 47.5 (maybe lower) pilot and it will start easy. also you could lower the main into the 150s and be closer. try it out and let me know whats up.

ride mine in the neighborhood all the time. never had a problem with the shee..... just the neighbors !!! LOL :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

i bought a new RS stock replacement stator with an adjustable timing plate. when i was installing it i noticed the stator was not tight on the plate. the screws were tight though. had to take it all apart and re-tap the holes cuz the screws wouldn't run all the way in. after that was fixed i tried to finish installing it but the plate wouldn't fit in the case. i had to file on the plate for a while just to get it to fit and move in there properly. i am not too impressed with the product to this point. no problems with the windings yet, but it has only run for two dune trips, so who knows ?

upgrade when you are gonna get the cylinders ported. then you will need better fuel delivery.

maybe that jackass needs to hit the crack pipe again. $1800 lol he might be able to get that for the whole bike !

shit, bring em into OKC and i'll measure them for you if you don't have the tools.

Hot Carl !!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Dont know if i'll ever be able to see your username without LMAO.

put in new plugs and try again. pull the plugs after riding it and tell us what they look like what did you change that made you want to rejet, and what was in it before that ?

if you really wanna know, just measure the diameter of the thru bore of the carb (carb throat). if you are measuring in inches multiply the measurement by 25.4. that will be the carb size. (if ithe diameter measures 1.14 it is a 29mm carb.)

hey, if you are using outlook for your e-mail you might not be seeing the e-mails from the hq god. they are often mistaken for spam. look at the e-mails in your isp acct. that happened to me too. i didn't see the e-mails in outlook, but they were in my yahoo account and they were filtered into the spam folder. oh yeah, lee is no dipshit, he is the reason we all call this site home !!

could be leaking a little from the crank seal. the right side is the wet side. as far as heat, not sure. how much different from side to side ? i have a fresh motor and mine does that too. 10 degs diff -hotter in the left. thought maybe jetting but the plugs read the same???? only thing i can think of is the coil is not delivering equal fire thru every cycle. i worried about it for a while then i just rode the shit out of it. haulin ass at WOT made me 4get bout it.......................till now. thanks alot !! LOL

pilots really only control the idle mixture- 1/8th throttle. did you have to turn in the air screws alot ? if not, the pilot jets are prolly ok. if you feel that it needs more fuel in the lower range you prolly need to raise the needle (lower the clip one notch toward the pointed end). then, if i were you, i would get the mains you think are needed, put em in, and do a plug chop. but make sure you do it just as described in the directions. you are not looking for tan or brown all over. just a band at the base of the insulator. its the only way to isolate the circuit you are working on. keep in mind that you can do a plug chop test for midrange as well, just do the same thing at 1/2 throttle instead of WOT.

did you just put those carbs, filters, and pipes on? do you have any porting work done? if so, what kind of porting was done ? first get it to idle......... If it will only idle with choke and throttle, go up one to two sizes on the pilot jet. you should need to use the chokes when the engine is cold but not once it warms up. also the abps screws should be 1 1/2 to 2 turns out. from there you should be able to adjust the idle with the idle speed screws. no throttle should be needed to keep it running. then adjust the midrange.......... what is the needle position? then adjust WOT.......... do yourself a favor and just adjust one circuit at a time. keep asking questions and answering ours and you'll have it running pretty quick.

i have cpi pipes too. they did fit like shit at first, but if you spend a little time and space them out where they need it they will be cool. also, i have 6" turn down pods (from FAST) and i have no probs with clearance. sounds like your engine could use some better pipes, but you will be wastin your time going with the t5s. might be a good idea to pick em up and just turn around and sell them. the profit from them and the fmfs will prolly go a long way toward a set of good pipes. you have not yet even begun to feel how hard that motor can pull. get a set of shearers or cpis then youll find out what a badass motor you have.

the side with the waterpump,clutch,kicker is the one that will smoke more if the crank seal is leaking. check your trans fluid. if it is low you may have a bad crank seal.

Some of the fam pitched in and got me a pair of 10 paddle haulers on blue label rims.

You know that br8es and br9es are also made for a car. check with any auto parts store that sells NGK. the important things are the distance from the shoulder to the electrode and the heat range. if they are comparable and you like the way they work run them.