okbeast

If you've got 27.5's and the air screw .5 out from all the way in then you're probably rich on that circuit. Try backing it out .5 turns, wait 20 seconds then go for a ride, keep doing that till it clears up.

welp didn't see it was just for 1, DAYUM those are expensive....back to the Kenda's i guess :biggrin:

Can't wait to get 'em! Chase is amazingly easy to work with and has awesome prices. I'd recommend him to anyone.

Of course not.....got sidetracked apparently....... :: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...2661&rd=1,1 And sry it was $110 shipped. I've been lookin at new rear tires and had heard these were great but were really expensive, but at that price that's nothin really.

I had always heard these tires were really good, and therefore fairly expensive, but here's some for $120 shipped off ebay. That's about as cheap as some Kenda Klaws are from RM, just about 10 more bux...When I get some cash I'm gonna jump on this deal.

Yeah that's what the Indians used to do :laugh: sry Another trick I've heard of is if you test it cold, do it once, then drop a few drops of 2-stroke oil into the cylinder and do it again. If the compression goes up then it's time for new rings or a rebuild.

If you really want it to look nice I would recommend taking the arms off and sanding them a little, then clean them off really good with some soapy water, let it dry off real good, spray on a few coats of primer, then paint. This wouldn't really take that much more work and would help the final result last longer!

How about those Blacksheep stickers? They'd look great in the stocking too :biggrin: Let me know if you ever got anything drawn up on 'em.

That sounds exactly like when the clutch lever gets stuck out. I don't know what exactly causes it but check right around where the clutch perch connects to the bars. It should all be tight. Sry that's a shitty explanation, maybe someone can do a better job of explaining that.

Yeah sounds like a good deal....too bad this thread is from last summer :: :shoothead:

There's no real way for us to tell you the perfect pilot. I would probably say a 27.5 would be a good start, and screw your air screw all the in then back in out .5 turn, wait 20 seconds for everything to adjust, then ride it, and do this adjustment until you get it where you like it. As for having less "snap"...that's how the 'shees are, that's the powerband kicking in.

It actually does sound like a problem my buddy had when he had his slides in backwards. It would run but was kinda stumbly and what not. I'd check the slides to make sure they're in correctly, and also the choke tube. Also make sure you give the bowls plenty of time to fill, this will make starting it easier sometimes, or it's just one of those things that's good to do.

May be a dumb ?, and sry if it is, but did you give the bowls plenty of time to fill up after you turned the gas back on? I have to wait 2-3 minutes for mine to fill sometimes seems like before it'll start good. Otherwise I just kick and kick and kick and nothin. As for the bogging, don't know what could've happened when you drained them that would change that. Something could be wrong with the floats and it may not be getting enough fuel, but you said you checked that.....

Another user of Klotz Super-Techniplate here. If you want opinions that you could actually stand by, I'd say call up the main engine builders over the U.S. and see what they use. We're all gonna have our opinion, and it's probably going to be w/e was used in the bike when we bought it or what someone recommended, and if it hasn't failed yet then it's probably good stuff, lol.

Well if the temps didn't change that much you may be fine, but you know it's always safest to do a plug chop just to make sure.

What's the normal temps you ride in? I'd say probably go up 2 mains, maybe make a little air screw adjustment if you have trouble starting it.

I'd definately bump your pilot up to a 27.5, the fatties like a richer pilot. As for the main, I'd start somewhere around a 280 if you're leaving the airbox on. What is your intake situation?

I'm runnin pods and still ride through water alot. I've got outerwears so I don't worry about it too much, I just hope they do their job, LOL. Course with a brand new motor like yours I might be a little worried about it

I asked my parents for the modded shift star from you. They ran into a problem when they tried to order off the internet but apparently we can't yet? So I gave them the #...is there a special HQ discount that they could get or what? I asked my parents for the modded shift star from you. They ran into a problem when they tried to order off the internet but apparently we can't yet? So I gave them the #...is there a special HQ discount that they could get or what?

I've read that somewhere else. If the yfz spindles don't work out no biggie, the brakes and everything will still swap over to the 'shee spindles :biggrin:

Well looky there, it's a small world aint it? I'm okbeast over on CTW...good to see some fellow banshee'ers out there.

Will do :biggrin:

'98 Blaster, new top-end with no more than 5 hours on it. New crank seal, new clutches/springs. Asking $1300. PM me for more pics or email me at [email protected] http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/okbeast/1.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/okbeast/2.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p194/okbeast/3.jpg

I'll see on the shocks, I've ridden a stock yfz before but don't really remember what the ride was like. I was curious what all adjustments the yfz shocks have? Anyone know? Oh and he's throwin in the brake perch/lever assembly too...boy this couldn't get any better for me

I was gonna say 350 but then I saw it was ported and has the CPI's, and I'm guessing that's why more gas is needed up top correct?