letsgetthisdone

lmao.... :yelrotflmao:

he's talking about having handlebar riser and say, cr hi bend bars on your bike. i'm goin to be running a setup like that so when i'm standing strait up on my shee, i don't have to hunch over...

100 octane pump gas, and amsoil dominator at 40:1

dmc aliens are very similar to t5's, and since those are available in your area, i'd go with those..

if you get a 4mil long rod crank. you will need 795 series wiseco pistons to compensate for the long rod, your cylinders ported for the 4 mil crank, and coolhead with domes for the stroker, no spacers required..

your reeds might need replaced, if they're hanging open from being worn out, it'll make it really hard to start. check compression is also a good idea

wow, you guys really like k&n's. my single carb has always had grit in it with the k&n and outerwear on it. so i'm goin with uni's now. its what dirtbikes run (2 layer foam filter), and it works, so i'm goin with it...

i'd say port your stock jugs, get 30mm carbs, get a coolhead, and have your stock crank tured and welded. call Jeff at F.A.S.T. racing, his website is www,farmandsandtoys.com he will hook you a port job thats gonna give you power where you want it to be. that cheetah cub is gonna make no bottom end, very little if any midrange than its gonna hit hard as fuck when it hits about 8,000 rpms, then your gonna need to shift when it hits 10,500 rpms....not a fun trail motor imo...that narrow powerband is going to very difficult to keep on the pipe. not to mention you will need a lockup clutch and an override tranyy if you go with the cub..

sorry man, can't do it. i'd have to say the stuff is for me, and i go riding with my boss a lot...so he'd figure out pretty quick that the stuff wasn't for me. plus, the stuff you need, is stuff i'm gonna be gettin for myself really soon....so it just wouldn't work, and i like my job....lol

i'll pm you tomorrow if my boss lets me do it....

i work at Cycle Gear, i can ask my boss if i can buy some of this at employee price for ya....lemme know. i know i can get the axle, a-arms, and galfer wave rotors..if your interested.

4 mil crank, mild port work, pt hi's or toomey t5 pipes, coolhead, 30mm carbs..that'd be good for 60-65hp...

haha, haven't gotten that one yet...

the trailtech clamp makes the bars 3/4 of an inch higher..

for sure, first time i called jeff, it turned an hour long conversation....lol

you could always call jeff and discuss it with him..

whats the series 40 kit?...

the only thing i would change is thelock up clutch, you simply don't need it. buy Jeff's clutch kit and it will work just fine with the setup you are going with. And good choice on the builder, Jeffs customer service is top notch, and you will have a kickass motor to boot..

pro curcuits are good pipes, and they sound good. just make sure to get a jet kit..

looks like it needs footpegs too. i'd say thats a fair price for how clean that thing looks though..

get trailtech mr16 lights for the stock location. rockymountain atv has 'em. if you want more light, get a 200watt stator from ricky stator and put 75watt mr16 bulbs in the trailtech lights..

a spacer plate and reagular domes would be better, i'd ask jeff first though....and i don't think porting will be $400. you don't need to have your cylinders bored when its ported. Jeff ported my stuff but i didn't have him bore cuz i had like 20hr on the current topend, and they came back fine, no nicks on the cylinder wall or anything. my dune port cost me $350, so i dunno if the porting is more because of the stroker crank... imo, the porting is really worth, and will make a huge difference. withe just the crank, you gaining 5hp at the most, get it ported, its another 10hp...

the 795 series piston move the wristpin up 5mm to accomodate for the 5mm longer connecting rod. won't help with the port timings... i'd call jeff and ask about this.. i'd say just get 'em ported now, last i heard theres a few month wait, and he doesn't ask for money til hes done...so that would give you plenty of time to come up with the cash.

nope, with the motor out of the, there would be noting to keep the countershaft form spinning, so no point in putting it gear. I've done my top-end three times, never had a problem with the cranking moving and making it difficult to get the pistons in the cylinders..

i have a ricky stator. stator fell off the timing plate. called 'em up, let 'em know what happened, they sent me a new one, no questions asked. would definetely buy from them again.