letsgetthisdone

ok, your port timings are gonna be all whacked out without a spacer plate or not having your cylinder ported...or is he giving you a super thick base gasket?

so your gonna run a spacer plate then?

it looks you're running stock banshee shocks in that pic, if you get some yfz shocks, or works shocks custom made for your bike, you will get your ride hieght back.

i usually don't do too much break-in.....two 5 minute idling heat cycles, 10 minute run at less then 3/4 throttle, and i'm done....basically, break-in the crank (which doesn't need much cuz its all roller bearings), and then rip around on it to get the rings to seat properly..

did you send jeff your cylinders to be ported for the crank?

just use a thin bead of high temp silicone around the coolant plugs and they'll be fine. as for the piston holder thingy, never heard of it, never used anything but my hands to get the pistons in the cylinders..

he doesn't like them cuz they hit hard in the middle, sredish favors a smoother powerband, hence the very nice 450r in his sig..

then explain to me why, when i put dual carbs back on it, the cylinders ran the same with the same jets in both carbs....and no, there were no airleaks..

if you buy that crank form that website you are WAY over-paying. go to www.farmandsandtoys.com and give jeff a call, and tell him what you want. plus, if you get a port job to match the crank, you'll gain WAY more power than just the crank by itself..

cascade innovations..

i fthose companies say what they gave you is right, then run it. i'd just kick it over on the bench by hand to make sure the pistons don't hit the head and check you compression to see what kind of gas to run. oh and a leak down test. then if it blows up, its not on you...

the plate should only be 2mm thick.....and you'll need 795 series pistons for the longrod... the right way to do it would be to have your cylinder ported for the crank, have the 795 series pistons put in of rthe long rod, and then have a coolhead with stroker domes so you won't need the spacer plate at the bottom of the cylinders..

that i'm not sure about, but if you have to turn in your idle screw that far, you need an air screw adjustment, or a smaller pilot imo..

your shee looks like its gonna turn out to be really nice. what are you plannin on doin for the motor?

what kind of riding do you do? i have +2+1, and its wide enuf, no more tipping problems....

if those are +2+1 arms they are on correctly, to get the +1 forward out of them they are goin to be angled towards the front of the bike..

yup, hubs and brakes come off and the wheel mounts directly to the spidle shaft..

jeff @ FAST sells metal idle screws if you don't like the plastic one..

what kind of cylinders aree you runnin that have 76mm pistons? or did you mean 66mm? who did your port job, they should be able to give a goo baseline to start at with jetting..

those are pretty expensive. you can get cub cylindes for less then a $1,000 USD. but thecubs and prolly those cylinders too, are drag race motors, very peaky powerband, with no bottom-end, very little midrange, and then a really hard hit in the top end.

you need to have your cylinders measured to make sure the bore is still round and straight beofre you can determine whether or not it need or not it needs to be bored. most shops charge very little if anything to measure your stuff, and its worth while to have it done.

find out what the piston to cylinder clearance is supposed to be for your pistons. any competent machine shop can measure your pistons and cylinder to find out wha the piston to cylinder clearance is, if it is out of spec, i twill need to be bored. the shop will also be able to tell if the bore is out of round and if it has any taper in it. they will then be able to tell you how much of bore it will need to be round again so you can order the right pistons. cuz its not just scratches in the bore that you are looking for, a bore with a lot of use on it can become oval in shape and develop a taper, so if you just rering, you will not get max performance out ot it, and your new rings will wear out much quicker. let me know if you didn't understand any of that..

the cases will need to be split because of that countershaft seal going bad. so basically every seal in the motor is gonna get raplaced. if the motor still runs right and doesn't smoke white (indicating water in the cylinders), then it is not a head gasket or cracked cylinder or anything like that. your just gonna need to psend the $80 on a seal kit and a gasket kit..

stopping the water leak is easy, you take the clutch cove off and replace the o-ring on the tube that is right there and remove the water pump to replace its seal. unfortunately, you are gonna have to split the cases to replace the countershaft seal.

www.farmandsandtoys.com F.A.S.T. Racing, Jeff www.passionracingengines.com Passion Racing Engines, Jim www.herrjugsracing.com, Kevin they all have phone numbers on thier sites, as well as prices. give each one a call. see which one you like talking to the most and whos turn around time will work for you.