Snopczynski

Your blaster already should have a stock banshee carb on it from the factory.

Rhino 700. Thats the only one I will own.

yeah, but the screws have to be turned in a long ways I believe. (On a tors eliminator kit). Is your choke crossover tube on?

Slide cutout does indeed need to face the filter. They develope a weird midrange burble usually.

Get a set of csfx cascade silencers. They will do the trick. I custom made a set of stinger tubes for a bike with cut T3's. They quieted it down alot. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ They come in polished or brushed aluminum.

Actually 34mm is about the perfect size, the pj carb can be a pain to jet though. Take out your reed spacers, they cost you mid hp and torque. Try 195 main jet, eej needle in center position, 45 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on air screw. That will probably get you close. You may need to adjust the needle and main based on your riding climate temps. Also may need to go down a few pilot jet sizes. This should put you in a safe starting range though.

He probably is just stupid and doesn't know any better. Have him send it up in the mail and not with a package carrier. If you pay me through paypal, I will go get you one and send it to you. :biggrin:

You can run the 2 into 1 with a pwk 35mm carb on a dune port 4 mill. Just got to change the jetting a little bit.

Yup, I am gonna run 18cc domes, and my compression will only be 184 psi with my porting.

You should just get a dune ported 4 mill. Then you get the best of both worlds.

I don't remember the measurement to use, it may be on here in the forum somewhere. I found it, read this. Float level link.

I would still run an eej, dek is a bit lean. If you have any questions on it, you can do a search or ask me for recommendations. The float level on those is crucuial, with single carb, it sits at an entirely different angle than with twin 35's. So it has to be re-adjusted.

I cant believe you aren't smart enough to go to dynateks site and download or call them and get the directions. http://dynaonline.com/english/guides.htm

you have to loosen the ball joint bolts and then tap the side of the spindle with a hammer to get it loose. Dont jam a ball joint remover in there, you will ruin the boots, then you cant resell the arms on ebay.

I personally hate those magnetic drain plugs. Most of them are made of aluminum and strip out in the bottom. Not to mention its never a good idea to put an aluminum bolt into an aluminum hole.

did you file an alert with ebay? Usually they disclose the information after you do it.

Maxima 85w endurance two stroke clutch oil. I Change it after 2 weekends of riding. Haven't had a single tranny problem in 2 years.

try to get his phone number or address in his contact info.

you need to check the compression, porting and base gasket thickness will affect compression.

Sounds too lean to me. I used to have a port job, and fmf gold series pipes in mine, but I ran 400-420 mains depending on the weather and time of year it was.

If it dies off and seems hesitant with no burbling, then I would tend to think you are lean. What do the plugs look like if you were to ride balls out in 5th gear and held it wot for 5 seconds then shut it off? Wet would mean rich.

I bet he broke them off or ground them off to try and put a set of non pro design domes in it.

I would only let Dr.Q over at the LT headquarters work on zilla.

the stator they sell is the same configuration as the old ricky stator units. Dual outputs.

gps is the most accurate, but you have to stay in the operating range of the gps unit. Some of the cheap pieces of shit aren't accurate at higher speeds.