Snopczynski

Who has pics of the stock stator routing under the carbs on the motor. Post em up. I need to see the stock way yamaha ran it, not what you have routed.

He just needs to put a set on and try to jet it. If its lean with new silencers on it (different flow), it will run like crap or blow up.

The silencers will affect performance if they limit the exhaust ability to well exhaust itself less than the silencers that were designed for the pipes. Silencers are usually designed for the pipes they are paired with.

If you never re-jetted with the dg pipes it needs to be done. The dg pipes are shit pipes, they are typically known for not making much good usable power as they are a shit set of pipes. Silencers stingers and outlets need to match or be bigger than the pipe stinger outlet size.

No telling for sure, but probably not.

Yeah, all the banshees in the US came with a tailight, only the newer ones had a brake/tailight.

ok, you checked the harness and saw the regulator right. So how would a one wire box that grounds through itself convert the voltage to ac? It would have to have at least 3 wires coming out of it, and there would need to be 3 light circuit wires coming out of the stator to run a dc setup.

The top end you lose with a single setup is huge not little. It is 4-5 hp at around 8600 rpm, that is a huge number. Its an 8% increase in power just running twin carbs. Last time I ran my motor on the crank dyno I squeezes an extra 7 hp out of it just by bolting on twin carbs and carbon tech reeds in stock cages. I also added the dyna cdi and coil now. SO I think I will be looking at around 69-70 hp out of my 350 this summer. Here is a pic of my bike in the garage last week. You tell me which carb setup I am running.

did you make sure the voltage regulator was there or even plugged in. There is no dc on a banshee, it is all ac voltage.

dual 28 flat slides will have almost the same bottom end power with more topend power than a single 35mm pwk.

You over carbed it also. We run a pwk 35 on the 4 mill dune bike. We run a 38mm lectron on the 460cc 7 mill cheetah motor. I would have stuck with the smaller carb.

Unhook the lights, and check the yellow stator wire with a test light for voltage. report back.

I would try the same thing for a starting point.

The more you turn the screw out, the leaner it will make the a/f mixture for idle. You can also try a 45 or 42 pilot jet. You need to make sure your choke circuit is working properly.

Wow that was a really broad statement. You do realize there are about 5 different fmf pipes for a banshee and only about 2 of them are bottom end pipes. SST, Gnarly, Fatty, Gold Series, and Torque. On the Crank Dyno and my pants dyno the pro circuits are outperforming everything else bot-mid wise. We recently built a 460cc 7 mil cub motor that was resleeved and dropped the ports in it for bot-mid power. The guy who owned was a die hard pt mid fan. So we dynoed it with the pt mids then stuck my pro circuits on it. It made 5 more hp with the pro circuits and had more torque with a broader torque curve than the pt mids did. In my eyes there is really only 1 good low end pipe. The other thing is I know Chris at Cascade pretty well. They have never dyno tested pro circuits for all those torque built motors they do. I told him about the pc's, but to my knowledge they haven't checked it out yet. They have a chassis dyno anyway.

It runs like shit because your running a twin carb needle in a single carb setup. float height is also crucial (11mm). Link to a search I did.

I get all my stuff freom these guys. http://delcity.net/ The relay terminals are shown in the wiring diagram. Any wire you add needs to be 14-16 ga. Preferably 14 ga. I also added a coolant bottle bracket to my battery box today. The coolant bottle fits better than with the old bracket I bought 2 years ago.

go through the relay then straight to the lights. Then run ground through the switch and have that turn the lights on as well as ground triggering the relay to allow the ac through to the lights.

I just searched transmission oil and this is what I got. Search results I get irritated with all the questions and no one searching because of one big thing. A guy will come on and see a few topics about 2 into 1 jetting. He will say well that bike has stock reeds and mine has vforce reeds. Or he will just think his setup is different from the guy who asked before him. Base starting point for 2 into 1 jetting will only really be different if the physical cc size of the engine is different. Even then the difference with a 35mm pwk between a ported 350 and a 4 mill 396cc stroker is 1 main jet size and 1 needle clip position. So yeah the constant 2 into 1 jetting questions get old.

Its not that hard. Of course I am an ex Audi technician so after doing electrical work on those you can do anything. Float your ground. Hook your yellow wire and floated ground wire to a full wave regulator/ rectifier. Go to the battery with the leads. Add a ground from the battery to the frame. run a positive wire from the battery to the stock blue regulator wire or the yellow/red wire at the stator connector area. Thats the jist of it. It should work ok that way, but adding fuses, relays, and circuit breakers decreases your chance of issues with the wiring and components.

The relay and circuit breaker are add ons. The wiring is some added and some stock. The ac relay in theory should work with the stock ac or installing a diode in a splice and converting the relay trigger to 1/2 wave dc. You basically need to trigger the relay to allow the ac through when you want your lights on. As long as the lights are on while the voltage regulator is being fed, the system should not heat up and melt. So basically, having the voltage regulator hooked up with no load on the system will heat up the harness. This is because 200 watts is being shunted to ground through the voltage regulator. I also would only run a rs ac regulator with a 200w rs stator in stock type 12v ac form. So the yellow lighting wire just needs to be open circuit with the lights off. You can mount a switch somewhere and ground trigger the relay or switch the power leg trigger with a switch. One way to make it fully stock switch functional is run ground threough the switch and run power to the lights all the time. Then trigger the relay off the ground through the switch, and the power will get fed through.

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Never had it happen on 35mm pwk, 36mm lectron, or 38mm lectron. But they make high capacity float bowls for the pwk if your concerned about it.

Ok, so by popular demand here is a little how to on converting your banshee over to dc to run hids. It will also eliminate the 200w stator melted harness issue. In this post will be a wiring diagram and a few pics of a battery box I built. There is also a pic of the low loss snowmobile regulator/rectifier that I use to do the conversions. I usually use a 10ah sealed lead acid battery. You can get them at batteries plus. You can obviously change your switch options for what you run with lighting. There is also a way to run the relay on a factory ac setup to eliminate the melted harness issue. That mounting bracket on the battery box is for the relay and circuit breaker. I use weather proof fuse holders for the 15a and 3a lighting fuses. If anyone has any tors boxes, or connectors with wiring leads, I can use them for this stuff. With the bike off and all the lighting on (130w) the fully charged battery will run the lights to 10.6v in about 44 minutes. The 130w lighting will use around 11-12 amps at full charge, so a 14 ga power wire will be sufficient since its only going to be about 6-7 ft long. Longer lengths should be a bigger gauge wire. Direct wiring diagram link *Click here* Battery Link Wiring gauge index Link

pro circuits.