Snopczynski

Your currently running a twin carb needle, you need a single carb needle. Use the ones I suggested.

It was about a single carb. I accidently erased it. Please resend it so I can help you out.

I will cut my dick off on video if that lying prick at rmstator is not actually selling the same products as Ricky. That guy is a lying tool. Steer clear of him.

Proportioning valve More links.

Yeah, blueprinting usually means getting actual numbers for existing components, and then doing machine work or modifications to get things exact, and all matched up for maximum output or longevity.

I pretty much hate about anything my cousins ex-husband buys for his quad. He tries to put stuff on it that is new, state of the art, and no one has. It looks like crap, works like crap, and smells like crap. He put grape scented additive in the gas. He has those stupid ugly laker plastics. He has them ugly cascade silencer end caps that look like a star. He should have saved all his money and got a new swingarm to replace his crappy stock type extended piece of crap. Idiot, I am suprised he doesn't have a boost bottle. He might, I got to look next time I am peeing on his bike while he is asleep.

That is an entirely too small of a needle. Should have an eek or an eej in it. Maybe as small as a dek. My main was at a 195 on a ported 350. We run the 4 mills at a 200 main jet. Thats a huge pilot jet, I run around a 45.

195 main jet, eej needle in middle clip position, 45 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out. You must change your needle and main jet, or motor go kaboom.

I would say right about where you are is probably the best place for you to be.

I added some more stuff. Snopczynski_Racing Link

the t6 pipes and vforce reeds are not bottom to mid components. You kind of already went one way and are back tracking now. A better combination would be carbon tech reeds on stock cages, and pro circuits or pt mids.

Snopczynski Racing Link

Your gonna need to do the test right to get an accurate answer.

top or second from the top.

19cc domes ought to work just fine for bot-mid power. I actually have a set of used pro design type 19cc domes I am selling. No need for an adfvance plate if you have the dyna program kit. If not, then it depends on your compression as to if you will need a plate. It should run pretty damn good with out one though.

Well you did a good job of matching your exhaust duration to the pipes.

Pipes? Recheck compression after raising that exhaust port so much, you should find its dropped quite a bit. I cant tell from the pics, the step in the top off the intake does well when being ground down like a ramp. Which bits did you use to do that?

Usually acorn nuts on a coolhead need to have 3/16" - 1/4" spacers for all the stuff I have messed with.

I listed the mods you can do above in my first post. For a good bottom-mid engine porting guy there is Dan at patriot racing, Dave at ILR performance, Rich's guy at Dynoport or me. Sell the carbs and get 28's. A set of tm 28's runs around $350 range. You could probably find pwk 28's easily also. All the stuff I have done is mentioned because of crank dyno testing I have done on the components talked about.

Well you got too big of carbs for pro circuit pipes, so you either need to switch pipes if you want a mid-top motor, or switch carbs if you want a low-mid motor. Pro circuits sign off at 8600 rpm, and with a 34mm carb they will never use the amount of air they can move. With 28mm tm mikunis you can use the smaller bore for velocity and better throttle response, and the ovrall diameter will be ok to 8600rpm where the pipes stop working. So you can run the 34's, but they wont run as good as the 28's will. For the riding you do, I would switch carbs and build a bottom-mid motor. A dune port is still considered more of a midrange port job we run pro circuits with 35mm 2 into 1 carb, and/or dual 28's on those port jobs.

low-mid port, dual 28mm tm flat slide carbs, stock cages with carbon tech mid reeds, flywheel lightened, cool head with 19-20cc domes, timing advance plate, and some wiseco pistons. Ought to push around 65-68 hp and have a pretty nice torque curve with those pipes.

The extra wire is a rpm limiter for the e-brake. It will still have spark, but not rev up. You more than likely have an issue somewhere else. I barely ever see cdi's go bad. You need to absolutely make sure your are properly checking resistance and ohms, not just making continuity checks. Make sure you understand how the system works. Most of the no spark issues I see are melted harnesses, bad stator windings, or a bad stator pickup coil. Or a tors wiring issue.

IS it stock gearing and stock tires sizes too, cause a 500ft drag is gonna be about top speed more than anything.

they all play a crucial role in the bottom-top power so you want them all to be right. If you call cascade they ought to have an eej or an eek and they can mail it out right away. Otherwise contact carb parts warehouse or pats small engine. These single carbs run mostly off of the needle, so main jet changes wont be super noticable, but needle size will make all the difference in the world.

EEJ or an EEK!