Snopczynski

Those things don't really seem to work in my opinion. I did a bunch of gps and radar testing in my Rhino with one of those velocity stuffers. It lost about .5 mph and 100 rpm with one of those stuffers in it. If it was really that great, all of us would be running them, and it would be deemed the next best thing since sliced bread. I have not ran one or dyno tested a quadf motor with them though. Rhinos operate at around 7600 rpm at top speed. I realize everyone's bike is different and will run different. However, when I see bike after bike with pwk 35's on it, the experience with them begins to grow. I have seen JD, JSD, Duncan, Patriot, ILR, LRD, Jaws, Redline, Twister, Trinity, and some home ported stuff with those carbs. Some ran good, some didn't. When it comes down to it, I know the owners of JSD, ILR, and Patriot Racing personally. Out of those 3 companies, I think 2 of the guys are probably the smartest people I know, and they are by chance the two guys who tell people not to run a pwk 35mm set of carbs on a bike with a dune port play bike. The other guy is a moron, and puts 35mm carbs on all his big stuff, and his motors get beat all the time anyway, and he has to build strokers to have any kind of torque in his motor setups. He uses huge porting, and I dont think he understands the meaning of port or intake velocity. So you can bag on the dyno testing, but either way its not recommended by the guys I know for a ported 350 play bike. Ported 350 Drag bike with high rpm pipes shearers=35mm carbs! :biggrin: Dune port 350 with anything less than a cpi= 35mm carbs!

Exhaust port height, elevation, and base gasket thickness will effect compression. As well as having a warm engine, accurate gauge, and holding the throttle wide open.

Often times people dont use big enough fuel line, and or set the float level right. This can cause the bowls to go dry. The things is this: Yes you put on a 35mm pwk, and it feels great. but if you would have bolted on a 28mm pwk or even a 33mm pwk you would have retained more bottom end power, and the top end would stay the same. Well why you ask? Because when your running a carb thats too big (like a set of pwk 35mm carbs on a dune ported motor) you will lose torque because of lower intake velocity, and only really pull max rpm the motor can acquire. The bottom end will suffer though. So you move down in mm, then you have better intake velocity which will make better bottom end, and your topend stays the same because you were over carbed in the first place. I know this much, the 2 into 1 35mm pwk on my bike was borderline too big, it showed signs of weird sign off power at peak rpm on the dyno that indicated it was almost too big. I find it hard to believe a ported 350 thats not a full blown drag bike needs anything much bigger than a 30-33mm set of twin carbs. Bigger is not always better.

The loss at the top is usually because of different spark timing, but can also be from slight detonation. I had mine at +6 and backed it off to +5 cause it was detonating on the dyno with 112 octane in it at 175 psi compression. I said screw it and ordered the dyna and the programming kit. I am bumping up my compression to 184 now also. So I am gonna recurve the timing at +6 down low, then back it off to almost retard for a topend gain.

There is no way in hell you need 35mm carbs if your play riding and have a dune port. I would run a 28mm pwk's, or 32mm lectron's if you really want to put a big set of carbs on it.

Screw all this, get rid of your sandstar paddle tires first.

I did Auto Technology 2 hour class in grade 11 and 12. Went to UTI, went to the Audi Academy, and became an Audi tech. Made $60k a year as a flat rate tech for 7 years. Switched to Saab because Audi became shit for warranty work. Worked in an Hourly Union Shop for 1.5 years, and finally made my way back out of the industry. I hate working on cars now. Do yourself a favor, go to school for architecture or real estate. Make tons of money and work on cars for fun. You have to be very smart, very fast, and willing to bend over and take it in the ass to be an Auto technician these days.

heres an idea, run the pro design domes, but just machine them to accept the pistons. EASY!

For whatever you percieve this as, here is some info. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...t=0&start=0

I have ridden in the dunes here in Washington and Oregon in temps about 96 degrees. But we go up tree shots where we sometimes have to back down and try to get out 3-4 times (all load, no airflow). I had my bike get to 205 degrees 1 time, and that was the hottest its ever been. I usually shut bikes off at 210 degrees. It sounds like either jetting, or a mechanical part issue like a non turning water pump gear or a bad cap.

cool.

Usually one of the biggest factors of how many rpm a motor will pull, is the pipes you bolt on.

I have seen a cub motor with pt mids and pro circuits peak at 9k rpm on that dyno also (resleeved with lowered exhaust ports). Im not 100% sure if your only pulling that kind of rpm, that you will need vforce reeds. We wont know until dave swaps a set out though. It seems a little odd that some people take a drag cylinder with an exhaust port that cant be lowered without re-sleeving and bolt on mid range pipes to it. I dont get why they dont go out and try to find a power valve cylinder setup if they want a high flow cylinder that will make bottom-mid power..

Just a drag race then? Whats done to the Rhino? If its a race through the mud, you will lose.

Are you sure its jetted right? One easy way to make it heat, is running it lean.

The laeger pro-trax if I am not mistaken was a banshee with trx250r suspension geometry.

39 pwk is at least 4mm's too big. Anyway 195 main jet, eej needle, center clip position, 45 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on the air screw. That is a Starting point.

My point is, no matter what some people do and how informative it is. There is always that one guy that has to fight it to the end and say its crap, without just leaving it alone and letting other people form their own opinions. People on here can read, they dont have to thinks it will work or make a difference if they dont want to. So form your opinion, dont worry about my opinion, and keep on living. I dont know of any drag motors that peak at 9k rpm. So I personally dont see any point in running the v-force setup. But hey, thats my opinion, glad I had the oppurtunity to share it with all you.

if it is around stock bore. 33mm-35mm carb. Probably preferably a 34mm flatslide mikuni. or 35mm pwk.

that was already taken care of two posts up.

Modern snowmobile motors are designed and clutched to maintain absolute peak rpm ALL the time. You dont wick the throttle on a sled like on a quad.

Well DAJ I re-read it and I did say that, and I apologize. I guess I should have said something more along the lines of: "V-force reeds on these two 9k rpm motors was not as accomodating as stock cages with mid tension carbon tech reeds". I talked to Dan Wade today, and he said what I suspected was right. They dyno tested a set of vforce reeds against a tdr setup in a cheetah alcohol drag motor. The motor lost 6hp with taking out the vforce setup and putting in the tdr setup. The vforce reeds are definitely setup to flow, I am just not convinced a stock cylinder smaller bore motor play, trail, and mx motor needs them.

Ok, well I am not the one making up stuff here. Its hard to clarify things when you put words in my mouth. I never once said the vf3's are a "joke" as you put several times in capitals and quotations. If you read every post I made, it said the stock cages with carbon tech reeds outperformed them. Then it never said anything like they suck, or they are a joke, or what a piece of shit. We tested them on a 4mill and my ported 350, and the results were the same on both. So its not just a comparison on "my setup" as you put it. One other thing with carbon tech reeds is you can get low, mid, and high tension reeds that you can tailor more towards your engine package and pipes. Besides all that, we weren't talking about stock cages with dual stage carbon reeds. We were talking about stock cages with a set of carbon tech single stage reeds. So, because they do come in different tensions, it will make more of a difference than just slapping in a set of generic petals or cages and hoping for the power increase. It may have been just tested on a dyno, but when those reeds were developed by moto tassinari, they were developed on a dyno. Then they use their dyno testing numbers as a huge marketing tool to sell to people like on this forum. I just simply took the setup and compared it to what other good stuff there is and posted the results after testing on a 3rd party, non-affiliated, accurate crank dyno. If moto tassinari really made a product that was that great, then the bike manufacturers would have sent them a check and dropped that cage design in all the factory bikes they make. So if you run a boost bottle, and I said it made no extra power after testing 2 engines on the dyno, then will you come on here and tell everyone not to listen! Because this was on your setup, and because the manufacturer told you it would make power by just bolting it on your machine. And you can feel the difference. Its your word against the dyno, so people have to think about that. Well I can bolt on a high flow cage that everyone seems to run. It is claims to make more power, and there is dyno testing on it. Or I can fit in a reed petal that can be ordered for the specific range of power I want, and I can try that out instead for 1/3 of the cost. I realize seat of the pants is way more accurate as far as bike feel. But moto tassinari stated an increase, and you probably get an increase. However, you get a greater increase with a different setup from what I have seen. The statement can sometimes only end up being half true. It may make a difference on your machine, but did it just change something, did it make more power, or does it make less power. The dyno is a tool to help decipher that. A good dyno and dyno user knows how to adjust correction factors for load, heat, humidity, etc.... and that's the key to getting accurate results to compare things so you dont just have to bolt stuff on and ride it out in the sand to see what it did or if it made a difference. So lets say if your in the market for carbon tech high tension reed petals, maybe look at trying the vforce setup. But from what I have seen so far, if you want mid reeds, stick with the carbon techs.

He said his vforce reeds ran better than his stock cages with dual stage carbon reeds. Carbon tech reeds are 1 petal (single stage) so it doesn't make sense to try and compare the vforce reed to a different reed than we are talking about in the dyno testing.

Do a search next time. 2 into 1 dyno tests link. As for as mods go, its not true about it not being enough fuel. My bike has porting done and a 35mm pwk is almost too big for it. It was showing signs on the dyno that indicated a 34mm pwk would have been the best way to go. However, they dont make one, and the pj is crap. We also run three 4 mill strokers on 2 into 1 intakes, and we run a 460cc 7mill cheetah motor off the 2 into 1 intake. 2 of the strokers run lectrons, and the other two run pwk 35's. I would bet if the bowl was running dry, the float level was not set correctly, or your fuel line was not big enough.