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Snopczynski

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Everything posted by Snopczynski

  1. I dyno tested the stock cages with carbon tech petals vs vforce reeds last weekend. Carbon tech setup made a bigger difference. Only time you need reed spacers is to clear the clutch arm, or on bigger motors. They do make a performance difference on a bigger engine setup.
  2. to fit stock boots on a v-force, you have to surface the nubs off them. At that point the bottom of the boot will be machined, exposed metal. Put a gasket on both sides of the reed cages.
  3. What needle and what pilot jet is in it?
  4. Is it a mikuni or a keihin. A 30mm carb on a banshee is too small.
  5. We run a stroker with a nology coil and the dyna relocated to the front. No issues, except the lighting wire melted to the harness which acted funny for awhile. Dyna makes a coil kit that they recommend for the banshee with their cdi. Its a DCK7-4 dyna part #.
  6. elevation, bore size, and exhaust port height are going to effect your compression. So, we need to know all these things first. Stock porting, stock bore, sea level compression with 19cc domes will be about 180-190 psi.
  7. Check it! Click For Snopczynski Racing auction link.
  8. You have to go to the ups hub. It usually costs me $25 a tire with a rim there.
  9. You just need a large head bolt that fits the internal nut in the frame, then thread a nut onto the bolt and tighten the two together. Stick a wrench on the bolt and nut assembly while in the frame internal nut, and loosen.
  10. you need to mix your fuel in a can. There is no certain way to tell how much gas you have in the tank and mix it accordingly. I cant believe some of the stuff that gets asked on here.
  11. 1.63 hp at 5,193 rpm.
  12. From my experience, a really good running and properly tuned ported 350 usually makes at least 62hp on a crank dyno.
  13. Cascade Innovations in Oregon, Hands down #1.
  14. Looks pretty good to me too. Most power munipulation is done through shape, size, and height of port windows. One other thing you could do is grind down that hump on the top of the intake and make it more like a ramp. Dont forget on the exhaust port, there needs to be a bit of a level shelf area next to the port window. That will shoot the scavenge charge up into the combustion chamber, and help it from pushing out towards the intake and transfer ports.
  15. Typically a pipe with more bends will restrict power. So 421 hit it on the head.
  16. I do some dyno testing with Kenny at S&S, he is a very godd and knowledgable guy. Your right in the back yard of some very good motor guys. Dan Wade from Patriot racing and Dyno Dave from ILR Performance both live in Bonney Lake.
  17. Carbon tech reeds are not dual stage. 1 set of petals on each side of the cage.
  18. Ok, here is the charts and rpm readouts.
  19. Call Rich at dynoport, he can set you up with porting. That was the right link. The vf3's we ran were with the round stuffers, then the stock intake boots were ground down to fit. Dave ran a pretty well ported 4 mill with the stock cages and carbon techs also. That motor also made more power than with the vf3's. It had pt mids on it. We should have done the comparison on the 460cc 7mill cheetah motor, but oh well.
  20. they are pro circuits. Thats a normal rpm for a midrange pipe like the pc's, ptr mids, bills pipes, dynoport 2 into 1, or fmf sst pipes. Stock pipes rev a little higher, but they dont make any hp till the very topend.
  21. vf3 reeds dont seem to be worth it. My motor guy who was for the most part right about all the predictions said the vf3's provide very low opening tension like they are supposed too. However, they just dont seem to work as well as stock cages with carbon tech reeds, or even fmf, and boyesen setups. He had a hunch they were a bit of a hoax, so he threw them on the dyno and proved it. I may post the charts, I haven't had enough time to scan them yet.
  22. Well we ran my motor today with a single 35mm pwk, and with a set of dual mikuni tm 28mm's bored to 30mm. Motor was ran on a land and sea crank dyno. Motor is a dynoport ported 350 (186 degree exhaust duration), pro circuit pipes, v-force reeds, wiseco pistons, 175 psi compression. Single carb shined at under 6800 rpm. At 6500 rpm, it was making 2 more hp than the dual carbs. Soon after 7k rpm, the dual carbs came on hard. Ultimately at peak rpm of 8250, it made 62.71hp with the single. Roughly it held torque at 41 ft lbs-42.5 ft lbs from 6900 rpm to 8000 rpm. The duals as said started pushing hard after 6900 rpm. Peak was 66.78 hp at 8650 rpm. The torque curve or torque backup maintained 42 ft lbs-42.5 ft lbs from about 7250 rpm- 8150 rpm. V-force reeds on a 9k rpm motor are a joke. Stock cages, boots, with stock boost bottle, and carbon tech mid reeds made 2 more peak hp than the v-force reeds did. Best timing ended up at +5. And for the guys who are putting humongous singles on, the 35mm pwk on my bike made .3 hp less at 7/8 throttle than at wide open. This indicates that the 35mm carb is borderline too big for a 350 that revs to 9k rpm. So, 2 into 1 makes better lowend power and has better throttle response. Dual carbs pull more rpm and make more peak hp. So obviously trail, play, and mx guys could benefit from a 2 into 1 setup. Drag racers, hill shooters, and high speed riders can benefit from dual carbs and the extra rpm/hp they pull from the motor. Single pwk 35mm guys, Perfect jetting on my bike with max power was 195 main, eej needle, 2nd clip positon from the top. Quicktime video link.
  23. Just cause It runs good, doesn't mean its running the best it can. We do alot of dyno testing, and a good majority of the bikes out there with 35mm pwk's are way over carbed. I have seen cases were when the carbs were sized down 7mm to a set of 28's, it picked up2-3 midrange hp and the topend stayed the same.
  24. 39 is too big. It should be ok with a 35mm or a 36mm. Dual 35mm is also too big. I wouldn't use over a 32mm dual setup on a ported 4mill. Only time it needs a ton of carb, is if it is a drag racer.
  25. When I talked to him he seemed like a douche. He is ok to buy billet parts from, but not worth motor work.
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