fox_forma

yeah all that stuff is gone

When testing though dont you test the primary and secondary? Primary being the orange and black posts which should read a certain amount, then secondary being from the post to cap? I couldnt get a reading when trying the cap but that seems to be normal with most other people who tried the same? How hard is it to swap out the caps? I have a spare coil as well but its missing one of the caps and I believe that one tests out ok besides the cap missing When I got this shee it was def jetted really lean and couldnt figure out why, so I guess that explains the previous guy trying to get rid of the rich condition.

do you have just an ign coil without all the wiring? I'm watching the one you have posted on the bay but looking for just the ing coil plug box thing ASAP.

Ok well I been dealing with this bike not having any power anywhere and first thought it was an air leak and possibly jetting. I have now verified its neither. I tested the stator and it came back fine. Next was the ign coil i believe with the plug wires. That read .4ohms sometimes .5, so I'm assuming thats shot. Would that cause my bike to run like ass throughout the whole throttle? I'm assuming once it starts to rev the spark is dying out or something. Does that sound right or should there be no spark at all when that starts to go? Looks like a previous owner tried to tie in a tether or something and spliced it off the orange wire going to the ign coil, I pulled that apart and re soldered it cause it was a hack job to begin with. I figured maybe that had to do with the ign coil going? I also pulled the plugs and they were nice an oily which I suspected if the spark it dying out its not burning it off correctly. Just wanted to see what everyone thinks before I buy/order a new ign coil. SHould I test the cdi as well? and if so how? Thanks

USPS is pretty shitty when it comes to shipping, 7days isnt to long to wait in my book, I been waiting over a month for shit from some ebay a$$hole. I never got anything from you but from the sounds of it you seem to be legit, I dont recall ever reading anyone else posting something up like this if they didnt actually ship and item

whats your location?

Pretty cool, how wide was that long strip? Looks like it could really easy for someone to get a little squirrelly and really mess some shit up.

Thanks, I couldnt figure it out so thanks for clearing that up, as of now though the brakes seem to be just fine and havent froze up yet since it has been back together.

whats the 10th digit of the VIN on the lower part of the frame?

it seems to be ok now, I guess it was that seal where the line out goes on the master cylinder. I'm still curious if that whole thing can come apart or not to get to the spring inside and everything.

I pulled the master off and it looks like the seal that was for the line that runs to the caliper was pretty dirty and a little chewed up. I replaced that, re-bled the brakes and it seemed to work. This was really late last night so I figured I would let it sit over night. Just woke up so bout to go check. Can the whole master cylinder come apart? It looks like it does in the manual but the only thing I could see that came apart was the lino out of it to the rear caliper. How does the rest of it come apart if it does?

I just thought it was odd that it worked for a little then went back to its old habit. I will check that out tomorrow and see whats up. I pretty much overlooked that cause I didnt think it came apart for some reason. ::

I have been having troubles with my back brake not fully releasing so i pulled the back brakes off, replaced the seals in the caliper and cleaned everything up real nice. Got back to bleeding the brakes and they worked how they should, the pedal would return fully after let off. I capped off the fluid and the back brake was stiff again and wouldnt fully return once pressed down. I cant for the life of me get this fixed. I have been using a mighty Vac to bleed the system and nothing, it was normal for a good 30sec and then went back to being messed up. If I press down on the pedal it will return a little then I have to pull it up the rest of the way so it wont drag the brakes. Any ideas on this? Nothing is leaking anywhere either.

Thats some funny stuff :yelrotflmao: Myspace

never had those pipes but my FMF's were kinda the same way, I had to really mess with the front mount for the pipe on the right side to get it to line up. It was making the pipe angle funny for some reason

I put mine is gear and held down the rear brake and it broke loose. You can also buy a clutch holder as well that will keep it locked in place

where do you live? Has there been a change in weather since this occured? Try going up a size or 2 on the pilot and see if it helps. Try turning the air screw in a half turn/ full turn and see if it starts easier as well, if so you need a richer pilot

you may need a richer pilot jet... how is compression as well? Does it run good after it has been started and warmed up

Have you dropped the jetting at all to see if it clears up yet? I couldnt see an outerware making that big of a difference but I guess anything is possible. I assume putting it on there restricted airflow like before making the bike run richer.

Just dug up the article from a while ago, it was pretty crazy stuff I must say.... http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/05072/470796.stm http://kdka.com/local/local_story_073093447.html

Didnt see it on Faces of Death so I dont know exactly what happened, but a close friend of mine almost lost his whole foot while in Cancun last year on spring break. He was treading water in a pretty shallow area and one bit him and took off half his foot from the side. Somehow they were able to save his foot but it was some of the nastiest pics I have ever saw when he sent them to me.

well shee is back together and guess what.... she runs pretty damn good, still have to dial in the jetting cause its shitty on the low-mid but up top it almost scared me cause I didnt think it was going to hit power like it should. It isnt smoking anymore also. I think the condition had to do with two problems. I believe when the previous owner changed gaskets coolant got into the bottom end cause i sucked a lot of it out with a mighty Vac, and hopefully I'm not this dumb and the main cause was a sticking back break, which it could of been cause it was dragging bad :: But I think the main cause was the coolant cause I was blowing out a ton of shit before and now its all cleared up, but i think its fat in the low circuit and mid range area so I'm gonna drop the needle 1 and go a few sizes smaller on the pilot. I'm still a little worried about the main cause I'm at a 165 and it pulls extremely hard but it seems most are at the 180 mark with my set-up. dajogejr: thanks for all your reply's, now I know a lot more things to watch out for and check over :beer: Now on to the front brakes and my steering stem which moves up and down, lol

I would think if the flywheel was still magnetized you should be fine, i have seen some pretty banged up flywheels still do there job. Whats up with that carb situation, I assume you fixed that since you took it apart so many times? Hope you get it figured out, i'm in the same boat all most

I havent advanced the timing at all, I was just getting a lot of mixed reviews on running 50/50 race and pump gas. I'm still working on the jetting though cause nobody really seems to have starting point. Either people who are running the same carb set-up are at 200 on the main, or there really low on the main so thats my next step to get figured out. Its the trinity 2into1 33pwk carb

I would the pull the kick started off the shaft and take it all apart and see whats going on.