fox_forma

TJ, What size are the rear tires? Are they in good shape?

I believe that motor is from East Coast ATV, as for the pricing, I dont know much about that

so for a mini dv camcorder it seems the choice is canon correct?

how much you want for the rear maxxis + rim set up? I really only need the tires but will buy all if decent price

that thing is bad ass

That looks really good, thats basically what I am looking to get out of the helmet cam itself. So you used that bullet cam with the sony camcorder you are talking about? A model number would be great when you get the time :thumbsup:

I understand that but what about normal use for the camcorder without the helmet cam, does it really matter then? I would assume the more you zoom in the quality also gets a little distorted? Thanks man Handyman: what camcorder do you use? Model number? Thanks

I'm not really trying to spend a butt load of $$$ on a helmet cam that wont get used a whole lot. I only really get to ride a handful of times a year cause the local spots are being shut down so I have to drive a good distance. So as of right now I'm not to worried about the helmet cam itself, rather the camcorder it needs to get connected to. Wallrat: what kind of quality do you get with that camcorder? Seems like its out of date with the 10x zoom compared to todays 20x and 25x zoom stuff. Although to me that gibberish for the most part. Any vids from it in use by chance?

What do you mean actual helmet cam kit? Like a helmet cam that does everything in one? I still need the actual camcorder for regular use as well so I dont think that would be practical. That is if thats what you are talking about

I have been racking my brain for a long time now trying to figure out what type of Camcorder to use for a helmet cam. Obviously it has to have an AV in for the cam to hook up to. My main concern is breaking it. I was hoping to possibly buy a used camcorder for the helmet cam and buy a higher end one for personal use. It seems though there is no real MiniDv choices out there that will accept a helmet cam anymore, and the older type camcorders like the Sony TRV330 are just tanks, dont really want to have that in my back while riding all day. If it has a warranty then hell, I will buy 1 camcorder and use it for all my purposes. Thats brings up another topic, where should I purchase from, best buy and circuit city seem like a joke, plus I dont see any cams with AV in. So what is everyone using in a way of a camcorder to hook into.

just thought I would bring this back up, what bolt pattern are the realtors? I know there are a few different patterns between years. I need a set up that will work in the snow but I need a 4/156 pattern. Thanks

I believe that could be kinda small for the 35 2into1 but I have also seen the numbers all over the board as well. As for getting your pilot out, just use a really small bit extractor, should come right out with no problems, I had to do that before as well when the same thing happened

i only have a full fmf system and bored .40over, no airbox lid either

you can also try using a magnetic pen thingy to see if you can catch in there. I also heard of pouring oil all in the bottom end and slowly rotating the crank cause the circlip will stick to the oil and come up with it during rotation. Although I really dont know if that works or not.

I had the same problem with my shee. I also have the 33pwk 2into1 and couldnt figure out why it was running so rich and cutting out. Plugs were getting oily as hell and no matter what i did with the jetting nothing changed. Ended up being my ign coil was going and wasnt burning up the fuel fast enough when getting into the RPM's. Now I am at a 50 pilot, needle at 2nd clip from top and 185 main. It is still rich up top but I dont have any smaller jets at the moment so I just deal with it for now. Its also around 50 degrees where I'm at. Floats as mentioned can be the culprit as well, with the carb off hold the carb upside down so the floats seat themselves. they should be pretty much parallel across for proper height.

Last I checked you can drain the fluids with only one hand if needed. Unless this guy only has one arm. I just went through the same crap for a set of fenders. I got them really cheap and they never were showing up. The guy said he had an out of state emergency, etc etc. I had a guy who lived near him in his state email the seller about something else he was selling and of course the response said he was home and my buddy could come look at the stuff. In the end I didnt get my fenders but I got my money back a (-) rep on ebay from the seller cause he was a dick.

damn man, i'll keep an eye out for ya, i live pretty close to the area. Might want to watch playwicky and the trevose trails as well.

you sure your not leaking gas from the carbs overflow tubes or anything while riding

yeah pepboys is like $18 for 10 plugs, I have about 5 boxes of them for my shee and RM's

What exactly did you have done to your blaster that made it whoop on everything? The preds may be a little heavier but there not slow once you open up their exhaust and intake some. I know a few people who race with the 450's and they keep up just fine. of course they had to throw the 440kit on the pred

Ok I finally got it out. Its not the type you push down and turn, it just threads in there. I finally went to sears hardware and started looking at some tools. Lucky me they had a long skinny screwdriver just sitting there and it happened to fit down that little slit thing where the cable goes perfectly. Then I "borrowed" one of there vise grips and had to use that to turn the screw driver I jammed down in there. I must of been drunk or something and really tightened that thing down. Normally I don't torque them down to much at all. In the end the clip was on the 4th notch down, moved to the second from the top and shee is ripping hard now. I'm still a little fat on the main but its like 70 degrees today and its normally 40-50 so I think thats why. Talk about a PITA though, I hope it doesn't happen to anyone else. dajogejr: I don't think that would of been possible cause the needle was still in there ::

Not to sure how to explain it, the needle itself isnt stuck but the piece that goes over the needle to hold it down completely rounded off on the top so now I cant unscrew it to get to the needle and change clips. I have tried everything to needle nose and cant get it out. Just keeps getting worse. As far as i can tell my jetting is good except the damn needle clip cause low and top its fine but when its on the needle circuit its getting way to much fuel. Any ideas how to get that piece out so I can get to the needle. Only thing I could think of that I havent tried was to heat up the slide and hope that it breaks loose but I didnt want to do that if it will mess the slide up. Helpfull tips would be great :: Oh yeah this is for the 2into1 33mm pwk carb. Not the stockers

Yeah I dont see a shee beating a 250 to easily, kinda funny cause I have a RM250 as well and it still scares me when I hit the trails and I been riding dirt bikes since I was 5.

a banshee worked a little should beat it, I have a pred 500 with trinity stage IV slip on, civic intake and a few other small things but my shee would prob take it. Its a whole different type of bike so I cant really compare top speeds since I wont let my retarded friend ride anything I own again, cant line em up

I dont recall the stock float heights but isnt 21mm pretty high? Most bikes are around 16mm-18mm i thought. At 21mm it could be possible its starving for fuel