fox_forma

Just got done putting it all back together but havent had the time to fire it up, prob have to wait till tomorrow afternoon. Anyhow I did a compression check, obviously cold, put a little of 2t oil down in the plug holes to make sure the rings would seat and let her rip. Each cylinder is pushing about 145psi. As far as I know the jugs have a port work, not sure how severe, and its bored .40over. Should my compression be that high? Again I am running a 32:1 mix with 93 octane, it seems a lot of people have different views on what octane to run so I'm a little curious to that.

just the statement saying you pulled thr airfilter and jammed a rage in there to get it to fire up is a good indicator that you are lean on the pilot circuit and it needs to be richened up. When was the last time you did a rebuild? If it was slowly getting worse and worse that could be the culprit

I just thought it was a little wierd that the silcone will be down on one side and up on the other for the gaskets. Guess i will cut that black wire off and seal it up so it doesnt ground out on anything then. If the ignition coil goes, will there def be no spark or can something else go within it? With that wire just hanging I could see it hitting something previously and possibly and grounding out, although I do still have spark so I want to make sure.

Well back on TOPIC: I started putting the top end back together, and I noticed that the base gaskets are exactly the same. Both for the left side, they seem to have an indent to them that faces up that fits into the cylinder somewhat. Also they have a little outline on the bottom of them in red, I'm guessing some sort of sealer, if the gasket were to be used on the right side that would face up and not down like the left. Does it matter? I assume there is a proper left and right gasket for these so I wanted to make sure before I take a long ass ride back to the dealer. And that bare wire I came across, it is tied into the orange wire that goes to the ignition coil. Any ideas on that? This is the gasket kit that the previous owner put in I believe, if you look at the base gaskets they look to be only for the left side going by the red outlines.... Make sense at all or am I just kicking dirt?

good stuff, thanks for the info, hopefully tomorrow I can see where I stand with all this. Another thing that popped up is I was told it was bored .60over, looking at the pistons they are 1.00 so that means they are .40over correct? I hope the previous owner ment .40over, looks like I will be measuring tomorrow. So many stupid little things ::

Thats kinda wierd, I wonder what would of made them do that compared to OEM ones, whats the difference in the metal? The one that is out, it can still be used cause it will tq down but I figure I might as well replace it anyway.

Ok sounds good, I know I have flipped my RM over to get water out of the bottom end when I sunk in stream crossing before but a quad would just be a bigger PITA to do it that way. Hopefully I can get it all out or hopefully come across an air compressor. Thanks for clearing that up on the head bolts and not to use the hardware store kind, thats kinda what I was thinking since you can get the ones that have the allen head in the top of them. How did you break them anyhow? I guess we'll see what happens, should be fun. Thanks again

Well i got the whole top end apart and noticed a few things that I didnt like. One was all the surfaces were pretty shitty and had a lot of dirt between them and the gaskets, so this could possibly be the sealing problem. The pistons had even use of carbon build up, seemed to burn nice and even so thats good. I noticed on my right side jug, the bolts that stick out, one of them has the nut seized on it so when I went to loosen the head the whole nut and post came out with it. Is there replacements for these by chance. Also I noticed some of the posts arent in as far as other but they seem to be in all the way, should they all be the same height sticking out of the jugs for each side? There was also a lot of coolant in the bottom end which I got most of it out with my mighty VAC but there still seems to be a little in there. I dont have access to my compressor to blow the rest out so any other tricks to it. The top head gasket was also a metal type gasket, should I use a gasket sealant on there to make sure it seals up nice as well. I know its a lot of questions but want to get it right the first time. The jugs looked great with no marking or anything as well.

Well I did the propane method and the bike fluctuated a lot when idling so hopefully it is a gasket sealing problem. After I let the bike idle I pulled the plugs and streams off smoke were coming out the holes, more on the left than right so this would kinda make me believe that coolant is possibly getting past somewhere? Correct? I also propaned the left side area behind the flywheel and nothing changed, so I would hope its not the crank seal. I pulled the pipes as well and noticed they are pretty oiled up as well but that could just be about anything. I didnt get to do a leakdown test because I would rather do the gaskets first and see if that resolves my problem. Also I'm going to have to look at the pistons and everything since the bike was jetted lean before, hopefully nothing fot warped or anything. A little curious but what is the best way to drain the coolant? Does it all have to be fully drained to pull the jugs or what, I noticed the coolant drain plugs also sit a little high in the cylinders so I just want to make sure it will all come out also.

I have a feeling this is prob my problem. With the spray test method can anything else be used besides carb cleaner, all the carb cleaners I have spray out a strong stream very rapidly and it seems that would get all over everything and then some. Oh yeah that link you posted to the manual wont allow me to fully download it, i can only get 2mb then it says completed for some reason. I have a manual saved on my comp already but wanted to see if that had any more to it that what i got

When you say the left side of the cylinder are you referring to the left crank seal or just the cylinder wasnt sealed up correctly? The previous owner said he just replaced all the top end gaskets so it looks like I will be pulling it apart to investigate, maybe something is wrong with the install. It also looks like a lot of the vent lines were ran wrong as well. I just printed out all the diagrams for the vents lines and for the wiring diagram so I can see what that one wire actually goes to. What was your fix on your situation? Left side crank seal replacement?

When you pulled your engine apart did you make sure you drained all the coolant out, I have done that before and coolant got down in the bottom end and would only let the bike fire up for a second before it wet fouled the plug.

Yeah i knew dropping to the 155 main was huge but I just wanted to see, there was orinally a 145 in there i think. I put the 185 before I put it back together since I knew I should of been higher with the 2into1. When i did drop down the main size it seemed to REV better when just sitting there, almost seemed fat with the 185. Looks like I may be pulled the head just to see whats up. Kinda hoping to avoid that though. As for the idle it will idle fine, no jumps in the RPM range or anything. I will try the carb cleaner trick again but I tried that before and it didnt do anything. The previous owner said it was fine when I asked him so something is just outta whack somewhere. Isnt there also a way to do it through the left side case as well to check?

Yeah I have the downloaded version of the manual but its hard to really read and understand. It just wont let me get into the higher RPM's, I figured jetting but I have been all over the borad with it and nothing seems to get better or worse, just stays the same. I also have good spark. I will try jetting a little more just to see but something is off somewhere. It starts first kick, idles fine but just doesnt go really.

Ok I just pulled all the fenders and the tank and started going over all the wires. I came across a bare wire that looks to be spliced off of an orange one within the harness. Now since the wire is black and is basically just hanging there, should I assume this need to be grounded to complete the circuit?

Ok I just got done putting my clutch back together and lined everything up like it should be and adjusted correctly. I have done clutches on shees a few times so I'm pretty sure its not my clutch. It seems to REV fine but when I go it just has nothing to it, no powerband or anything, kinda just pokes along and tries to rev out. It is bored .60over, ported heads and I have a 2into1 trinity carb. I was thinking it could be carb related but I doubt it since I cleaned it out a few times. Jetting in there now is a 48 pilot, 155 main, just had a 185 main in so went lower to see if any better response and nothing. Also clip is on 3rd notch, air screw 1.5 turns out mixed at 32:1 with mobile 2t racing synthetic. Since I never rode this ATV before I bought it I dont know if it was acting like this or not, the clutch needed to be assembled when I bought it. I noticed all the TORS and Pbrake stuff is disconnected and there are a lot of empty plugs throughout the wiring harness. Could this be the problem maybe? I'm not sure what needs to be connected or disconnect. Oh and compression is fine, it has to be something stupid I would imagine. For some reason it also has a fuel filter inline with the fuel hose, I never heard of them with 2 strokes so could that have anything to do with it as well? I have been searching around for a while on here but most of the same symptoms from other epople were clutch related and I'm pretty sure thats not my problem. Hope someone can help!!

kinda off topic but I have 2into1 as well, is there an easy way to pull the carb, it seems you have to unbolts the whole front boot just to get it out, it wont twist its way out like normal and its still a PITA

It could be a mix of being lean on the pilot and rich on the main which is giving you a decent plug reading. When you are at a stop and you stab the throttle does it almost stall out? If so then thats normally a lean condition on the low circuit.

the 88 T4 carb is actually pretty decent, it was the 87 carb that sucked. Also make sure it really is an 88, I have many many people say they have an 88 and its really an 87 model which is a lot different. 88's will have the gullwing lower control arms, fully adjustable shocks, powervalve motor and a bigger carb than the 87. As for a pipe, contact tecateconnection, the guy was designing an anaconda(sp?) pipe but havent heard much about it. Could also check kawieriders dot com as well, they have a Tecate speciffic section

Totally forgot to add. MODS: 33mm PWK Trinty 2into1 Full FMF exhaust .60over Ported Heads (not sure how extreme) It seems this thing really likes to blow smoke out of both sides, more so the left. I know about the seals and everything but they all seem to check out, leak down test and even tried looking for air leaks using the spray method. I'm just trying to get this jetting dialed in. I noticed my air filter is kinda sh!tty so I will clean that, I noticed a little bit of particales and possibly filter oil in the tube that connects to the 2into1 carb so maybe that is all it is. I really dont want to pull the head just yet. Will check compression tonight but it feels good, my last shee was a lot easier to kick over than this one with just foot feeling the compression. Also running a new tank of 32:1 premix using 93 octane and Mobile 2T racing oil

ok well after reading about 5 more pages i figured out I have the 33mm. It seems everyone has different opinions about jetting, some say as high as 200 on the main and 62 on the pilot? I am sea level for the most part but it seems the most common is around 180 for the main and 50-55 for the pilot with needle on the 3rd clip. Does that sound about right?

I just pulled the carb on the shee I just picked up and it has the trinity 2into1 set-up. How can I tell what mm the carb is? It says PWK on the side and has a few numbers and letter as well along the bowl piece but no indication what size it is. I'm trying to see where i stand with the jetting, cause right now whats in there is a 145 main, and a 45 pilot and from what i can tell I need to be bigger all around, plus the jets look all cruddy. How much of a difference is there between the 33 and 35mm? I believe those were the choices on trinity's site. From most of the threads I searched, most cases it seems like a 180ish main with a 50ish pilot should be in there but I want to make sure I know the correct size of this carb first. Thanks

that would be cool, would like to see how it actually works

Hmmm I will have to look into that, I have ran across several people who have had the same problem but most of them were able to somehow grab the nut and weld it back to the frame, i just dont see how cause its inside the cross tube. I dont understand why they just didnt originally make the threads part the cross member that the peg bolt already goes into. I was thinking maybe just tap out the hole and use a bigger bolt, kinda makes sense :shoothead: Wallrat: from what I understand the threads the bolt goes into is actually a nut that is factory welded to inside the cross tube which the bolt threads into, its not part of the tube itself like most other ATV's/Bikes. On occasion it breaks off inside the tube and now you have nothing to thread into

is it just the bolt that snapped? If so then like mentioned an easy out will work no problem, sometimes you may have to heat the outside of the area first if its locked in there. I have the same problem except the nut that the bolt threads into completely broke off inside so I have no threads to catch, still trying to figure out how to approach that one