fox_forma

I owned a pred for a little and they aren't slow bikes at all. I don't care what some say, i had my banshee at the time as well and always had some dick on a hopped up shee trying to race when I was riding my Pred that had an intake and full exhaust. Not a prime set-up but pulled hard and fast through all RPM ranges When I didn't want to get my ass handed to me by a banshee that the owner dumped 10g's into I would here the predaturd comment always. Those bikes moved just like any 450 and responded to MODS pretty damn well. As for the Outlaw, nice bike as well with the 525 in it but sounds like you have some Valve issues by the way you described how it just stalls out of no where etc. Does your bike seem to idle fine then just puff off out of no where and die? If so get it looked at, something isnt right. Also watch the rear wheels, that became an issue with the IRS suspension. When you would jump the arms would dig into the rims on a lot of the outlaws and cause the rim to crack or just completely break. I dont believe it was the arms itself with the issues I believe it was just the rims and spindles. Also could check out predatorowners.com I believe they still have an outlaw section, there were some badass ones over there as well.

clean your carbs out completely, make sure slides are correct and check your float levels.

depending on what makes you think you need a rebuild could vary in prices. If you locked it up then it could cost ya. If your going by the hours on the top end then you could possibly get away with just new piston/rings etc which in total will cost you a 1/3 of the estimate. I tend to just change out the rings every 30-40hrs and been pushing 130psi on each cylinder for a while now. It all depends on why you need a rebuild.

truthfully not to sure how it works but if you have the title, and want to reg it, I would think you would get the reg card and still have the title itself. But like I said not sure how that works, never had issues before. What is making you register it and keep the title that you are worried about?

I bought 2 banshees from NY both with just registration and never had any issues getting them switched over. The reg seems to act just like the title whenever I had issues with local law enforcement. I dont know if its just the shee's I bought from NY or what but I never got titles, just the reg card and never had issues. Maybe you can write out a bill of sale and notarize it and obtain a title that way?

cant say much about the flames but you may have a bent needle not allowing it to sit fully into the carb.

correct me if I'm wrong but the pilot jet and air screw has nothing to do with the main jet fuel supply. It controls the start up of your shee. I guess the air screw could effect the main a little but not anything drastic. Mostly for starting your bike is what the pilot and a/f screw controls. your needle position and main is what gives you the power.

40:1 with all my 2t's with a good quality pre-mix oil. Never had any problems. I tend to lean towards Mobile Racing 2t oil, can be had at autozone for a fair price and seems to burn quite clean

normally not that hard, just make sure the rim surface is clean and use some soapy water around the bead. Obviously you will need an air compressor to fill the tire up. SOmetimes it takes little PSI to set the bead other times it takes a lot. When i put my blackwaters on my pred it said dont inflate over 25psi to seat the bead, it took almost 60psi. It also depends on the ply of the tire you are mounting, lower ply's normally seat the beads easier

my guess would be tire pressure or your front end is out of alignment, maybe toe's out to much or opposite and in to much

my dealer use to charge that much for my tire change outs. Went to harbor freight and bout the changer for like $40 and have swapped out many tires with no issues. Takes me about 5min a wheel now. At first it was a PITA because I never change my own tires but now its a snap.

your pilot seems to be in the right spot with a 50, maybe could use a 48, 178-190 can make up for the main, each banshee reacts differently. Then its onto the needle to get the mid-range right. You can hit it dead on first time oor it can take you a while till you find out what works. It can be a bitch

found a dyno graph of some pipes and as you can see the Prolines put out some decent numbers http://www.angelfire.com/extreme2/yambansh...s/pipeinfo.html

I would prefer to stay away from FMF pipes, I have had them on every shee I have owned and just wanted something different, thats how I ended up with my prolines. If worse comes to worse I will hold on to my prolines and just get some porting done to wake them up like they should be.

I took my paddles off so I could role the shee out and just did it by accident cause i was in a rush, they are correct now anyhow, it was a semi old pic. It is kinda hard to find info on these pipes but I do have a link somewhere showing the power they made and they beat out a lot of other top brands, but they are a more top end pipe which kinda isnt wasnt I need for my type of riding. I will see if I can find the link again. There was a set on ebay a little ago where the guy claimed the pipes cost a whole lot of $$$ because of the craftsmanship but I cant guarantee that. If you are interested I will see what i can dig up for more info but these pipes do haul ass on top which has almost gotten me in a trouble a few times.

if the air screw is all the way in bump the pilot jet up a few. Is there air filter nice and clean as well?

i used that stuff on my 22" rims for my truck along with a powerball thingy, made them look better than new. Havent tried em on my pipes jet but thats next.

clip is on the needle itself. Did you pull the slide and pull the spring back then slide the cable out? The needle is normally held down by something, either you need to unscrew the piece out then the needle falls out or its a push and turn type locking devise that holds the needle down. Once the needle is completely out there is a little clip on the top of it which looks like a "C". The positioning on that will tell you what slot it is in. If its a basic needle, there will be 5 slots, the 3rd slot down is the stock slot normally. Hope that makes sense......

I think the avg jetting for that 2into1 is around a 185 main, 50 pilot with needle in the middle clip. Air screw turned out 1.5 turns

I have some graydon proline pipes that I have been considering swapping out. They are a top end pipe for the most part and where I ride I need something a little snappier down low. Just putting it out there is anyone has the idea of swapping pipes. My pipes are in pretty good condition, shine pretty well with no major dings or anything and really set my banshee off, just need something more practical for where I ride. Open to suggestions. Would be nice if someone was local just so they can see the pipes in person themselves but doesn't have to be that way. Possibly t5's, PT's etc. Dont want FMF Can get more pics but heres a quick shot... I can take more pics if needed

what size 2in1 is it and what is your jetting at? Double check all the TORS again as it does sound like that is the cause.

think I got it under control now, looked like the cable was to tight and had no slack in it. It was a also a little twisted up under the tank. I also drop the needle down and leaned out the mid-range which also proved to give snappier response. Havent been able to really rip on it yet but hopefully thats all it was. The reeds were fine as well as I inspected them too.

Yeah I know how the plug chops work but thats at WOT, I'm fine once in the power band and wide open its as soon as I drop a little RPM's the bike just sucks ass. I know banshee's arent meant for lugging around but unless I tach that bitch up to get going it just dog's all through the midrange. Going to try and possibly get the eliminator kit today.

Yeah like I said I'm pretty familiar with jetting bikes. I do plan on going with the TORS removal kit but dont have the $$$ right this second due to losing my job. I noticed the one TORS kit was about $60 which included the idle screws and theres another one that doesn't include them for about half price. Is it really necessary to use the idle screws? I dont think I ever let my shee just sit there and idle ever, anyway to manipulate the idle screw without actually having one?. I'm going to pull the carbs again and look at the reeds, maybe I overlooked something real small or something. As with the jetting, it is also hard to really get an idea of where I should be since no one has my pipes so I dont know if a 320 is enough fuel or not for them with the PODS on. All electric is good as tested with a MM. Anywhere to get the TORS removal kit cheap? Need to save as much $$$ as I can right now.

Right now I have a few things going on which I cant seem to figure out. My motor is stock and I am running graydon proline pipes, +4 timing and PODS. Right now I am at a 320 Main, stock pilot,1 turn out on a/f screw, dyno jet needle on 4th clip and have no mid range response at all. I am in AZ, not sure of elevation but prob close to sea level where I am at. Temps are around a 100 right now with some humidity. Low end seems strong and top end seems to pull hard but once I drop RPM's just a little I lose all momentum. I have changed the needle around several times with no difference I could tell when going up or down on the notches. Messing with the jetting the past couple days I noticed a few things, one my throttle cable is kinda jacked up. The carbs seem to be synched still and moving at the same time but I still think I need a new cable. Yesterday I noticed unburned premix right where the PODS come off at. In the past this was normally because of the reeds but they look fine. I'm going to try and switch the reeds out just to be safe and put in a new cable. I do still have the TORS on it but they are all disconnected. Does this issue sound more of a jetting related issue or possible the combination of the reeds and cable as well? I'm normally good with jetting all my bikes but this one is giving me issue's I cant get by in the midrange. I thought it may have been the pick-up coil gap after the +4 timing but that seems to be ok. I am more concerned now with the unburned fuel that is sitting back near the PODS, mainly the right side if I'm sitting on the bike. Oh and WOT chop looks fine. Just this damn midrange is all out of whack. Never had stock carbs on any of my shees I have owned along with this many problems.