fox_forma

to bad shipping would prob be a ton as I have a full set of black fenders sitting in my garage.

what kind of price you looking to get?

what kind of finish is under the black paint on those pipes? Can the paint be taken off to look chrome or polished again? WHat kind of power was made and any pics of them on the bike?

bump

Sorry man, looking to go to a bigger set-up than 28's for the time being.

wish you were closer, what size fuel tank does that have on it? Every conversion I have seen has a super small tank only good for short distances.

pipes are gone, anything on a swap for carbs with the cool head? Will throw a few $$ if needed

Just sold my set of pipes and need a set that will mix well with a dune port. Possibly some CPI's or something along those lines. Let me know what you have and we can deal, thanks

Just seeing if there is any interest is doing a swap. Would like to trade my coolhead with 18cc domes for a set of decent carbs. Need to run something bigger than stock size so possibly 30mm or 33's. I have majority of the studs for the cool head but I am missing the front 2 longer ones. I can prob find them at my local shop if I have time. I have some extra o-rings to go with it but it will need a new o-ring for the top part of the head. Also have a set of graydon proline pipes would trade for something different, possibly something a little more dune oriented. I will try to get more pics up soon.

stock head has been cut and rechambered, now pushing 163 psi in each cylinder. There was a small issue with my comp tester but straightened that out. Just need to rejet a little richer on top but so far it seems to be running pretty strong.

Talk about being dug up after a while, a year to be close. Def helpful to know your bikes year along with the year of your motor since you never know anymore. Anyone have the 2000-present motor VIN numbers?

This I fully understand, but my gauge has always seemed to be accurate with my other bikes so I dont see why it wouldnt with this one but I guess to be safe I will track down a second gauge to verify.

I didnt plan on having just any machinist do the work, next to my work is a shop that the guy specializes in Banshee's, at least thats all he mostly has in his shop and they aren't your normal stockers so I'm sure he is trust worthy. Obviously I will discuss everything over with him first so it gets done correctly. He's always had parts I needed and has always been helpful in the past so hopefully he comes through on this as well. I just want this damn thing to run.

I was compression testing it before even firing so I knew what fuel to use, didnt want to go in blind with just premium unleaded and have issues. Looks like the head will be dropped off tomorrow for some work. How much should I ask for to get shaved off?

it been a real pain lately to really even wrench on the bike due to several things but figured I would throw it all back together and see what happens. As for the tester itself, I forget the brand but its a fairly good one and it has always been correct on my previous bikes so I don't think the tester is the issue. Both cylinders are reading exactly the same and everything looks good in the cylinders. I also forgot to mention I haven't even ran the bike yet due to the cool head issues and just waiting on other parts so I also assume the rings will seat once ran through for a little. I poured a little 2t oil in the cylinders to try and seal them up for the testing that way but who knows. The cylinders look good and still have the cross hatches in them but measurements haven't been taken. Haven't checked the squish yet, maybe tonight or this weekend if I can make time. I was reading a bunch of other threads and topics on compression and came across a few where some people were in the same situation with new port work and there compression dropped a good amount. If I do stick with the cool head I am selling this one and going with a low profile one which uses the stock studs, I'm tired of changing out those damn studs anymore so its either new head or machine my stocker. Considering a stock bike makes around 125psi compression, with added port work couldn't that bring it down to about where I'm at now with a stock head? I'm about to start over and sell everything and just port my stockers and go from there.

I have a dune port on my cylinders and I was going to combine it with my coolhead that has 18cc domes. Once I put it all together I was running into issues with the coolhead leaking and thus decided to go back to the stock head. Now with the coolhead I had just over 150psi in each cylinder with the dune port along with +4 timing. I thought this was low for 18cc domes but I guess the port work really dropped down the comp readings. With the coolhead leaking and just being a PITA I decided to just bolt up the stock head and now i'm reading around 110psi in each cylinder. Once again I imagine its due to the port work. I would like to get my compression up a little more so should I just go with getting my head milled or possibly go with a newer design cool head that uses the stock studs as mine was the one that was 2 pieces and used the extended studs. Plus I just didnt like the design of that cool head, to many o-rings and issues. Will there be any real big factor running a cool head with smaller domes vs getting the head milled some? Also how much should I mill it?

yamaha has put many useless parts on the shee that cause nothing but issues such as the TORS systems. Almost everyone with it still hooked up has issues. Just because there is a overflow tank doesnt mean much. Not of my dirt bikes have it so why should the shee. Just check the coolant level occasionally and you will be fine. Unless you are jetting way lean that is the only issue I can see the you can loose coolant for the most part

are you looking for another set of pipes or something?

got rid of mine as well, i just kept the hoses in the same place out the rear.

you need 8 studs that are 2 1/4 length and two studs that are 2.5in for the front of the cylinders. Works perfectly fine

I just went through this situation with my studs. I have a thread a few down in this section that show the studs that came with my cool head and was advised to swap them out. Went to the local dealer and bought the proper set only to find out that 2 out of the 10 studs were shot to hell for some odd reason. The dealer didnt have anymore in stock so he was going to order them but I told him to hold off. I went to ACE hardware and figured I would look around and I found the exact same studs, length and all and they were $1.50 a piece. Installed them tonight and everything slid together great and I dont see any issues with them as they look exactly like the stock ones only longer. I forget the exact length so maybe someone here can give that to you. It was a lot better than paying $40 for the set from the dealer. I do know they are M8 x 1.25 pitch, just have to find out the length

got the new dowel pin today at my local shop so thats a plus and the cylinders are back on and good to go. Now to the cool head studs, what is the deal with those? Are they just some studs someone seemed to buy at a hardware store since they are fully threaded and dont look a thing like the stockers? How much does that make a difference?

thanks for the link, the other ones are there, just the one was screwed up for some reason. I have 2 shops right by me within a 2mile radius so hopefully one of them have it but I have a feeling since its not a common part it will have to be ordered and that sucks since its on a $1 part but we'll see I guess

whats the piece actually called so I can hit the dealer after work tomorrow?

yeah I figured it has something to do with lining up the jug with the motor but wasn't sure how important it really is. Not sure how it got bent originally but it was shot so I had to pry it out. And yes it is the piece that slides into the bottom of the cylinder. Each side has one on the inside front of each cylinder.