Mullet Man

i havent heard of that being done. dont know if i would attempt it. but if you have skill and trust your work, anything is possible. me personally, i dont like that idea. it breaks, you get hurt! anyway, the tierods would need to be extended more then just 1", you would want them to be 13-3/8" in length for the tie rod only.

is that what that is on the back of it LOL. the biggest baddest boost bottle known to man!!

wtf, arent you only like 15 or something? nice truck tho. :thumbsup:

i have that exact gas cap for sale, had it on my bike for one ride and do not like it so went back to stock. $15 you pay shipping, new in appearance.

i dont have one but thats the one i will be acquiring. why would you want stainless over this on rocky terrain? and why stainless over aluminum? this one would be better in rock then sand IMO. durablue guard would either bend/flex and return to shape or or break off at the damage area. steel would bend/flex and stay put and could be jambed into your sprocket (possibly causing chain breakage and even worse, possibly case crack because of chain break) or rotor damage. either could really cause that tho but i would think the chain/sprocket would chew thru the urethane piece before it broke off. sand would erode the urethane piece quicker then a steel guard. plus the urethane has a much better price tag. probably just talking out of my ass!

sure it'll work, why wouldnt it? of course its not ideal with stock shocks but its useable, albeit best on a flat track/TT course, or plowing driveways. :biggrin: definately need longer shocks! should be relatively easy to do if you are handy with a MIG and measuring.

saw this add on Craigslist does the rappy have the '02 trans upgrade?

Stephen, if you can guarantee the exle to be straight (not bent at all), i will take it, if the price is right1

you are a little farther east then i am, if you are ok with meeting up somewhere in Dupage county (Wheaton/Warrenville/Naperville etc.etc.), PM me for my cell#. i will be back in the chicago land area Sunday night and all of next week. heading back to Springfield tonite.

i've got one with a piston, not sure what kind of work it needs. doesnt look too bad tho. i am in the Chicago area alot, where are you at? maybe we could meet up.

thats what throws me off. in that microfiche i posted, it shows 3 things on the sprocket side. but i have no idea how the hell that collar could have chewed up the sleeves (too much space between). i will probably just by an aftermarket RAD carrier with bearings and sleeve installed. bolt on and go. only bad thing is its $140. there goes the budget.

right on nunya! in your clymers, does it show a pic of the chain side without the bearing installed? that second pic you posted is the brake side. hoping there is one for the opposite. (i need to get a clymers i know) check this out http://216.37.204.206/wps/Yamaha_OEM/Yamah...;A=228&B=20 it shows 3 pieces on the sprocket side, a seal, a bearing and a collar (i guess thats what is all chewed up on mine). only 2 on the brake side.

does this put it into perspective? FUBAR'd! PICS.... can you see the grooves in these things? LOL these carriers both still have the outer ring of a bearing pressed in them. atleast i think thats what it is. these bearings came out of one carrier, but they were not in the grooved area.

i think i called yesterday about the black rad cover, as long as it isnt painted black, i will take it.

so tonite i took apart both of the swingarms i have for the Blasters. what a PITA, previous owners did no maintenance on these things. one was dry as all get out and the other was full of water. bunch of ass clowns! anyway, i got all the ball bearing bearings out after alot of heat and beating the shit out of them. both of the carriers have the spacer inside of them and both spacers (~4" long spacer inside the carrier) are grooved beyond use on the sprocket side. problem is, i dont see how these could have become grooved like this. seeing as i pulled no bearings off of or around these spacers. there is what appears to be a "bearing" inside the carrier that i have no clue on how to remove it, this is also grooved just like the spacers are but when the spacer is installed, there is a good 1/4" of space between the spacer and this "bearing". i just dont see how either could have become grooved so badly like they are. this bearing that i cant remove from the carrier looks more like a main journal or connecting rod bearing from a car instead of a bearing with actual rolling balls inside of it, like all the others i removed. or its just the outside of a roller bearing that was left behind after they pounded out all the rolling balls and inner race (i think thats what its called). i can not remove the "bearings" i have left in the carriers. i cant even think of anyway a shop could remove these things. one side of it sits up against a lip inside the carrier, rendering it damn near impossible to remove, from what i can see! does it sound like something was missing from both of these? am i just over looking something here? or the previous owners ran into the same issues as me and just pressed the bearings in far enuf to work because they couldnt get these out either. i guess that might explain it. are stock bearings suppose to be pressed in all the way to the "lip" inside the carrier? i'll get pictures of this tomorrow. i dont think these carriers are useable anymore. ! (also rigged up a 'press' using 1/2" drive sockets, 19mm/1-1/8", and a 5" long carriage bolt and nut to remove the swinger pivot bearings, this worked awesome!! slide the bolt thru one side, then put the 19mm socket over it, push the bolt thru the rest of the swinger, install the 1-1/8" socket, drive side up, with a washer on top, then the nut and tighten them down, this forces the 19mm socket into the needle bearings pressing them out and into the 1-1/8" socket. no heat, no hammer! voila home made press lol)

and so it begins....

i have a DG pipe and silencer for a Blaster. pipe and stinger is surface rusted, silencer is pretty good. some elbow grease (wire wheel/cup brush on cordless drill) and high temp paint will make the pipe look nice! $80 shipped couple weeks ago, one that was painted went for $122.50 plus $9 shipping on EBAY here is that completed listing... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BLAS...1QQcmdZViewItem here is another one that you can compare price and condition to mine... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-YSF-...1QQcmdZViewItem pics... http://i13.tinypic.com/2r5gpli.jpg http://i7.tinypic.com/40ng96o.jpg i also have the exhaust flange for the cylinder. let me know

good to know :thumbsup: "theshee" is a great seller, packages extremely well and ships out very quickly!!

thats what i hate about cash prepay. PITA funny tho, never thought of making them figure out the exact dollar vs. gallon amount!

sounds good

http://springfieldil.craigslist.org/mcy/297050876.html $1800, could be a fun bike/project for someone

does he still want to sell it as is, at a price drop obviously? i'm really only interested in the rolling setup anyway. (dont even need wheels/tires, or nerfs or pipe or motor or carb)

they should bolt up. they might need spacers or something for the mounts. (i dunno for sure). but they should bolt up enuf to take some pics, just to get an idea. gopher it. the ones i was looking at dont have the reservoir either. not that big a deal to me

i bought your old cylinders Jered, off theshee, i wonder if i got that head too.... nothing was mentioned about it being shaved. would be good to know. i'll clean it up and bolt it on if so.