Strm Trpr

I'll take the 4 mil crank.

At 2000' and 70*-90* you should be running 25 pilots, needles on middle clip and 270-280 mains. Every 2000' you should drop 1 size on the main. So for 6000' you should run 250-260 mains. Your torn intake manifolds were giving you an air leak and causing you to have to jet fatter than necessary. I have T5's and pods but the rest is stock and at sea level with 70* temps I run 27.5 pilots, needle middle clip and 290 mains. I ran 10 gallons of 91 mixed 40:1 and my plugs looked chocolate brown and dry...

Way too much Carb, but like ^^^ said, you'll lose bottom-end but might gain a little mid and top. Stock carbs w/K&N's, 91 pump, +4* timing, T5's and a HJR Dune Port have been dyno'd just a touch over 65whp. http://www.herrjugsracing.com/files/Alec1.bmp Plus you will also need larger intake manifolds to run the 35mm PWK's.

WTF?

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=155803&view=findpost&p=1354537

A stk cyl stk stroke HJR Dune Port with T5's and stk carbs dyno'd over 65whp on shitty 91 octane. http://www.herrjugsracing.com/files/Alec1.bmp Your 4 mil Dune Port will push 80whp with bigger carbs, tuning and pump gas. You really need to get your bike dyno'd.

This is some other guy's manual method to sync stock Banshee Carbs.

wesw put these videos together with a sync tool that measures vacuum. I use this Tach to find the correct idle rpm of about 1600 with the filters off. Then I use the throttle cable adjuster to set to rpms to around 5500 and do the part throttle sync shown in the part 2 vid. Careful when doing the part throttle sync. I had to use a fan blowing thru the rad to keep it cool. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tachometer-Hour-meter-2-4-Stroke-Small-Engine-Spark-for-Boat-Outboard-Mercury-/140669939343?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c094ee8f&vxp=mtr

With idle screws installed, you really should sync the carbs and set the idle to 1400rpms.

Nice... I'm so surprised they perform so well on your 361cc Dune Port motor. I thought they were designed around the 421cc Cub motors. Another guy has a 385cc 4 mil stk cyl asphalt dragger and he had awesome reviews too. Now if they just didn't cost so damn much...

Hey JD, were your cylinders ported for use with CPI's, or are they RB Racing's Dune Port?

And incorrect Float Height...

I just rebuilt my stockers with the Moose Racing Rebuild Kits from FAST. You'll need two kits. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=188 You might want to order a pair of 27.5 Pilot Jets as well. My 02 did not like to idle with the 25's, pods and T5's at Sea Level. Stepped up to the 27.5's and now shee starts on the first kick every time, does not bogg off idle and is much, much crisper off idle. They also stock the OE Choke Plungers as well if yours is worn out and won't stay pulled out. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=394

Yeah, no kidding, WTF?

Stock stroke dune/play ported cylinders will not work with a 4 mil crank. Find a builder in Canada or northern US to weld your stock crank. Kevin doesn't have to weld it for you.

Yo Possum, you already rockin the Shearer's? How'd they run?

And crank up the A/C for sure!

Oh well...

An adjustable timing plate set to +4* is good for another couple ponies. At what altitude do you ride? 300 mains seems rich. I run 27.5 pilots, 290 mains and the needle on the middle clip at sea level in 65* weather with pod filters. With altitude and hotter air temps you need to jet leaner.

I have basically the same set-up and ran 290's at sea level in 65* weather and after 10 gallons of fuel my plugs were not wet and nice chocolate brown. 80-90* at sea level would be at most a 280 mains. Remember hotter air is less dense which makes the jetting rich, so 300 mains is way rich IMO. Try the 27.5 pilots at 1.5 turns out.

How about you tell us what's on the bike now. If you're totally stock, then I'd start with the following: Used set of either Toomey T5's or Pro Circuit Pipe Set. Send your stock Reed cages to Wildcard Racing. For $50 they will port them and install Boysen Dual Stage Reeds. Get a K&N w/Outerwear in your Airbox and remove the lid. Eliminate TORS, clean out your Carbs and install a new larger main jet that is now needed after installing the pipes. For example, with K&N Pod Filters, my Toomey T5's like 290 main jets at sea level in 65* weather. Get an adjustable timing plate and advance the ignition to +4*. That should blow your hair back for a little while.

Not trying to piss in your pool, but maybe a Dune/Play Ported 421 Serval would have better suited your power goals with your bolt-ons. Last sentence of this page. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=403 The Shearer Pipes aren't helping the lack of bottom-end either. I'm in for this discussion though...

I know you're giving me good advice, and I appreciate it, but right now financially the 385 seems more affordable. A 421 Twister is about double the price of the 385 and that doesn't include the purchase of the Snipers. Plus I still need to buy a +4 gusseted swingarm, having Matt dial in the rear shock, Fireball A-Arms and Elka's, Custom Axis or Race Tech Shocks.

I here what you're saying, but I'm coming from stock motor power levels to a 4 mil 385 that will damn near double the power. I will call Gary and Kevin both and see what they say. Paying for the 4 mil crank now and running ported stock cylinders is about $1200 with two pair of domes for sea level, (Pismo) and 4500ft, (Sand Mountain, NV). I think the HJR 4 mil 385 MX Port will be more than enough to handle right now.

x3 I got mine from FAST as well, and the kit is of the utmost quality.