Strm Trpr

Right on, so basically an asphalt drag racing 385. I'm building a 385 MX Hardcore HJR Motor for mashing the Dunes. I have T5's now but I'd rather get the cylinders ported for Snipers than some old school T5's. And a 421 Twister will be the motor I go to once I out grow the 385. Do you feel the Snipers would accentuate a 4 mil 385 MX Port?

Use photobucket and copy the IMG Code and paste the IMG Code links in your thread.

Who bored your carbs?

You sir, are correct.

I have a BNIB set of VF3's... I'll let'em go, whatchu got?

Just PM'd you.

What rider weight are these set-up for? Thinking about buying the whole set-up off you, and I'll offer more than $1k.

I''l paypal you $500 for the rear shock and link right now.

That's what I was thinking too.

To say the least... What a fuggin Beast!

You need to disconnect the TORS Brain Box. When sitting on your bike, it's just under the front left mount of the fuel tank.

Do you have an example of this "Angle Gauge"?

What bore diameter are your stock cylinders?

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? T5's 2) What type of airfilter do you have? Mull Engineering Venturi Intake Kit, w/8" K&N's and Outer Wears. 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) Sea Level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 25's 6) What size main jets are you using? 290's 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60* - 65* 8) Do you have a port job? No 9) What kind of carbs? Stock Mikuni's 10) What size carbs? 26mm

Just a heads up... A 4mil w/64mm slugs is 373cc's. A 4mil w/65mm slugs is 385cc's. A 4mil w/66mm slugs is 397cc's. Each millimeter in bore diameter and a 4mil crank increases displacement by 12cc's.

I just filled my new tuff jug with 50/50 of 91 and 100. Heading to Pismo tomorrow. Can't wait to see my buddies' reactions to the new jug.

I know this is old, but I've got to ask. My engine builder is telling me to remove the Toomey Needles and run the stock needles in the middle groove on my otherwise stock motor except for pods and T5's. I only have the needles that came in the Moose Racing Carb Rebuild Kit. What are you thoughts on these needles? Are they just as good as stock? Also, the previous owner really tore up the drain screws, are there a set in the Rebuild Kit? Thanks in advance.

Right on, I'll be watching your thread. It'll be informative for all of us.

I know this is old as dirt, but what happened to this motor? Are those tiny specks of vaporized aluminum on the electrode straps?

You're leaving power on the table with the rich jetting and your pre-mix is way to rich for that oil. This means you have less fuel parts per million and you have to jet fat to try and make it up. Click ---> http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/tdr.aspx scroll down to "Applications", second paragraph. Says, "In pre-mix applications, DOMINATOR delivers outstanding protection at 50:1 pre-mix ratios (2.6 oz. oil per U.S. gallon of gas). That will give you more Fuel parts per million and you won't have to Jet so Fat. I recommend draining all of your fuel and mixing a fresh batch at 50:1, which is 13oz to 5 gallons of premium pump gas. Leave your jetting as it is right now, (27.5 pilots, 320 mains and needle clip in 2nd groove from pointy end). Go do a perfect plug chop with a fresh set of B8ES' gapped to .028" and report back. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/plugchop.html I bet it's rich as all get out now.

I second that. Toomey T5's with stock carbs and the Toomey 1 into 2 Uni Filter Intake calls for 280 mains at sea level and 270 mains after 2000ft and 260 mains after 4000ft. What's your altitude and average temperature? What pilot jet and needles are in the carbs?

This link gives detailed instructions on how to properly measure squish. http://www.rb-designs.com/squish-band-test.htm

If you want, JL Engineering rechromes pipes.

Here you go. http://www.rb-designs.com/squish-band-test.htm

What a f'ing joke!