Strm Trpr

You're better off putting that shit on eGay...

Looks good. Steering Stems can be modded longer if you can weld. What A Arms are those? Matching front Bajas would be sick, and PC them all Satin Black. Do you have a link on that Scott Steering Stabilizer?

But how fat is the ring? 2mm or. 080" thk is all. You say the needle clip is on the 4th groove (richer), where is clip with respect to the middle groove? Pulling the choke out 1 click and the motor feels better in the mid-range would indicate shee needs more fuel, not less.

What size are the rear tires?

Possum, Sunday the 3rd came and went. It's now the 13th. You have any feedback on the Shearers vs T5's?

Are the rear tires 18's?

It'll allow more air into the motor and help correct your rich condition.

Banshees come stock with 200 mains and 25's pilots. Put the needle in the middle groove. Air Screws at 1.5 turns out from closed. Put new B8ES plugs in it gapped to .028". Make sure the carb slides are installed correctly. The left slide will have a thin groove running vertically with a small dot up and just to the left of the groove. The right slide will have the small dot opposite the vertical groove. It's easy to mix the slides up and still align the grooves of the slides to the tabs in the carb bodies. With the motor off and the throttle pinned WOT, you should be able to see the small dots thru the little round windows on the right side of the carb bodies. Pull the airbox lid off and run it. If it still runs like ass put the needle clip in the 4th groove from the pointed end. But my money is on reversed slides...

Hey man WTF, you've been holding out on us. Where are the rest of those pics? She must be a tiny chick to be able to perch herself up the like that. LOL

Who are you going to have more your stock carbs? It sounds easy enough to bore carbs, but it's also easy to destroy your carbs. I'd let someone with with years of experience bore my carbs. http://www.rb-designs.com/banshee-carb.htm

Holy shit Nick, those look Fuckin great!!! Are those the Raptor 660 IMS Foot Pegs?

Idling the motor until it runs out of fuel is not going to hurt anything. Ever ride off and forget to turn your fuel on? I thought so. By emptying the float bowls before storing the bike you remove unwanted wear on the needle valve viton tip.

There you have it. If DDU ran 27.5s and 340s at sea level then you know you'll be fat and can work down. You'll probably end up on 27.5s and 310s-320s due to your elevation of 5000'. Lean out one size main jet for every 2000' of elevation. Which flavor Techniplate are you mixing? Find it and mix it accordingly... http://www.klotzlube.com/Tech_Sheets.asp

Run the stock carbs for now. Rebuild them, do a TORS Elimination get a sync tool from FAST and a cheap Tach from eBay. Why are you running so much oil in the pre-mix? The more ppm, (parts per million) of oil you have in your pre-mix the less fuel you have to burn. You should be fine with 40:1, that's 16oz or 1 pint to 5 gallons of fuel. Speaking of fuel, what octane are you running. I would imagine #30 pilots, 340 mains and stock needles, middle clip. Why didn't you ask Jeff at FAST about carbs and jetting?

Stock Pipes? Reed Cages do not need rejetting. Call Fast and ask Jeff if reed cages require rejetting. While you're on the phone with Jeff, order two Moose Racing Carb Rebuild Kits, a Carb Sync Tool and buy the adapter for stock carbs. You should remove and completely disassemble one carb at a time. With Carb Cleaner thoroughly clean the carbs and use an old toothbrush to clean the exterior body of the carbs. Use the carb cleaner straw and blow out all orifices. Follow up by washing with soap and water. Then blast the carbs dry and all orifices with an air compressor blow gun. Replace the following components with the Moose Racing Kit: #200 Main Jets and Gold Washer #25 Pilots Jets Air Jets Air Screws w/O-Rings and Springs I'd replace the needle and clip with the ones from the Moose Racing Kit. Fuel Needle and Seat Assembly Verify floats actually float. Some have developed holes and allow fuel to leak inside. You can test this by submerging the floats in fuel and watching for bubbles, then shake the float and listen for sloshing. Then using calipers measure the float height to be 21mm or ~.83". Replace the gasket... and I like to replace the POS phillips head screws with allen screws. Verify the choke tube is in good shape, or buy some 3/16" ID fuel line and make a new one. There are some good parts on these pages. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=CARBS/%20INTAKES&offset=0

Very well, sounds like you have it all figured out. At the power levels you're talking about, (60-65whp) and pushing the limits of 93 octane like you plan to, if you don't weld the crankshaft and you experience any detonation at high rpm, that crankshaft will not last long and it will come apart and usually very catastrophically. Instead of spending about $100 to have the crank trued and welded, new gaskets, seals and shipping back and forth, you'll more than likely need a whole Banshee engine when the crankshaft comes apart between your knees...

Call Jeff at FAST, Kevin at HJR, Dave at Noss Machine, or any site sponsor for that matter. Tell them what you told us and they will cut you domes for your exact set-up. I have a Black Noss Machine HJR Head... It's a work of art. Here's the Noss Machine Head and Dome/Elevation Chart at the bottom. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm

Most people run CEL needles. The 48 pilots sound good. The 160 mains might be too big. I would think 150's, but see what Jeff says. FAST might even have the boots you need for your intakes too. Remember, jetting is affected by humidity and air temp which when jetted correctly should be tunable by the air screw. Elevation changes of 2000ft or more will always be the biggest factor in jetting. Get the Sync Tool too!

Get the air leaks sorted first. What elevation and temps do you ride at? Rebuild the carbs and do a TORS Elimination, if not already done. Get a carb sync tool from FAST and a cheap ebay tachometer. Run B8ES plugs gapped to .028". Jetting at Sea Level for Toomey T5's with the lid off is 25 pilots, needle middle clip, 270 mains. I have pods and run 27.5 pilots, middle clip and 290's in 70* weather at the Ocean.

Ge that throttle cable sorted out. Without syncing the carbs your banshee will run sub-par... guaranteed. I have a brand new timing plate for sale. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=75 Just like the one above. $45 shipped and it's yours.

If you do choose to run the 35 PWK's, you better get yourself versed on tuning. Get a carb sync tool from FAST and a cheap ebay tachometer. Open up those 35's and find out what jets and needles you have in there already. Do you have an intake manifold to run the 35's?

Sounds like you have a solid plan. Get yourself two Moose Racing Carb Rebuild kits. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=188 Make sure the floats themselves actually float and verify they are set to 21mm float height. I've heard of them actually leaking and filling with fuel. Get yourself a Carb Sync Tool from FAST and a cheap eBay tachometer to set your idle and part throttle carb sync. Below is a link to a tread with vids on syncing and the type of Tach I use to tune. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=155803&view=findpost&p=1354537 Do not, I repeat, do not skimp on the following: If you're shooting for the most compression and timing you can run on 93 octane, you better pull the crank out and send it to a site sponsor and have them inspect it and true and weld it. If not, I can almost guarantee the crank will separate and blow the bottom-end up due to the increased compression, timing and your porting! ^^^ This is the most important part of my advice to you! A complete gasket kit is only $60. Get yourself a Clymers Manual too. And here's a nice little walk-through on the Banshee's Bottom-End Assembly. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=140912 And as far as jetting goes, if you do all that you said in your 1st post, I'd start with 30 Pilots, 360 Mains and the needle on the 2nd clip up from the pointed end. That is a substantial amount of fueling and will require you to tune it. Get a Sync Tool from FAST http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 and that Tachometer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tachometer-Hour-meter-2-4-Stroke-Small-Engine-Spark-for-Boat-Outboard-Mercury-/140669939343?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item20c094ee8f&vxp=mtr

The new intakes should clear that up for you. Do you still have the TORS on the stock carbs? Syncing the carbs helps a ton with how crisp the motor runs too. Also an adjustable timing plate set to +4* will give you the edge over your buddy.

Yeah, I have the Toomey Sparky's on my pipes now and I'm trying to find stinger tips.

You want to sell me your stinger tips? http://174.132.166.125/~toomey/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=14&Itemid=3