SAVAGE420

Who's got some used billet bowls for me with a threaded brass barb in them each. Prefer a machined finish but im not picky, same goes for the threaded brass barbs, not picky if there installed on them or not also. Cash or always got shit to trade also. Hook up!

Note the filled-in hole on the left side of the carburetor, next to the fuel inlet. It is NOT drilled OR tapped. Yet. It soon will be. DO NOT mistakenly drill out the similar hole on the opposite side of the carburetor. It is factory-threaded, but the idle screw won't work if put in on this side of the carb. Using a grinding burr (shown here) or a hand file, you'll need to remove the taper from the lip of the un-tapped hole on the carburetor. This is done to ensure that the lock nut for the idle screw has a flat surface on which to seat. Here's the intended result. One clean and very flat flange. Work slowly, and be careful if you're using an air tool. The grinding burr will cut aggressively, and it is easy to take off too much aluminum. Also, DO NOT use a mounted stone when grinding aluminum. The aluminum will load up on the stone and may cause it to fly apart. Once you have the flange ground down, it is time to use the drill bit supplied with the idle screw kit (drill bit (#6) . Shove a rag down the venturi of the carburetor to help keep metal shavings out. Using a drill press (or a very steady hand) drill all the way through the hole, until the drill bit emerges into the throat of the carburetor. Again, work slowly and patiently. A vise really helps here too. Now that you have a neat hole in the side of your carburetor, it is time to thread it. Using the thread tap (6mm x .75mm) supplied in the idle kit (and some lubricant), thread the tap into the hole and spin it in a half turn and out a half turn in another half then out and so on until she is through. Make sure to cut new threads all the way into the throat of the carburetor. It is a good idea to check for burrs after you get done, especially inside the carb. You don't want the throttle slide getting stuck on a rough edge and you going full throttle uncontrollably into a tree while your friends point and laugh at you right??? Ah,no you dont!!! Almost done, Just blow out any aluminum shavings, thread the idle screw into the fresh hole. You're done with the hardest part. Here's the end result. The idle speed will have to be set once you get the carburetor back on the quad and the engine warmed up. Turn the screw to the proper setting and jam it in place with the lock nut. Just make sure to get ALL pieces of aluminum out of the carburetor before re-installing it. You don't want any metal shavings getting into the crankcase. Now go tear shit up!!!

Just curious to why you want to go 2-1.

Update? Works good still?

You ran the banshee spindles with it though, of course it would really suck.

Why two topics for the same thing?

Dat's only in da moanin, you posed to be up cookin breakfast or sumpin by den, so dat's like an alarm clock, whoo whooooooo!!!!

That was some DEEP diggings Jay!

What motor is this about? What are you wanting and what does yours check out at right now? Details please. They should be basically spot on with one an other or there is an underlying issue. I just buttoned my motor up yesterday and with different domes also. Squish checked out at .042.

Start the bike and ride it around for like 10 mins. Then undo the 17mm nut on the very bottom of the lower case in the middle. Let it fully drain into a pan. Put the bolt back in (don' t over tighten it and strip the case threads) and snug it up! Then put it 1.5 liters of the oil of your choice in with a funnel. 10w30, ATF Type F, Bel-ray gear saver 80W and so on. Pick something and stick with it! Check your trans dip stick after your done putting the oil in and top up if needed. Put the dip stick back in and ride away and forgetaboutit !!!

Both great pipes. I say go for the T5's for what your planing to do. Ive run them in the past and there a great pipe on a ported motor.

Correct!

You're S.O.L with a bigger tank and full bores unless you cut then up a bunch (will look gay). There is a pic on here of some black full bores with an 5.6 IMS tank. I run One piece Laker plastic and im not cutting up my experience plastic to fit a bigger tank. But the idea of an extra reserve tank some place would be a good idea, on sleds we run a nitrous bottle or and extra fuel tank inside the seat. When i go on pretty long rides and my 4x4 buds with racks arnt there to carry my fuel, wobbly pops and food, i fill up two 1L bottles of extra fuel and put them in my back pack for the lil extra range to get back home.

Thats the opposite of what one wants on anything. You want the a-arms as close as possible on the frame so the Geo is not thrown out the window with nasty bump steer and will also put your shock angle way off and lower it and all that jazz. That kit moves them outwards and is also more stuff to end up breaking. Look at the 250r or any of the 450's out there or even rails, the a-arms are very close together bolted to the frame with a bit of rake also. Theres a few threads on this also on here awhile back with some discussion also..

YES that is the CHOKE TUBE like this on stock banshee Mikuni carbs. Not needed for you now.

Nope. Each have there own separate choke.

Have the same type of look as the 67 RS Camaro wheels.

I thought you said you sold this stuff on CL for $70 last week. Weird!!!

If you have both sizes on hand, i would try the 270's first and go from there.

Good tip too man. I would also like to add, only adjust it while in any gear and Not neutral.

Pop the bowl off and unscrew the mains and tell me the numbers stamped on it. Sounds like your 1-2 sizes too big. 10 min job.

Shearer !

Good to see you back in the game Tyler. Also good to see you didn't sell the green machine.

There really cheap brand new. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=75 Or for free, you can modify your stock plate to get +4 or less in a few minutes with a die grinder or dremel.