SAVAGE420

Just curious, but are you 100% sure you have the right arm on the right side?

Call Burgard up and snag some from them. I know there a lil larger then regular thats why the spindles need reaming with there arms. Think there 16mm. Thats your best bet IMO There actually a pretty good chromoly arm for a good price.

Buy it nagger.

Looks good man.

Nope. Too long and the lower shock is a fork and the banshee one is an eye.

He might be short, he might look and talk funny but beetlejuice comes through again with some banshee parts.

WHAT?

Any local auto parts store near you will have one. Or borrow one from a friend . Prices range from $20-$400 or so for a one.

Cant see, chop it and push the macro button on your cam.

Did you do a compression test to 100% confirm the compression in both cylinders? Listening and feeling wont tell you the compression.

I bought my gripper seat cover from there booth at Sandfest at coos bay a few years ago. They were great to talk to in person, scored me a great deal, and the cover still looks new to this day. Just my experience. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&module=images&section=viewimage&img=3261

First i would do a quick compression test on both cylinders and see what the good/bad word is. The trans takes 1.5L of oil. Everyone has a brand or type they like. I use Belray gear saver 80W, some guys use ATF type f and some other stuff also. For the rad, just go get some premixed 50/50 prestone stuff from auto zone or napa or any place like that and fill the rad right up, leave the cap off and fire it, rev it a lil bit and top it up if needed, then throw the cap on. I would change the plugs for sure, hell why not. Grab some BR8ES plugs and throw them in. The line sounds like the overflow line for the carb, you can put on back on it and run it the same way the other carb is.

Love it!!!

Looks good. Paint the panties pink.

You can do the mag side without splitting if your in a bind and want to ride on a trip away from home. Then split it and do it properly when you get home. The other side you can not do without splitting. So go do a leak down and confirm that it is in fact leaking and take the very little time it takes to split the case and get it done. I don't know why people worry or think its a big job when its totally not, all you need are simple hand tools and an hour or two. Basically a 12mm wrench, a flywheel puller, 32mm socket a couple more sockets and thats it and have at it! If you start right now you will be done before dinner time. For sure replace both crank seals though when you take apart, and the other ones if you want also if they have not been replaced in a while. So easy a cave man can do it. No lie!

Image sub forum.

I haven't, but i use the 50 watt bulbs and a bigger stator. There pretty damn bright for what i need anyways. But get a hold of tidos76 on here, he has done it and he messes with all sorts of led's and what not. Theres a thread where he posted pics awhile back about the headlights he did.

There are a few threads about these awhile back with some people that have used them here. Ive always run Wiseco in all my stuff for years, never really had any problems with them thats why i personalty keep using them. I don't mine paying a lil extra for things that ive had good luck with! The quote on the site is jibberish

Love my shorty's.

I bid $1 bob.

The stock skid is pretty weak. But i don't see why you couldn't just weld a 1/4" thick piece to the stocker though. Some of my 4x4 buds make there own skids outa puck board and that shit is awesome and really strong. I personally use all the pro Armour plates, a-arms, belly, rear skid and side frames. Nice and thick and do there job well.

Good luck man.

I WISH i could go.