SAVAGE420

Haha which and when.

Heim joints don't for the most part use covers much if ever. I prefer ball joints myself.

I bid $1 bob.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=137919

You will have more then enough length.

Bum porting 101.

The blaster carb is the exact same thing as the banshee stock one, just there is only one. You will kick your own ass after you see that it's so easy a cave man can do it. If you got a question once your in, holler back. But just pay attention to whats going on and you will be fine. Read this over also you will need it later, and save it too. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html If you really need pics i will throw some up after dinner. Trying to hold down the couch and BBQ right now

Take ONE carb apart at a time completely, spray them down with carb cleaner, dry them with compressed air, get into every circuit and passage way and make sure theres nothing blocking fuel/air flow. Assemble as was = done. Only take ONE carb apart at a time your first go around. You don't want to mix the slides or bowls up, make sure the slides go in the right way also when reassembled. (cut outs facing the filters) Very very simple.

The worst part about the job is grinding the rivets from the stock basket so you can get the gear off of it. I used an air powered die grinder with an 80 grit 3 inch Rol lock disc. You could use a small cut off wheel also. Then it just screws onto the billet basket, use lock tight on the screws (red) and don't forget to order the cushions if they aren't included with the basket. After that just install everything as normal and adjust the clutch also. An impact wrench helps when removing the clutch nut. It's 32mm. Not a bad job though. Real easy to do. A 2/10 on the (know what your doing scale) I run the Magnum Billet Basket from Jeff (F.A.S.T) on here. Very nice piece for cheap. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=39

X2 Mines been ripping hard for a couple years now!!!

Looks good Phil, but you know you won't ride it!!!

Performance and tunability yes!

That's kinda shady business practices don't you think?

Says they sold on ebay. Whats the deal

Be 19 tomorrow, legal age to drink here finally.

I run a Magnum billet basket, very nice piece at a great price, I use it with Jeff's clutch, pancake bearing and a Gigot undercover slingshot. Never had a lick of problems in a few seasons now. Had my motor apart a few weeks ago and not even a sign of wear on the basket what so ever. Lots of people run them and ive never heard of any of them breaking or a had a problem with one.

Im pretty sure part of the lock washer for the eccentric screw/nut holds that shaft in also a bit as theres 2 tabs on it. Im certain your fine there. Its cant come out very far anyways unless your cases are apart. I would leave springs as is. What ones are they Stock?

Do it as said above by RadarRacing. But also read this its written very well and explains in detail with pics. Its VERY easy and quick to do. Have fun. Lets us know! http://www.allthingsmoto.com/forums/f-15/how-set-your-motorcycle-carburetor-float-level-more-commentary-13608/

Adjust the float hight in 10 seconds. Problem solved. Need to be 16MM. Use your calipers to measure the hight, then rock out!

Well as we all know any vibrations to the hands sucks big time when riding a long time. So i was out in the shop thinking about ideas to do the other day. Decided to try some silicone in my bars. WAY less vibes to your hand, No joke ether. 100% silicone with a caulking gun. Stand the bars up straight and fill em up. You have to go slow and do some from each side to ensure that you get it as evenly dispersed as possible. I use the Pro Taper Contours (1-1/8) bars. Think about this for a second, take your bars off and hit them on the ground holding the end and see how it feels. Now fill them up with 100% silicone and let set for the day, now bang them on the ground the same way, you will say wow and scratch your head with a lil grin. Im always thinking of cheap ways to make things better or smoother. With that being said, having an Anti Vibe Stem, Precision's Shock & Vibe Handlebar Clamp, the new ATV Four Play’s Soft Bars or Fasst Flexx Bars will be alot better BUT, how can you go wrong for 2 bux and a few minutes of time right? Even better if you have them all installed also. Ive only tried aluminum bars, so don't know if it would make as big of difference using steel bars. Maybe someone can try them as ive never had steel bars. This is a very simple and affordable mod to make to your bars. If you use 100% silicone, it is Much lighter than siding door caulk etc. Just grab a seat and go slow. It should take you 5-10 minutes. Put it in each side and then let your bars set for a day and mount them up. I've ridden twice since and I swear to you guys/gals, I feel a very noticable difference in fatigue. Best $2 I've spent on the banshee yet. Im going to do My RM later also. From track, trail, drag and play bikes, i think everyone can benefit from less vibrations being transfered to the body. Less vibes to the hands on long rides is a MAJOR + in my book. To anyone that try's it let me know what you think. All i gotta say is don't knock it before you try it.