SAVAGE420

Sweet thats sorta what i figured just wasn't 100%. I like my hole

Every time i crack my cases i have always wondered what this hole was for in the upper case above the kicker shaft hole. I mean nothing goes there, maybe could be a oil passage hole? Or was it needed when they were machined? Just seems useless to me is all.

Dumb ass.

I think the problem for the most part is that the "REPLY" button beside the "MULTI QUOTE" button at the bottom of peoples posts are actually to Quote that persons post and the "ADD REPLY" button at the very bottom of the page is really the normal reply button. People get them confused, i see it all the time. Some people just see "reply" and do not know that it will quote that persons post/pics and what not and click it like nobody's business. Wasn't like that on the old forum but it changed to how it is now, i don't really care and it works for me, but some people just don't know is all. Would be cool to see it changed, so people would understand what the difference is and everything unneeded wouldn't be quoted all the time. An idea. My 2 cents.

Get him to port them also, you will NOT regret it for one second, totally new found power.

Any shop local to you. Tate is still doing work on the side i think also.

Almost sounds like a stator issue to me. What brand is it and have you testing it yet and everything else electrical also? Check the reeds for cracks chips or sitting off the cages? Do a pressure test yet? Slides in the proper side of the carbs? Just throwing some ideas out there.

Well tell your friend he is alright. Your friend on here? By the way welcome, post up some pics of your bike.

I had Jeff do a bore/hone and dune port on my cyls awhile back. Top notch work, good after service and all that jazz. You will pay shipping back to you as always anywhere. Worth every penny, now you can sleep at night knowing your shit will be done 100% right.

Damn, way to rub it in huh Have a good one, take some pics and vids.

Thats ones that come with Jeff's kit.

Nope no choke tube on these like the stock 26's use. So you put it away for the season or you still riding? Should meet up for a ride at some pit or what not before the snow flies

Weisco http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/

Where. I find that kinda annoying also, i just fix them if i see and what not.

You can just go ahead and buy another one exact the same and grab some dual intakes for 33-35's and rock out. I assume its a standard Keihin PWK 35 correct? Or is it the airstriker 35? Ether way it doesn't matter, just make sure there the same as one another.

Your talking about the metal cross over tube right? If so, then you can put a bead of silicone around the joints then clamp it tight if you like. Just make sure the rubber on your intakes are not cracked is all.

Yes you can trim lightly. No need for the spray, but it wont hurt if you do.

Welcome to the site dude. Good to see yet another northern dude on here. By the way just to let you know, but the Eskimos and Oilers suck!

I "lightly" coat my clutch and water pump gaskets with grease. Makes it so you can reuse them over and over again for years. This way when you take the cover off it wont stick and rip when you try and take them off. Mine have been in forever and i have taken my motor apart numerous times with the same ones in and there perfectly fine. Just a tip.

I use Jeffs clutch (F.A.S.T), magnum billet basket and a Gigot undercover slingshot. This setup works great together for me and i mostly ride open trails and logging roads in the mountains with some dunes on the side. In my opinion, it's bulletproof for what i have and all at a fair price. Clutch pull is fine and i use a shorty ASV.

1/2" impact set full out and zip-zap it off in 1 second or your money back guarantee.

Stop!! Do not run it any more like this. Did you re torque the cyl and head nuts a couple times after it was run for a lil bit? They will loosen up a bit sometimes after it's apart and need to be re torqued a couple times till everything settles in. Go re tighten them to see if they were loose and check back in here with whats up then we'll go from there.

Where exactly is it leaking? Take a CLEAR up close pic with the macro button pushed.

Note the filled-in hole on the left side of the carburetor, next to the fuel inlet. It is NOT drilled OR tapped. Yet. It soon will be. DO NOT mistakenly drill out the similar hole on the opposite side of the carburetor. It is factory-threaded, but the idle screw won't work if put in on this side of the carb. Using a grinding burr (shown here) or a hand file, you'll need to remove the taper from the lip of the un-tapped hole on the carburetor. This is done to ensure that the lock nut for the idle screw has a flat surface on which to seat. Here's the intended result. One clean and very flat flange. Work slowly, and be careful if you're using an air tool. The grinding burr will cut aggressively, and it is easy to take off too much aluminum. Also, DO NOT use a mounted stone when grinding aluminum. The aluminum will load up on the stone and may cause it to fly apart. Once you have the flange ground down, it is time to use the drill bit supplied with the idle screw kit (drill bit (#6) . Shove a rag down the venturi of the carburetor to help keep metal shavings out. Using a drill press (or a very steady hand) drill all the way through the hole, until the drill bit emerges into the throat of the carburetor. Again, work slowly and patiently. A vise really helps here too. Now that you have a neat hole in the side of your carburetor, it is time to thread it. Using the thread tap (6mm x .75mm) supplied in the idle kit (and some lubricant), thread the tap into the hole and spin it in a half turn and out a half turn in another half then out and so on until she is through. Make sure to cut new threads all the way into the throat of the carburetor. It is a good idea to check for burrs after you get done, especially inside the carb. You don't want the throttle slide getting stuck on a rough edge and you going full throttle uncontrollably into a tree while your friends point and laugh at you right??? Ah,no you dont!!! Almost done, Just blow out any aluminum shavings, thread the idle screw into the fresh hole. You're done with the hardest part. Here's the end result. The idle speed will have to be set once you get the carburetor back on the quad and the engine warmed up. Turn the screw to the proper setting and jam it in place with the lock nut. Just make sure to get ALL pieces of aluminum out of the carburetor before re-installing it. You don't want any metal shavings getting into the crankcase. Now go tear shit up!!!