SAVAGE420

Why do you want the new ones? Old Originals or nothin. Not sure what the ones in the for sale are , haven't seen a pic yet. I love my oldies but goodies.

LOL............Looks good tyler, nice much needed update right there.

Just go to your local auto parts store and get a couple inches of black fuel line in the similar size for like $2 and clamp it in and what not. Good to go.

All i gotta say is hell yeah this new Carbon skin is wicked. 100X better then the white and it also seems to have most of all the bugs worked (still a couple) out and how the banners are now up top and even at the bottom and shit like that. Plus i like how things are in general changed around a lil bit now also and what not... Thanx. For those who dont know how to switch to the new Carbon skin, well go to the bottom of the forum page or this page and on the left where it says "Banshee hq" in the box, click that then switch to Carbon.

If it were me, i would atleast take the head off and get some premix oil you use, and when the pistons are down as low as they can go(BDC) coat the cyl walls a lil with the oil with your finger. Then move the kicker a few times slowly up and down so it gets it in the rings and what not and you will be fine IMO. Mabey oil it like this 2 times. wont hurt anything

Grab them if you want man. I love my old original set in mint shape i picked up this summer. Just what clamps do you use now? The stinger tubes are alot larger on the old ones. I run the cascade ones that i modified just a lil bit and they seal up really nice. New ones have the smaller dia stingers and looks like diff silencers and the gauge of metal they use now is not at thick and heavy duty as the old set like the ones i scored. You can see what mine look like in my gallery on here. What do you use now for pipes? IMO they would suck balls on no porting. dune ported and up is where they shine ive personally found out when switching over from T5's. Good power over the T5's big time all around.

I just added to my original post. anywhere from .040-.050 is good. Watch the vid though.

Always stick the solder in from side to side (over the piston pin on both sides on the piston on both pistons) in the cyls and not front to back (Intake Exhaust ports) check both sides. Heres a lil vid, it will show you all you need to know. Takes 15 mins to do both sides of both pistons if that. If you don't measure side to side and just stick the solder in there anywhere up against the cyl wall it will give an inaccurate reading, as the piston rocks back and forth ever so little. I got mine at .042

Check your local craigslist or craigs-helper

X2 , love mine. + there a site sponsor here. 10% off at least it was when i got mine while back.

http://photobucket.com/

But why when Andy from M&Matv above is a site sponsor and has GREAT prices and services. My I try and use site sponsors as much as i can.

Yup i agree with Pete, i scored an original old set in really great shape this summer. I love them for what i do. Plus there rare, look mean and nasty, no other pipes look like them and they rip and sound killer. Im happy. But go with what you like im just stating my opinion.

Well by the sounds of where and what type of riding you do. I would do a 4mil stock cyl with a dune port. Good bang for your buck and not really expensive. Pretty good power from mid-top. No such thing as a 62mm cub though. 68mm and up.

X2 On what duneman said. If the guy thinks he can see if there perfectly round with his eyes only well then he is full of shit or super man.

Do a plug chop and see what it tells you. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Grab a couple sizes smaller mains. Start with the 135's if the plug chop is rich and go from there.

Why not just run a X-Ring and never have to lube it ever.... The Sidewinder Gold X-ring i run doesn't need to be lubed Ever.

I use nothing. No need to on mine.

Of course you can. Just if there +2+1 or +3+1 arms, the shocks are going to be quite a bit more plush and maybe sag down a lil. But it will work for the time being.

Are your tors hooked up? If so unhook it all anyways. So unplug them both (wires from the top of them) Unplug the lil black box under the tank on the left side then unbolt it and smash it on the ground. Unplug or cut out the wires from your throttle housing. Cut out the wires from your "E" brake. Done. See if thats your prop......

What type of riding do you do? Whats your plans for engine mods? What pipes do you run now?

No kidding. Thats what ive been trying to tell people. But some just wont listen and what not. Oh well, it's not my motor running like shit then melting down

Only thing they do is if you have larger carbs. It moves them back just enough so that the left carb nut on the bottom of the bowl does not hit the clutch actuator arm. Thats it. I run them but i have 30mm carbs and it used to hit that arm a bit. No gain in power what so ever. Even if someone says there is, its proly .00001HP gain For stock carbs there not needed!

Ok i just sent the pics to you PM box. Go check. Just didnt want to clutter this up here with a bunch of pics.

http://photobucket.com/