SAVAGE420

Ok to make it simple for you, run it at 40:1. For every 20 liters of gas, use a half bottle of oil thats 500ML (half bottle) So for every liter of oil you can mix up 40Liters of gas. Sound good. Yup

So where they mount to the frame up front the nut broke off? What nut? Post up some pics of what your talking about when you get a chance. Make sure your careful drilling through the peg and mount though, doesn't have to be a big diameter bolt but a decent size so it don't shear off. Throw up pics when you can. Do you need to see how mine are?

No your not stupid man, you just don't understand it yet. Its pretty easy though and with that link i gave you above makes it even easier. So what gas/oil ratio do you want to run? But most important what oil are you running, tell me the brand? Make a big diff in what ratio you want to run. Did you look at that link above? Like i said above, i run Amsoil Interceptor (Full synthetic oil) at 50:1. So for ever 5 liters of gas i have i put in 100 milliliters of oil. Or for every US gallon of gas i stick in 2.5 ounces of oil. That is for a 50:1 gas/oil ratio. So i do 50 Liters of gas per liter of oil. Thats 50:1 Just look at the link i posted in my above post. You need to buy one of these it seams. There cheep. http://www.faster-motocross.com/ratio-rite-cup.html

Simple to put them on. I have the same ones just not black. Do you have them mounted up already? Ok you bolt the new black peg mounts in place of the old pegs on both sides leave the bolts a lil loose so you can still move them around until there all on. Then slip but nerfs on and bolt down both sides up front near the motor mount. Then now that the front is tight, well then tighten up both big bolts to the frame on both sides TIGHT!!! Then if you want to make them snug/solid as hell like mine and what the pros do also, is drill straight through between the pegs and the peg mount vertically up and down then put a bolt and washer from the top and a lock washer and nut on the bottom. This way it makes at very solid and no vibes what so ever. It just ties it all together properly and nice Understand all that? Where are you having problems? If you really need pics i can post how mine are for you.

Get a K/N drop in filter with teh billet plate that seals it to teh box with an o-ring, stikck an outerwear on it. Then get the K/N lid and get the outerwear for that also. Kinda over kill but water wont get in unless you take your bike swimming. I run some wet trails sometimes and i just run the air box and k/n billet adapter plate and an outie. Its fine like that...i go around the deep puddles though

Did you do a leak down test at all? IMO your pretty damn lean on your mains man. 290's and shearers and pods at 1250ft and cold out is LEAN. Throw some 330-340's or so in there and do a Proper plug chop NOT a random plug check. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html <<< follow that too a "T" dont miss or mess with a step. Give you this just for the good info for your carbs. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Seems now that winters weather is coming around everyone is running there bikes lean as hell...

First thing i would ask is if they will do used pipes and will they give at least any warranty on there chrome on used pipes at all. Then ask them if they know someone that will get the carbon outa the pipes for you as they proly wont want to mess with that shit. Good luck man.

I say go up one clip on the needles if you know your a lil rich on the mains. Go try now and check back man. Make sure everything is ok before getting on the gas hard.

Well first off settle down . Second, do you have a clymers? If not, get one on ebay for $30. Third, your floats are too low, move them up too with in 20-22mm and they wont leak but still give plenty of fuel. Fourth, your lean on your mains if its sputtering and popping up on a full long pull. Do a PROPER plug chop, don't miss a step and do it too the "T" then jet according to what your plugs after doing the proper plug chop tell you. Plug chop>>> http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html EVERYTHING you need to know about the carbs you have>>>> http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Q#26: You need to read THROUGHLY!!! Everything i said above is covered in the clymers or the second link with what you need to do.

Well really depends what oil your using. Full synthetic or just regular dino oil? Whats the brand of oil? Again i run 50:1 with Amsoil Interceptor. A (full synthetic oil) Anyways here is a chart for you to look at man. http://www.rideau-info.com/canal/fuelmix.html Theres no need for you to run your oil/gas ratio SO damn rich.

DAMN, why so much oil man?

Ultra shit, drag only IMO Unless you got an R with a CR500 type no link arm then it's pimp.

Yeah, just go make sure your carbs are pretty well synced. Then pull the tops of the carbs off and see what clip the needles are on. Here is a good lil clip to watch to sync by eye.

WHAT? Your only going to get maybe 1/2-1" more travel with the yfz spindles. But with that your going to get tons of negative camber when the suspension is compressed more then its supposed to go. I say leave the banshee spindles on if your going to run banshee wider geo arms or even "LT" arms..and run the yfz spindles on yfz arms.

Do you know your altitude? I would start by just syncing your carbs and see if there out by a few mm and what not. Being colder out will lean your bike up some, making it seem better. But thats the thing, a motor always seems like its running the best and making the most power just before it melts down. IMO you should do a proper plug chop also. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Do every step to a "T" and don't miss any steps, or its kinda pointless. Also pull your slides and see where the clips are at.

Whats BS? Theres guys that will do it, just get out ALL the shit inside the pipes i mean ALL of it. Then they plug the pipes off and do there thing. Theres a couple guys over here in BC that will do them, but proy wont warranty them for very long re chroming used pipes. Just how it is man. Im sure you can find someone that will do this also in Edmonton close to you. Hell i remember a guy that used to do it in St Albert awhile ago...i check into see if he still in the business. I had my Jaws pipes chromed few years back on my sled and they lasted great even being used. Biggest step is the prep. Or get a ceramic jet hot coating. I had this done to my Hooker long tube strip headers on my 80 Silverado 1/4 mile truck back in 1999 and they still look really nice to this day and keep the heat down also. Not as shinny as tipple plate show chrome but there pretty shinny, and I had this done at Jet-Hot in Calgary. Oh the Race city drag days in calgary.......those were the days..........

Well first off what carbs are you running, stock 26's right? Do you know what pilots are in there? 25, 27.5 or 30's? Know what position your clips on your needle are at? Temps, altitude, mods? Has it always run like this or just since its gotten cold out? I would start with at least eye ball syncing the carbs, and get it as close as you can. How do you know your main is right on? You do the proper plug chop? You richen up some now that its colder up here? With the pipes, i would sand blast them up real quick, then hit it with 2 coats of high heat paint or PC!

Hang the bum

Honestly all the info you want to know is covered in the Clymers for a banshee. Really should invest the $30 for one, there REALLY good to have on hand. Only way you can tell if a cdi is good or bad is to change it out with a known good working one. But anyways all the electrical specs are here and more. TONS of info>>> http://bansheehq.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=28 Everything you need to know about your 26mm carbs here. Lots of info also>>> http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html Good luck man.

No its not a specific cable, just not for the tors. Didn't one come with your kit? Just call jeff at FAST and he proly has a bunch in stock. Or call Pro motion.

Buy a swinger set up for no link. Hit up stellar

No, you need the 8 Top case studs. As said above give jeff at F.A.S.T a call, hes a site sponsor here also. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/ http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=17548 PM or call For the head get a Noss head, Dave is a site spocer here too and i think he gives 10% off to members (dont quote me on that)so that helps and there a kick ass head anyways. I run one and love it We need to know your altitude for what dome to tell you but just going off if you are at sea level or close too, get the 21cc domes. Better yet, call Noss machine and ask dave what he recommends for domes size with his head and the fuel and altidude you are. Oh and by the way, good on you for buying a clymers man..lots of dumb ass's around here that NEED to spend the $30 and get one. Good luck man. Heres his site, remember hes a sponsor here so tell him your a member here. >>> http://www.nossmachine.com/ His name on here, give him a shout>>> http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showuser=685

So both sides are done? In that pic the 2 that show are really only one as there joined under the metal piece.

Just get replacement reeds for cheep and be done.

Why not pull it apart and fix it your self with the help of us here and also your clymers. Then you will learn what to do and what not to do and how things work with this hobby and save a couple hundy at the same time?