dawarriorman

Hell you don't need any rings. Don't listen to these fools. Just take a little JB weld, and fill up the piston with it where the rings would go, and then hurry and put the cylinders on before it sets. Perfect seal everytime.

Im currently using Dawn dish soap.

So switching to a single carb not only gave you more power, but better gas mileage as well? And I couldn't ride that long when I was bone stock. If you're riding all out, don't count on more than a couple of hours. Now taking it easy and just cruising, well maybe, but really, who does that with a banshee.

hmm, thats definately somthing to think about, seeing as durhamtown and aonia pass are both about an hour away. Do you know any more details that aren't on there? Like how long the race is? What gear is needed (tether switch, nerfs and so on)? I'll see if I can't swing some money to race.

No. No. Yes. Bump steer is caused by improper steering geometry. In an ideal system the tie rod mount by the tire should fall in line with the a-arm mounts on the spindle, and the tie rod mount on the stem should fall in inline with the a-arms mounts at the frame. If the mounts are lined up and the tie rod is at the same angle as the a-arms you won't have any bump steer (the tie rod moves exactly the same as the a-arms). Now if one of those things isn't satisfied, the a-arms and tie rods aren't moving the same as the suspension compresses, and it changes the toe angle of the quad. The problem with a banshee is the wide frame where the a-arms mount. Look at the newer quads and you'll see that they have narrower frames up front. Hitting stuff in the trails and having your handlebars jerk, is not bump steer. Its just annoying as fuck.

Mine fit fine, aren't closer than an inch from anything. Just get them and pay attention to any area that could be a problem.

Im pretty sure Ive seen several different ads in Dirt Wheels that still sell them. And this new dirt wheels is 300 and something pages, so thats like 200 pages of nothing but ads. Im sure somebody is going to have them pretty cheap too.

Yeah you need that crows foot, but you don't need any calculation. If you put it at a right angle to the wrench, you don't add any length to the wrench, and it torques to what its reading.

Get a torque wrench that goes high enough, and simply follow factory tightening specs. Tighten the first nut to 94 ft lbs. Tighten the second nut against it to 140 ft lbs. Then loosen the first nut against the second one at 170 ft lbs. I've never had the least problem with the nuts coming loose, and I didn't use any loctite.

Thats what I was thinking. We did away with vehicle inspections probably about 10-15 years ago, and you can pretty much do anything you want now.

Holy crap, somebody else in SC! Whereabouts are you at (Im in Aiken)? And I don't know of any shops in the state for sure, although I do know there are some people that race at a strip in Wagener. And the shop in Orangeburg might do something, since they have a dyno, and theres a guy from there on Planetsand. Check Dynojets website at their dyno locator and it will give you an adress and phone number. Honestly though, if I were you I would send it out somewhere. The people in the other parts of the country have a lot more of a banshee customer base than around here because of the wide open areas (dunes). I sent my cylinders to FAST, and shipping there was $20 bucks, while somehow he managed to get them back to me for $10 bucks. Plus his work is cheaper, and Im sure better than anyone I could get around here.

Heres my take on it. I take it easy at first for a tank or 2 of gas. At 500 ft above sea level with 21cc domes, I have 153 lbs in both cylinders, which is pretty much the highest I could possibly get. Ride all out if you want, but the rings aren't going to "seat better". That and most people seem to base their "balls to the wall break in" on Mototuneusa.com . And that guy is a fucking moron. Im not going to get into everything about him, but I'll just say this: anybody that thinks they can get more hp out of a superbike than the factory race teams that designed and built the thing is retarded. And that guy from that site thinks that he knows more about the engines than the people that designed them. Trust him if you want.

What thats telling me is that its not really lean, as much as it looks like your squish clearance isn't high enough, and your getting detonation from that. Look at the ring on the outside of the pison. It goes all the way around the piston, and is only on the outside edge. It doesn't look like your typical lean out piston that has a hole burnt down the side. Measure your squish clearance when you rebuild and I'll be you'll find its too small. Other than that, clean the carbs well, get new reed cage gaskets, get new intake manifolds, new crank seals.

You do realize what you are saying right? That gas and oil is magically turning into carbon without burning. If its not burning, its still gas and oil.

How does carbon form when the cylinder isn't firing?

Uhh, you shouldn't be able to get much if any higher than 160 with 21cc domes. Did you check compression warm? If not, get a new gauge for your tester.

Yeah, riding in trails could be part of the problem. Sounds like a rich main jet, and since you're not wide open all the time it takes a while to foul the plug. Could be the needle too, but more than likely you would notice it not running right on the trails if the needle was too rich. What jetting do you have in it right now? (main jet size, pilot jet size, needle clip position, along with your mods).

If you are fouling plugs either your jetting is wrong, or you are using too cold of a plug. If you are using a br8es then your jetting is off. You shouldn't foul plugs under normal conditions

No they aren't, one of the designers is or was over at atvriders.com. They are built overseas (italy if I remember right), then shipped over here and inspected (magnaflux) for strength.

And do you have any experience to back this up with? Or is this just an opinion you came to from looking at pictures. Their arms look to built better than most out there, and they use better ball joints too.

With a shock that much longer you would very likely blow out a balljoint. Which could cause a nasty wreck at the worst possible time. Get shocks made for a banshee. Even if you have to wait longer to get them, you will be happier (and safer) in the long run.

Go find a place that sells used tires, and buy one. Cut up the sidewall into little squares of rubber, and put them in between the frame and the skid plate.

Seems like you catch on quick Honestly, trail riding is more about skill than anything else. A pro level GNCC rider could take a stock 400ex and beat all of us on tight trails. Get what you feel most comfortable driving, and you will be fastest. Most of my friends don't like riding my banshee in the woods. They tend to describe it as an unguided rocket, point and gas it. It more than likely will go there, but who knows it may not. I have no problems with it in the woods since Im used to it. The banshee will take more work in the woods though. And If you aren't big enough to pick it up, turning around could be a hassle. That being said, this is a banshee site, I have a banshee, so of course Im going to say get the banshee (but only if you feel comfortable, its easy to get hurt on one. The a-arms in my avatar are from an encounter with a tree in the woods the week after I got my shee).

Sorry, but I think Scion takes that honor

Ok, all I want to know is where is the hp peak, and the rev limiter set at? Will the one that says 17.5 actually rev that high, or is the tach just wrong? And are they going to change the rev limiter? If there is anything to gain by being able to revving to 17.5, then Id keep it, but if not, hell, give me a new bike.