dawarriorman

The only reason a cub is a top end cylinder is because it is already ported for high end power from the factory. The ports are already cut higher in the cylinder than you would want for a lower end port. You can't add the material back to drop the port timing. The point of using a stroker block was you could cut it down to fit a stock stroke machine, and the side effect of doing this was that the ports would be dropped low enough that it could be ported with lower port timing than the regular stock stroke cub comes with. All I wanted was to hear if anyone had any experience with this procedure. I already know that most people think there are better ways to get more hp, otherwise more people would have done this.

I appreciate your comments, but if you aren't going to answer my question, or are going to reply by saying "you don't want to do that" Then don't reply. I know it would be easier to simply port stock cylinders. I've already had that done on one banshee, and am looking at something different to do for the other one.

Been awhile since I've been on here (started a business, sold it, going back to school now), so I have some spare time again. Anyways, I vaguely remember hearing a couple years back that someone had taken a 4mm cub cylinder and decked the bottom to run it on a stock stroke motor. Doing this allowed them to drop the port timings enough that they could port the motor for a wider/lower end powerband. My question is, does anyone remember this, or has anyone else done it. And if so, how did it turn out?

stock impellers can break/melt since they're plastic. Mine had a ton of fractures in it, after more time it would have fell apart. More of an insurance thing than anything else, if the stock impeller goes, its gonna cost you alot more than the impeller costs in repairs. Does cool better too.

Could be bearings also, that was the first sign I had that tranny bearings were going. But Id say its probably the clutch (basket wear?). I've had the clip fall off the idler gear too (use a new snap ring on it every time). Magnetic drain plug caught all of it (those things are awesome, you'd be surprised at the metal in your oil even when you can't see it).

All I know is the rest of the world uses toyota. 3rd world countries survive on them. They visit the shop less on average than Ford/Chevy/Dodge. My 93 toyota just hit 200k. Its been in 2 wrecks. Never once has it broken down. Never once (besides the body shop) did it ever have to be repaired. Change oil, air filter, spark plugs, timing belt ... do basic maintenance, and it will run forever. I have yet to meet anyone with ANY american truck that made it to 200k without having to put the vehicle in the shop at least once. Just look at the recall histories of Ford/Chevy/Dodge.

Maybe this is a stupid question, as I've never been to Canada. But how will they know you bought it here? Just tell them its yours, you simply took it to the states to go riding, and now you're going back home. From what I've seen crossing the mexican border that would be no problem. Customs agents won't know how to read the VIN numbers to tell where it was sold. Just smear some dirt over it and make it look used. Now if you have to have it registered up there, that may bring up other problems.

Great shocks! I've got a set of PEP triple rates on my shee, and couldn't ask for a better shock. Used to have Works, and I've ridden on about every brand made. I wouldn't trade them for anything.

4 stainless hose clamps.

I've done enough research on this, contacted people, got numbers from people at the airport. Most of what this guy says are the same reasons that everyone else uses. They make some sense logically, but they aren't based on any fact. As for his "heavy end light end" theory: The specific gravity (density, weight per unit volume) of most race gasolines is somewhere in the .700 - .750 range. I can't remember the exact number off the top of my head, but both BP and Shell 100LL AV gas are above .700. So it weighs the same as other race gase, and also won't seperate any more than the next gas. Its not oxygenated either.

Unless they've changed stuff around in the past couple years, don't count on it. I know a person first hand that had a weld crack on the shock mount (fall off is more like it). ASR told him too bad. Wouldn't even look at it.

The only reason I was arguing is that you have no fucking clue what quad Im talking about, or any of the work or parts he put into. I wouldn't have said a fucking word if you had bothered to at least inform yourself before you said something. Every comment you make shows you still don't know anything about the quad. All you focused on is the "50 grand", you just wanted to make somebody look stupid because you don't want to/can't believe that somebody would spend that much money. I've read about it, he posts all over the internet (he's posted on here in the past, I imagine he left cuz of people like you). I never said I knew him. I never said its a fact. You're the one saying its a fact he didn't spend that much when you still don't know a fucking thing about his quad. Who's the know-it-all here?

WHY THE FUCK IS EVERYONE GETTING HUNG UP ON 50 GRAND. WHY DOES EVERYONE INSIST ON ARGUING THE POINT? Read what I wrote. "last i heard it was up around 50 grand". I don't keep his reciepts, I don't know EXACTLY what he spent. My point was to get across how much money a project like this costs. I know he's getting close by now. Now I remember why I don't come here so often. While there are some good people here, there are always some that insist on being completely right about everything, and its like they get to stroke their e-penis by trying to make it look like they are the fucking smartest person on earth. YOU DON'T KNOW EVERYTHING. (firehead does :wink: )

My point is you had no clue what machine I was talking about, you just figured it couldn't happen because you work "in the performance industry". Just inform yourself before you make comments. Titanium axle, busa motor, turbo, EFI system, shocks, custom drag frame. How much you think he paid just for those parts alone? streetshee - sorry for the hijack. If you really want to do it, then go for it. Somebody has to be that guinea pig that dumps his savings into his dream. Prove us wrong :beer:

Before you start spouting off at the mouth like a fucking moron, why don't you at least figure out who I was talking about. The guy I am talking about IS the tuner building it. It is in a full on custom drag frame and I very highly doubt that anyone is making more than the 500+ that the bike Im talking about is. http://www.fireball-racing.com/Videos.htm

Dude, read what we said. If you really want to do this, you are going to have to come up with ALL of it yourself. None of us have done it, none of the engine builders have done it either (that I know of). There was/is a raptor supercharger kit in the works. Never really heard anything about it after the prototype was built. Doing something like this is going to cost you an absolute fortune. Think like $20,000 (or 15000 euros or pounds or whatever currency you use). Or more. You will never be done with it. You will burn the motor up several times tuning it. You will always be tuning it. Look around for the busashee. Simple right? Turbo busa motor in a shee frame. Nothing too exotic right? Last I heard he was up around $50,000 that he had put into it. Do you really want to spend that much time and money to do this?

For the time and effort it takes to do ANY kind of forced induction on one of these engines, you will get more horsepower MUCH easier by getting a set of aftermarket cylinders. It WILL be an ongoing headache, you will never be done with it if you want to super/turbo charge a shee. This isn't a car with EFI, you don't just bolt on a supercharger kit, and reprogram the chip. There is no kit, you would have to make your own, make your own EFI system, tune/program your EFI system, spend countless days testing and tuning. And in the end, probably anyone with a big stroker would still stomp you. Save yourself the time and hassle.

Nobody makes a set of bullet-proof a-arms. Anyone that tries to say different is full of shit. I've seen Roll a-arms snap in half in person, LSR a-arm that were broken, ASR heims that fell apart sitting still (and ASR arms that broke, seen that happen a couple of times). Customer service is one of the bigger things. Jensen (janssen, whatever his name is) has had some BAD problems with customer service in the past. So has ASR. Personally the thing I look at in a-arms in the tube the shock mounts on. If the a-arm has a single tube that the shock mounts to with no bracing, I don't want it. The arm is relying on only 2 welds, and both of those are holding weight in a shearing manner. And, there isn't any temper left in the steel where the weld is. Pretty much all of those affordable a-arms fall into that category. Im not saying they are junk, Im not saying they aren't good quality. Im just not going to trust them with my life when Im landing from 20' in the air. I've wrecked from that height once, not doing it again. LSR, some of the ASR arms use a flat piece of steel under that tube, which helps. The hydrodynamics arms use good braces. If I remember right so does Laeger and Roll. The HD arms also use Laeger style ball joints (I wouldn't buy a set of ball joint arms if they use any other ball joints). Epic (Alba a-arms)makes/made some good a-arms too, though they seem to be hard to find (Laeger ball joints too). As far as heims, depends on your riding. I won't ever have them here because Ive seen what our mud/clay mix does to them after a couple seasons (yes even the good heims). Which leaves the Laeger ball jointed arms. Most people in other areas of the country don't seem to have any problems with heims though.

Yep, no rod just heat. I'd use some dial indicators after your done to make sure it stays true (if it does come out a little, use rubber mallet).

That would be my next guess too, although I had my circlip fall off while riding. Kept starting the whole time. Never once did it miss. I only realized something was wrong when I went to change the oil and a giant clump of shavings was stuck on the drain plug (magnetic drain plugs are life savers). If all the pieces are there, there really isn't any way it won't work. You push down on the kicker, it spins the gear while kicking it out. Which engages the idler gear which is always meshed to the clutch basket. From there the motor will spin. If all the pieces are there, then you must have it assembled wrong. Snap some pics.

Sounds like you might be missing the idler gear that sits between the clutch basket and the kickstarter gear.

Holding the clutch in while you continue to roll can screw stuff up. And asphalt eats tires. Other than that, no, it will be fine.

Sounds to me like you caught him more off guard than anything. Course, even if he is lying and making up stories, you went and bought it in person. You saw it before you paid. Its not up to him to tell you the truth, it isn't ebay. I hate to say it, maybe Im the somewhat same way. Im not going to screw somebody over on something (I wouldn't lie about it). But Im sure not going to tell them anything that happened to the quad that isn't obvious. I'm trying to sell it, its the best/fastest four wheeler ever built, of course nothings wrong with it. They have every chance to look it over, ride it, evaluate it for themselves, and decide if they think its worth what Im asking.

Throw something up in durhamtowns forums. Hell go out there and see if they'll put a poster up or give them a picture or something. Its one of if not the biggest riding spot in the state. Not far from you either. Hope you get them back

Exactly...Im not racing, I don't care if theres an extra .5 hp to be found if it costs me $50 - $100 bucks, whatever those things cost. I could just buy a set of turf tamers that are lbs lighter per tire than my holeshots, and put more hp to the ground. As far as tolerances go, yeah I had thought about that, but I ignored it on purpose (I was wondering if that was what you were thinking). If you start getting picky like that you can just keep going. Your filters aren't going to have the exact same air flow, they probably won't have the exact same air pressure or temp around them. They won't be oiled the same or perfectly even, which will change the airflow through them. Once they get dirty that will magnify their differences. If you use a 2 into 1 adapter, well then you've got to hope its machined right, or it won't flow the same into each carb. If I were drag racing, then sure, Id buy it, and use it. Hell, if I even rode with any quads that were a challenge to me I might. But when Im out riding for days at a time, they won't stay in perfect sync. So I won't bother. To each his own though. :beer: