dawarriorman

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suzuki-Z400...1QQcmdZViewItem This guy should be shot for selling these things. I can't imagine how bad that thing would handle in rough terrain. Not to mention they cost $200.

Mine cost a total of $10. Went to Lowes, bought a sheet of aluminum, and after a couple hours, this is what I came up with. http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e174/spe.../Banshee005.jpg

Well, if you're sure the ball bearing is in there and you have the correct cable, then the only thing I could think of would be that you didn't adjust it right. Before you adjust it, you set the freeplay to the max (screw in the adjuster at the clutch lever all the way). You should be able to pull the lever in most of or all of the way without any tension. Then you adjust it till the arrows are lined up while pushing on the clutch arm. Then adjust the free play to spec (1/2" or something like that, I forget). If thats what you did, and you still have too much slop, then adjust the clutch again, but this time don't screw in the cable all the way at the perch. I think when I did mine when the cable adjustment was bottomed out, most of the pull was slack, but the last inch wasn't. Try adjusting your freeplay like that, then adjust the clutch.

extended a-arms (+2+1) and suspension (TCS) with 4+1 offset rims. Only 2" wider, with much better suspension. Pipes and a MX or GNCC style port. Personally I think the low rpm pipes are a waste. If the powerband is the same width, whats the difference if it comes on at 6k or 8k rpm? This is a 2 stroke, learn how to ride.

Uh, what city or for that matter state does this place happen to be in?

Yeah, Plasma still hasn't been mastered yet. Pixels burn out, and there's no way to fix them. You want a big screen, the new digital projection TVs are the way to go. Sony's SXRD is my pick. DLP TVs are good too, although I don't know how long term reliability would be with them.

A warrior is never going to be that fast. You could dump a few grand into the motor only to be beat by a piped banshee (or 450, or raptor). That being said, I believe that people with the big stroker motors have made hp in the 40s. But a simple cam and piston change even with a ported head won't make it that fast. Back when I had my warrior I thought it was fast with a cam and piston. Then I got my banshee and realized a stock banshee would kill it. Sparks would be a good choice. I know Powroll used to do alot of work with them, not sure anymore though.

Ah, screw the naysayers. Fusion has flex agents in it, it does not flake off at all. I painted another spray can lid with it, waited until it dried. I twisted and bent that thing until it touched itself. The paint won't flake. Now it is soft, and will scratch/dent fairly easily, but not that bad. And car wax will take any scratches out perfectly. Now it isn't chemical resistant, so gas and cleaners will eat it away. But Id say overall its fairly durable. Ive had my radiator shroud painted for awhile now, and it still looks great when I clean the dirt off. If you've got the money to waste on plastics, then by all means do it. But fusion will hold up fine. And all it takes to fix any problems is a few minutes with a spray can.

2000 and before the recommended plug was b8es, while 2001 and after they recommend the br8es. The resistor is supposed to stop interference in your electrical system. You know, that way you won't hear that whine on your stereo Im pretty sure it doesn't really matter though, cuz I ran the non resistor plugs for a while, then decided to switch for the hell of it, plugs still look the same.

What do you know, the "dyno chart" from Toomey has their pipes making more hp. That chart was more than likely drawn in paint. Just get a set of pipes, and you'll be happy.

They don't do a research octane test on 100LL. The other test they do is the Rich Mixture (supercharged) test. Gasoline that is 100% iso octane will score 100 on that test, while 100LL scores 130. Not really much point in paying attention to that test though, cuz nobody else uses it for anything.

I love how anybody has been brainwashed into thinking these new quads can "jump better". How exactly does one quad "jump better" than another? I can see how one will land better, with better suspension, which the yfz has stock. But if you buy aftermarket shocks, the banshee can take just as big of jumps. The new quads can handle better sure, but they aren't rewriting the laws of physics so they jump better.

Exactly, people will argue till the end of time. I've read up quite a bit on it, talked to people that have used it (in drag cars), and they haven't had the smallest problem. And those are engines that would have blown holes in the pistons with 93 octane (the one guy did the first time he ran the motor). Until somebody can give me a real reason, and back it up with credible data, then Im going to keep running it. Just saying its designed for an airplane, and this isn't an airplane is not a good reason. Im going to say it now. Pump gas is designed for cars, and its no good for quads. Everybody stop using pump gas now. See how stupid that sounds.

I've done a lot of research on it, and AV gas works fine for normal motors. The specific gravity is no lower than alot of race fuels. It has plenty of octane, and its not only for high altitudes, or else how would the planes land? And your normal car doesn't rev higher than 6 grand, so can you say pump gas isn't for high rpm?

Yeah, the 2 strokes already are clean and efficient. Its just that the money is already spent on the 4 strokes for one. And another reason we won't see any new 2 strokes is the negative connotation thats already there. People see them as dirty smoky engines. Places have outlawed 2 stroke boats altogether, even though the new direct injection boat motors are just as clean burning as the four strokes. Most of the DI outboards have 3 star CARB ratings. The same as the 4 stroke outboards.

Well of course its going to beat everything in stock form, its already 49" wide. I would be surprised if it WAS a close race. Now compare it to a 450r and yfz450 with axles and a-arms, and then it would be something worth reading. Everything has been hyped to death when it first came out, and after awhile, people realize its not the greatest at everything. Remember the 400ex was supposed to be as fast as a banshee .

Buy any cover you want, and send it somewhere to get it annodized. Shouldn't cost too much.

I will say that if you do plan on building a purpose built drag machine, race gas would be a better choice. But if you aren't going extreme, go with AV gas. I know of a couple people firsthand that use 100LL in their drag cars (all motor and nothing too extreme, but they turn 10s in the 1/4). And the guy at the airport says theres a bunch of people that come in every thursday night on their way to the track.

http://www.chevron.com/products/prodserv/f...ecsandtest.shtm http://www.astm.org/cgi-bin/SoftCart.exe/D...ystore+tbyb6426 The supercharged test is the rich mixture test, which is the aviation specific number. When 100LL is run through that test it scores 130, where a gasoline made up of entirely 100% isooctane would score a 100. 100LL scores 100 on the same motor octane test that is used for all gas motors. Which VP 110 scores a 107 on. Now sure, maybe it doesn't perform as well at higher rpms, but there aren't any industry standard tests that prove so. I don't think it matters too much though, we aren't running F1 motors, and there are aircraft engines that rev just as high as automotive motors. But it IS 100 MON gasoline.

Sorry, but you're wrong on that brad. The 100LL gas is 100 motor octane. Thats the lean mixture rating, ASTM D2700 (Standard Test Method for Motor Octane Number of Spark-Ignition Engine Fuel). VP 110 is 107 motor octane. Its not quite as high as most race fuels sure, but it is a HUGE step above pump gas.

Im in exactly the same situation as you. I decided though, that since its close, I'll go ahead and start running av gas anyways. Only 4.25 a gallon here, and vp 110 is 7 or 8 a gallon. Plus if you mix, it works out to being only a dollar more per gallon than pump gas. The way I see it, I think you could probably get away with it if you're jetting is perfect. But if you're a little lean, that could add enough heat that you might have some problems. But it would be nice to be able to run pump gas.

Hahaha. Step 3 is right. Seriously though, why do you want to look slow?

The problem I see with it, is the only there is only 2 places to remove material from. The divider, which would help but isn't a huge amount of area. And the base of the reed, which is a huge amount of area, but the reed doesn't open up down there. The reed opens at the tip. If someone can give me a dyno showing a difference, I might change my mind, but Im pretty sure I don't have to worry about that. You want something to give you cheap hp, get a timing plate.

I haven't heard of anybody running one yet, but this one ( http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55873 ) looks bad ass. Plus its foam and not a K&N. If I could get away with no airbox, Id already have one of these ordered. So get one, and let us know how it works