dawarriorman

Yep. I will say though, I know the teams that use honda engines get the whole engine completely assembled and ready to go from honda. They fedex them in crates to the team. The team simply throws them in the car, and its ready to go. Once the team gets done with an engine, they fedex it back. At least Andretti/greene racing does, I would imagine the other honda teams do the same.

Going from an airbox with the lid and snorkle on, to pods yeah you probably would, if you already had pipes that is.

If I ever were to get rid of my airbox, Id get them just for the novelty of it.

True the clutch control is all built into the computers, but thats easily reprogrammed. Although the more I think about it, throw some drag slicks on the indy car, let it do a burnout, and it might still launch pretty damn hard. Clutch would be a non issue

Theres more difference than you might think between the IRL and F1, although they are subtle. Doesn't really matter for this discussion though. But yeah, I would think they could do the 1/4 way under 10. Even if 1st gear is high, all they have to do is ride the clutch.

Yeah, not really many people from the southeast on here. Im from SC, about half an hour away from Augusta.

:biggrin: In that case go with the GNCC front tires.

Move the key, and get rid of the ugly plastic thing. I know some people just zip tie it under the seat somewhere, while modquad makes a braket to relocate the switch under the seat.

Ok, i'll add one more comment. While plenty of people are replying saying that they ride trails with extended swingarms, it isn't the best setup. Sure you can do it, but it isn't the smartest way. A longer swingarm is going to handle worse, and will put less power to the ground. The best way to go for trails or mx is a shorter swingarm. If you should have to learn anything, its throttle control. You will hook up harder with a shorter swingarm (puts more weight on the rear wheels), and will turn easier with it. If you have so much power you wheelie everywhere, thats where the throttle control comes in. If you wheelie out of control, then you simply need to use less throttle. Trail riding isn't about horsepower, its about finess.

The GNCCs are kind of a narrow tire, and I'd bet a banshee would just spin with them. More of a 4 stroke oriented tire. The HD on the other hand, grips like crazy.

I wouldn't be so sure. You start going at a YFZ 450, and you can get that thing light as hell, like sub 325 with fluids.

If your worried, get the serial number off the frame, and call the sheriff department. They'll be able to tell you if its stolen or not.

Uh, no. Banks, employers, and the IRS are the only people you should be giving your social security number to.

SUSPENSION. Forget the motor mods until you have suspension that can keep up. Once you get the suspension sorted out, then work on the motor.

No such thing as a foolproof investment. And the higher the pontential rewards, the greater the potential risk. Website isn't too convincing to me either. Throwing a little money in it might not be a bad idea just to see where it goes, but I wouldn't put your savings into it either.

And it won't handle as well. It will feel less responsive, and won't change direction as quick.

Tighten the preload collar all the way down. Then turn the compression all the way in, and back it out 10 clicks. Thats a starting point though, if it still feels too soft, go ahead and turn it in more. Never run with it all the way in though. As far as rebound, I can't remember which way is which, but stock is pretty close.

Shouldn't be too hard. Jack up the quad at the rear end of the frame, but let the tires stay on the ground. It should come right out once you get most of the weight off the bolt.

Yeah, Id have to say everyone else is right. Its not detonation, you simply don't have enough compression /timing for it to happen. That is unless he already had a degree key, and then you put a timing plate on. First thing first though, jet it yourself. That way you know what you have, and you "know" its right. Personally I've never been a fan of the Dynojet kits. Not the highest tolerances, and since they use a different number scheme nobody can help you, or tell you what it is. That and I don't know if they would have a big enough jet for you. Im running T5s with no lid, and 340 mains. Even Toomey recomends to low of jets for most people.

If Im not mistaken, the Cheetahs use exhaust pressure to determine how high the vavle is. Higher rpm = higher exhaust pressure, so the valve is raised.

Don't know if you've used Google ads before Lee, but I've heard of a bunch of people that were never able to get their money out Google.

Yes its possible, and it has been done, but its not cost effective. For the price, a set of cheetah (cub or regular) cylinders would be a better deal, and plenty of power.

Id have to agree. I had a warrior before I got my shee, and when I had it I thought it was pretty fast, until I got my shee. On a MX track, even with a cam and piston, the warrior simply didn't have the power to hit the jumps (yes I had a cam and everything too). Not to mention the suspension simply isn't up to par. It will take a couple grand just to give the warrior as much hp as any high performance quad has with just a pipe. And the handling on the warrior is atrocious. If he really wants to get into racing, get him a 400ex, or z400.

It would be much better on the HIDs to run a battery. A capacitor can supply current for a moment, but if you sit there and idle, it won't keep the voltage up. There will still be fluctuations in the voltage.

Yeah, but how would the thief even know it was there? All they would see is the vehicles electrical system. Unless it says Lo-Jack in big orange letters, they could be staring right at it, and never imagine what it is.