dawarriorman

Right, with the same setup. (I'll use lb ft here for my own simplicity sake, but the results give the same idea). Your first truck makes its 1000 lb ft and 500hp at 2626 rpm. The second truck makes its 750 lb ft and 600 hp at 4201 rpm. The second truck simply downshifts a gear, and will hold that hill just as well as the first one at the same ground speed. Because that truck has to downshift it makes us think that it has to work harder, and doesn't have as much power, but thats not the case. Im not trying to be an ass, just playing devils advocate. The whole torque is king idea has been around over here forever, and in the drag racing seen all the guys with these huge big block drag racers thought the import tuners were wasting their time. Yet those guys with 4 cylinders are in the 7's in the 1/4 mile now. Torque is the easy way to be fast, and people didn't want to believe you could do it any other way. And your english is great, better than half the people on here who speak it as their only language.

Gear oil is rated different than motor oil. 80 wt gear oil is not the same thing as a motor oil thats rated at 80w.

But the amount of torque you are putting to the wheels is NOT the amount of torque you see on a dyno, the amount of torque you see at the wheels is that of the dyno run through the transmission. Lets say one engine has a peak of 200 ft lbs of torque at 8000 rpm and another engine has 600 ft lbs of torque at 2000 rpm. The second engine should launch like a son of a bitch and pull the other hard as hell right? 304 horsepower for the first engine vs 228 hp for the second engine. Put a 4:1 reduction ratio on the first engine so the rpm is the same as the second. Now its putting out 800 ft lbs of torque at the same 2000 rpm. Its an engine that never can produce as much torque as the other at the crank, but once its run through the transmission and put to the ground, it will spank the other motor every time. Point is torque is a number, nothing more. It is meaningless by itself. Horsepower is what gives torque meaning, its torque applied over time. I know what your trying to say, but your taking it too far. A motor with 75 hp and 50 ft lbs of torque will beat a motor with 60 hp and 60 ft lbs of torque every day, if the first motor is set up right. Even though you've seen high hp motors lose to lower hp motors with more torque, thats not because the motor with more torque was faster, thats because the setup of the high hp motor was wrong, and couldn't take advantage of the power.

I run straight AV gas with 21 cc domes and +4 timing. Im right at 155 lbs in both cylinders. You should measure your compression, but I would be running at least a 50/50 mix in your bike.

I didn't read your whole post, but I skimmed it. And yes your right to a point. But torque means nothing by itself. Torque alone will not move anything. The ability to apply that torque over time is what moves the car/bike/atv, and that is horsepower. You can take your muscle car with 600 ft lbs of torque, and I'll take an F1 car that probably doesn't have half that. I'll be waiting for you at the end of the 1/4 mile. The measure of torque at the crank is meaningless, because it doesn't drive the vehicle. Torque at the wheels is what provides the force, and that is run through a transmission. The reason that vehicles with broad powerband with torque down low do so good is they are easier to launch, and the gearing is more forgiving. Take a 4 stroke for instance, all you have to do is rev, dump the clutch and go. So what if the engine bogs down when you launch, you still have nearly the same amount of torque as you would at the engine's peak, you don't lose much time. The 2 stroke on the other hand, you have a narrow torque band, and you have to have everything setup to launch right. The tires can't have too much grip or you'll bog down, but not enough grip and you spin hopelessly. You also have to work the clutch right so you don't over or under rev. Then you have to shift right on the dot. Your argument is flawed. You CAN'T have any horsepower without torque, you can have torque without horsepower, and in that case you go nowhere. A proper balance makes you fast, and rideable, too much hp without torque makes for a fast vehicle, but not practical or rideable. Torque is meaningless without horsepower.

Honestly, it sounds like you just aren't cut out for a banshee then. Get rid of it if you must, but its not that big of a deal. These kind of things can happen. It is possible that all you need is new rings, although I'd bet you'll need a new piston too. One of the most important things to do when you put it back together is make sure stuff seals right. Any doubt in your mind that the gasket surface isn't good, use RTV. Always use new gaskets, torque everything perfect, and check it. On the intake and reeds make sure and tighten them good, using gaskets on both sides. The carb boots show the slightest signs of age, replace them. Honestly it isn't that big of a job, take the tank and front plastics off, take the pipes off, disconnect the throttle cables, and move the wiring out of the way. After that take the head and cylinders off, and your there. No problem to get it done and put together in 4 hours.

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=51428&hl= Justintoxicated has HID lights on his shee. Im sure he'll chime in here sooner or later and answer any questions you have. As far as brightness, I've seen a couple 4 pokes that had the HID lights on them, and those things were bright as the sun. Regular bulbs simply can't compete. If you ride at night any amount of time Id say go for it.

02 would have a brakelight, the 01 would just have a tail light. Also the 10th digit of the VIN number tells you the year (the number on the frame, not the motor). An 01 would have '1' as the 10th digit while an 02 would have '2'.

You try a copper washer?

I can't find the article now, but on Macdizzys site they have some good information about how the pipe on a 2 stroke works. It does force more air/fuel mixture into the cylinder than would be possible without it. At the time the article was written, a properly tuned 2 stroke 125 bike, when on the pipe, was using about 185cc of air/fuel mixture per stroke. A four stroke 125 motor would use about 121cc of mixture. No, its not the textbook definition of forced induction, and its not supercharged or turbocharged in any way. But when it is on the pipe, it is using more fuel/air mixture than could fit in the cylinder at ambient pressure. In essence its like forced induction. Either way though, I would try and go richer than 14.1:1. Waiting until the pistons melt to decide if that was rich enough is a poor way to tune IMO.

Id heard King doesn't do that great of a job on the ATV shocks valving. Any of the shock companies out there would build you a custom shock, but it probably won't be cheap, or quick. Give Elka, TCS, Axis, PEP a call and tell them what you're doing, and have them give you a rough estimate.

Umm, maybe Im missing something, but all it should take is a magnet. Even if the ball is welded to the rod, they should come right out. Oil might cause it to have a little stiction.

Thats a good idea if you have access to a welder. I wouldn't want to try and simply tap the cover, its not that thick, and would be easy to strip.

That doesn't drain nearly all the coolant. Pro design makes a replacement water pump cover that has a drain plug in it. If I remember right, it only costs like 10 bucks or so. Rocky Mountain has them I know, FAST probably does too. Most places should have it. Nice to have, but just be careful, when you pull the plug, the coolant shoots straight out, it makes a mess if your not ready for it.

Okay. What you do is turn that rod with the phillips end until the clutch arm lines up with the arrow. Thats with you pushing on the clutch arm. (a little past the arrow, 1/8 ", brings the engagement point in further). Now, you hold the rod in that exact position while you tighten the locknut. Then you adjust the freeplay until its right. You want the freeplay in the lever all the way out before you adjust it.

You have to take the side case off. Don't worry though, its not a big deal. As far as the gasket, When I took it off my 01 a year ago, it looked good enough that I could of reused it. But I pretty much get a new gasket for anything any time I take it apart. Better safe than sorry.

Well chalk up another one to the "I visited the site and spent more money". I was determined not to, until I started really looking. Damn you Jeff :yelrotflmao: As far as the fast 4 pokes, have any of you checked out planet sand and seen the thread about the 100 hp turboed 450?

Mine did too, so I simply mounted the silencer onto the other side of the mount which was enough to just push it off the frame.

Link doesn't work for me

Id have to agree. When I first took mine out it looked fine, and I thought maybe the failures Id heard about were just a bunch of people that didn't know what they were doing. Then my dad came by, picked it up and looked at it close, and the damn thing had cracked nearly in half already.

Cmon now, powervalves, you know a banshee doesn't kick in that early :thumbsup:

You would have to modify the spindle too the same amount, otherwise, turning the bars to lock would be about 10 degrees. Waay to quick steering. Building a linkage setup would be the best solution, but not really simple

I run the BR8EIX for the same reason. I put my airbox lid on to clean, and am constantly forgetting to take it back off afterwords. I haven't managed to foul these iridium plugs yet, going on 10 months on 1 set.

"Fuzz" is going to happen. Just make sure theres no pieces of metal.

I thought you were trying to save money?