dawarriorman

It depends on what state you live in if you get a title or not.

Internet radio (shoutcast.com), and streamripper. Free mp3s, and all you have to do is leave the computer on.

That shouldn't be possible though. You can't lose money betting like that. At the worst everyone bets on the same person and makes their money back. If any one person bets on someone else, then everyone else makes at least a little more than they bet. If your betting on odds less than 1:1, someone is screwing you.

Yes it does. Have you forgotten the ideal gas law? PV=nRT EVERY gas expands and contracts in relation to temperature.

Yep, best thing for a`hangover is another drink. I know it doesn't sound good, and before you drink it, its the last thing you want. But after a couple beers, the hangover is gone. Other than that, I usually take a couple tylenol, glass or 2 of water, a shower, and if possible, smoke some pot.

Personally I wouldn't get a set of shocks without rezzies, especially if you want to hit the track. Riding mx will heat shocks up really quck, and without rezzies, they will fade. Not as bad as stock, but still pretty bad.

Yep. You can use compressed air if its filtered and the moisture removed (breathing air, like for scuba). Mostly nitrogen anyways. But you more than likely didn't get enough pressure in there.

If you tighten it like the manual says, it won't come loose. Most people simply don't pay attention to the directions, or they don't get enough torque on the nuts. Im not sure on the exact numbers, but if your numbers are correct, you tighten the first nut against the carrier at 40 lbs. The second nut tightened against the first to 140 lbs, then you back the first nut off against the second nut to 177 lbs. As far as formula, Im guessing your talking about the one to correct the torque values for using the crows foot? You don't need to use a formula if you use the crows foot at a right angle to the handle of the wrench. As long as you don't change the length of the handle, you don't change the torque applied. like this: |< | |

As far as mounting them goes, I don't think theres anything special that you need to do, but then I've never run beadlocks, so I don't know for sure. For air pressure, I run 10" rear rims, and have bent one on a rock when I was at 4.5 lbs. I have since went up to 7.5 and haven't had any problem yet. I also do think I remember hearing the irazrs like more pressure, helps them from getting flats or something.

Don't tell him anything anymore. If he thinks your going to come and take it, he might just hide it somewhere. You can either take the police with you, or try and be your own repo man and steal it back. Either way, you still have the title, you still own the quad. Its up to you on how to get it back, but if it were me, Id just go in the middle of the night and take it.

As far as the frame hitting the ground goes, take the shock off one side, measure the shaft travel (distance from the body to the bumper). Subtract that from the eye to eye distance of the shock. Take that measurement, and hold your a-arms without the shock in them so that the shock mounts are that distance apart. Thats where your a-arms would be if you bottom out softly. You bottom out hard, and you'll compress the rubber stop, and go further. Another thing, has anybody measured the camber before and after?

You can get around itunes encryption shit if you just burn their mp3s to a music cd (not mp3 cd), and then rip the songs off that cd (might not be able to use itunes to rip them). Yet another example where the copy protection only impedes the rights of the honest people. A determined person will always get around it. As far as burning mp3 cds, last I checked (was awhile ago), all you have to do is burn a data cd of the mp3 files.

You're forgetting that dirtbikes are around 150 lbs lighter than a banshee. So what if a piped and lightly modded banshee has as much hp as a 250/450 bike, it still weighs a bunch more. It would take about 20 more hp on the quad to get the power to weight ratio the same as the bike.

I see no need to buy a whole new crank just for bearings. Thats just a waste of money. Id get the crank trued and welded while you got it out, and replace all the bearings, and then ride.

They're amazing. Some of the best Ive ridden on a track. I really never had thought about getting PEP when I was shopping for shocks, but I found them new on eBay for a good deal and haven't regretted it once. Im still using a stock rear at the moment. As long as the rebound is set right, its not too bad. It still sucks, but the stock front shocks are more of a limiting factor. Im planning on sending it off in a couple months to get revalved.

Yep, thats why. I've bent a rear rim before from having too little pressure (I always have kept the fronts high). If your running mx tires on a track, you aren't worried about the ride anyways, you want performance. Ask anybody that races mx what pressure they run. Its going to be closer to 10.

PEP makes triple rates for a banshee, and works, but nobody else does.

Doesn't look the least bit lean to me from the pictures. Personally I think people are way to quick to call a blown motor a lean out. That looks like the skirt just broke, plain and simple. The piston doesn't look burnt anywhere, there isn't any aluminum on the exhaust port (that I can see from the pics), and there arn't any marks from a siezure (what might look like one on the window side of the piston is from the skirt breaking). It happens, and with the pistons having been ported it doesn't surprise me one bit. Personally Id just get new pistons, make sure you don't have too much clearance, and ride it some more. Oh, and your fucking nuts for riding when its that cold. Anything below 40 is too cold for me. Course most of the winter its in the 60s here.

Negative camber in a wheel could be bent arms (good bet if the arm has been welded on), or it could be a bent spindle (thats happened to me). A wobble in the wheels is the wheel itself is bent/torqued.

I run straight AV gas. As far as the bad things about it, there aren't any, everything that people come up with are just myths. It mixes fine with premix, it isn't "made for high altitudes", it doesn't make the engine run any hotter, it won't change your throttle response. Its gas plain and simple. The reason its so cheap is simply because there is so much more of it used in the country than there is race gas. To me it seems people get put off when they find out how much cheaper it is than racing gas, and they try to find (invent) reasons why race gas is better. And shops that sell race gas want you to buy it from them, not go somewhere else. Of course they will tell you its bad for your motor.

Way more than that for a mx tire. At least 7 lbs. http://www.itptires.com/tirereference.html Those are ITPs suggested pressure. And now that Ive been runnug mine at 7.5 lbs, I do notice a difference.

Yes, you want to grab the clutch to use the back brakes. If your just starting out, its probably easier to just grab the front brakes instead. They won't drop the front end as fast as the rear brakes, but its easier to just reach a finger out and grab them. Make sure you let off before you land though.

Ok, first off, why on earth are you riding in 30 below weather? Second, whats your elevation? My guess would be 250 is too rich though. With stock pipes and no lid, I was running a 240. And that was pig rich unless it was in the 20s.

Or if you've got the money, a set of power valved cheetahs would make a great mx motor.

search google for paintball annodizing places. A plus annodizing is one that I can think of off the top of my head. Any company that does paintball guns and equipment would more than likely do whatever you want.