dawarriorman

Dude only wants to do cars. I haven't payed any attention since the first season, but I do know on the show's website, he said he didn't want to do any more bikes. So Im sure he isn't going to want to do quads. But, if somebody is dumb enough to do it and the show would let them, go for it.

Generally I'll get about 3 hours of riding to a tank of gas. Basically, I'll fill up twice for each time somebody with a 4 stroke fills up. Depends on what type of riding you do though.

I wasn't going to say it, but yeah, you're paying $300 for a billet intake.

You can make them do loops, but as long as they start and end at the same place, you didn't change anything. Same with the a-arms.

You can try it if you want, but IMO, knobbies aren't the best tire for that type of thing. Stock setup does have enough grab though if the brakes are blead right.

And here's a tip, never just check the pressure on your shocks. Its not possible to just check shocks, the volume of gas in the resevoir is small, and the amount you'll let out just checking the pressure will drop it significantly. The only way to check, is to attach it to a nitrogen source, with a regulator and a guage. You set the regulator to what it should be and then fill it up.

ANYTHING will bend if you use enough leverage. Take yourself a good vice, pad it so you don't scratch anything, then slip a long pipe over the stinger. Use a little heat, and just move slowly, and you'll bend it.

Best idea I've heard, and cheap tool. While I never mind having more tools, I don't really want to have to buy one that Im never going to use. I just took 2 pieces of angle iron, and made my own tool.

Exactly. First thing you do when you get pipes is go buy some white high temp paint. Then sit there and give the inside of the pipes a couple of GOOD THICK coats. Let it dry, then take off and enjoy. My T5s haven't turned the slightest shade of color yet.

Yep, you're not letting it warm up enough. Ive got mine torn down right now, and theres some tell-tale signs of it not being warmed up enough. I usually let it warm up enough that it was warm to the touch, but it would still sputter like you're saying. Well, if you're ever seen a cylinder and pistons that siezed, thats about what happens. Mine had marks evenly spaced around the cylinder were the cross hatch was worn smooth, and the piston had matching marks on it. True it never actually siezed on me, or had any problems, but that was more wear than I would have had otherwise. I learned my lesson. It really takes at least 5 minutes on a warm day for it to warm up. Cold winter like some of you up north have, Im sure it would take 10 minutes at idle to warm up. A truly warmed up engine isn't just warm to the touch, its hot to the touch.

You're thinking about this wrong. Sure the cop might not know, but the fact is if he pulls you over and you were following the law, then they are breaking the law for pulling you over. All you have to do is simply have your proof of ownership, and remember the law number. They try and hassle you, tell them the law, tell them to radio dispatch and find out about it. They do anything like impounding your quad, or arresting you, you will OWN that department. Hell Id already be riding all over just hoping for a cop to see me.

That "record raptor" is a load of shit. The raptor engine isn't what got it going so fast, its the rocket engine he had on the thing. Strap a rocket to a recon, and I'll bet it could break 100. On a more serious note, if there were any "official" records, Id bet the banshee would have it no doubt. I've seen more than a few doing 110+ mph in the 1/4.

Give yourself some toe-in, don't have them perfectly straight. Helps out with stability at speed. I can't remeber exactly what it is off the top of my head, but I think its 1/4" (front of the tires 1/4" closer than the back of the tires).

Those things are great. I've got one that looks exactly like that, and if you use it right, it will get any screw out.

Think back before Elka was around. The most adjustable shocks you could get were simply rebound and compression (most only had compression). Now, last I saw, you can get Elkas with high/low speed compression, rebound, and that Trac system. The other companies follow suit so they wouldn't be seen as behind the times.

Problem with slime is it throws your tires out of balance. The best way is to buy tire balls, although they cost a fortune. Course I guess it would better to go ahead and try slime before you buy new tires.

No, Im saying you can have your super adjustable elkas, I'll take my PEPs any day of the week.

No, you can't get a sundahl frame anymore, unless you find a used one. And as far as the frame itself, you can't get anything better. Its as close to perfect geometry as you can get. Not to mention its plenty tough enough. That thing has won the Baja 1000, you aren't going to break it on a trail. Basically thats what we all should dream about getting, screw a 250r style frame, Id give my left kidney for one of sundahl's frames. Edit: Nickypap, Thats as close to zero bump steer as is possible.

Yep, and thats only if they actually add any shaft travel to the shock. There have been some setups were there was no additional travel. As far as adjustment, you should only need compression on the fronts. Thats been one of my biggest pet peeves with elka over the years. As they've gotten bigger, they started offering shocks with more adjustments than anyone needs. Theres no reason for 3 compression, 2 rebound adjustments, and ride height. Their simply doing that to sell more shocks, and to try and help hide the fact that their valving isn't right. 95% of people won't be able to get a fully adjustable shock dialed in like it should be. Its not near as easy as alot of people think, and it takes a lot of time.

Yep, that generally works. But Id have to say you couldn't have had it in all the way. Last time I took mine apart, I used a 2 ft breaker bar, and damn near stood on the thing till it popped off. But the threads were fine.

As far as pistons go, every type out there has failed. Stock probably more than any, only because its been used in every banshee made. Cast vs forged isn't really the issue, quality control is. A good set of cast pistons will last just as long as forged. That being said, most people still use wiseco. As far as hp #s on cubs, if you have pipes, with everything else bone stock, you'll still be probably be at least 80 hp on cubs. You don't have to worry about hp with them. You have to worry about getting it to the ground.

It shouldn't lose any pressure over time. If it does, you have a leak, and need to tear the shock down. That being said, you also can't just check the pressure. The volume of gas is really small, and just checking the pressure would change that a bunch. Call up TCS and ask them though, they should give you a straight up answer. The numbers that pop into my head are 150 psi fronts, and 200 psi rear. Although I can't remember whose shocks thats for.

The weight balance is off, too far forward. Makes for less traction, and gives it a little push in the turns. There could be a little more rake on the front end. The frame rails where the a-arms mount are too wide. The shocks could be longer. The rest of it is ergonomics, and thats more personal.

Well its going to depend on your state first off, so where are you? Generally though, you can get a salvage title for it.

Go away and please don't come back. This has been discussed a million times, and every single time you get the same answers. 1. They are the best thing since sliced bread. 2. They are way better than stock, but not as good as aftermarket. 3. They are junk, stiff as hell, and will fuck up stuff sooner or later. All this thread is going to do is get the same type of replies. Frankly Im sick of them, and haven't replied to any more of them, except yours. You want the truth, save your money and buy aftermarket BANSHEE shocks.