dawarriorman

Orders of magnitude no, a small percentage yes. We tested this when I was on the clemson paintball team, even asked one of the chemistry professors to go over the results with us. It was a small difference. We had enough resources we were willing to pay the extra for nitrogen, but it simply didn't make enough of a difference to be worth the hassle. Either way, off-road you'll never notice the difference.

Not to mention that air is 70% nitrogen anyways. More consistent or not, ALL gases will change pressure with temperature. I used to have a nitrogen cylinder at home when I played paintball. When you filled a tank, it got hot. Let it cool down for 20 minutes, and you could fit another 300-400 psi in a 68 cu in tank.

Everyones setup is different, but Im running 340s with T5s and no lid on the airbox. Needle one clip down (raising the needle) from stock. And that thing your talking about sounds like a collar around the main jet, comes off when you unscrew the jet? If so, you don't need it.

Despite what you may think, theres pretty much no way you need 30 pilots in there. Thats probably where your oil is coming from. Drop down your pilots back to stock, turn the air screws .5 turn out from all the way in. (and unless you have the airbox lid still on, 270 is probably too small) A hotter plug is a band-aid fix. It will keep you from fouling plugs simply because it lets the plug stay hot enough to burn off the excess. You are too close to stock tune to call for any plug other than an 8.

Ok, so your balljoints are fine, but you bent spindles. That wasn't expensive enough? (not saying flipped rims was the only cause, but it contributed). gimmeabeer, As far as Ive seen, bent shocks just tend to be one of those fluke things. I've seen an Axis shock bent so bad it would make you cry, and everything else was fine (Roll front end). I've seen stock shocks bend while taking out both a-arms.

Before I answer, what kind of bandwidth does this take? Im on a slow dsl line that maxes out at 30 KB.

Thats there to adjust the slack in the cable, not how hard the pull is. There are only 3 ways to soften the pull: 1. Use lighter clutch springs. BAD because the clutch will slip. 2. Buy a easy pull lever setup. 3. Buy a hydraulic clutch lever. An override tranny is meant only for drag racing. You have to pull in the clutch when you are off the gas or else you will bend the shift forks. I know its not what you want to hear, but you just got to get used to it. You will eventually.

It IS harder than long a-arms. Its not the stress on the frame that your worried about, its the stress on the spindle and everything connected to it that you are worried about (wheel bearings, a-arm ball joints, the spindle itself). Re-read my post carefully. With the wheels in stock form, the centerline of the wheel (where the weight is coming from basically) is right close to the spindle (wrench with short handle). With spacers or flipped wheels, you move that centerline further away from the spindle. Youre adding a longer handle to everything.

No, its not a good thing. The gears in a bike/atv tranny do mesh, its not the teeth your worried about. When you shift, you rotate the shift cam, which in turn slides the shift forks. Those shift forks slide the gears back and forth on the tranny shafts. Some gears are driven by/drive the shaft, the others float. Those floating gears only matter when they are engaged with the dogs on a gear next to them (when its slid into place by the forks). When you shift without the clutch, you're slamming those gears together and hoping for the best. You WILL wear them down, you WILL put more stress on your shift forks. Its unavoidable. Whether or not you will break something, nobody will be able to tell you. As for the blaster beating you, well, if its a 250 blaster, odds are its ported, and probably at least 30 hp. Not to mention it weighs 70 lbs less. Since your banshee is stock, yes, I would put my money on the blaster. Buy some pipes and you'll leave him in the dust.

It has nothing to do with 2 stroke or 4 stroke. 4 strokes have a crankcase vent hose that a 2 stroke doesn't. The problem is that water wasn't a consideration when they designed the banshee (same as pretty much any high performance quad). It CAN be fixed. That being said, if you want a boat, get a utility quad. You need to water proof the carbs whether you have TORS or not. The carb vent hoses aren't that important, just loop them so an air bubble will stay in that loop. Make sure that no water can get it near the throttle cable. You'll want to fix the vent on the bottom of the airbox (seal it up). The airbox lid isn't bad, it routes the air to the back of the box behind the filter, so splashes of water aren't a big concern. The other thing is the electrical connections. The spark plug caps aren't that great, NGK makes replacements that seal pretty good. Make sure the stator cover gasket seals well, seal up the wire going into that cover (its grommet isn't great). Then just get some waterproof connectors for everything else electrical. That liquid tool handle stuff might work well.

Noboy is answering because NOBODY knows the answer to this question. Your trying to just combine different pieces from different places and hope they all work together to give you this awesome setup for cheap. That isn't going to happen. Stock banshee shocks are 14.75 inches. YFZ shocks are 15 something inches. They barely fit. YFZ arms MIGHT let you go with slightly longer shocks, but the shock mount isn't moved significantly. You aren't going to fit even banshee long travel shocks. Stick with Banshee shocks on a banshee.

You're extending the wheel further out from the spindle (same thing as wheel spacers). You're increasing the leverage, and therefore you are increasing stress (its just like slipping a pipe over a wrench handle). You might go for years without problems, then again you might just break the spindle in a month. That has happened, I've seen the broken spindles. It could be a balljoint that eats it. Do it if you want, but its not the best way. Oh, and it is very possible to jump the hell out of a stock shee. I took mine on the track all the time with stock shocks. They would heat up quick, so you only get a couple good laps. And you've got to nail the landings.

Well its a part you'll never see, its non-moving and non-load bearing. So spending all the money on a billet plate is a waste. Thats why he recommended the cast plate, its cheaper.

List price on a full set of yfz a-arms is about $900 from a dealer.

You bought new 450 a-arms for your banshee? For that price you could have gotten Roll Design a-arms, or Laegers, or anybody elses.

You most likely won't get much if any longer shock travel. The other problem with long travel setups is that you lose the natural progression of the suspension. The one saving grace of the banshee front suspension is how close to the frame the shocks are mounted on the a-arms. The closer the shock mount on the a-arms is to the frame, the more progression you get. The first bit of shock travel corresponds to alot of wheel travel (making it soft at first). As the a-arms move through their motion (and the arms come closer to a 90 degree angle with the shocks) less wheel travel uses the same amount of shock travel (so the last couple inches use more shock travel). When you get long travel shocks, you lose this progression because the shock mount is moved further out. You get more springs (going to a triple or quad rate setup) but that ends up simply making up for the progression you lost with the stock setup. The suspension companies don't want people to realize this because they're making money on the bigger shocks. Thats why it took hydrodynamics so long to come out with a long travel setup. They knew that long travel setups weren't offering any benefits. But everyone else had the consumers convinced that long travel was better and they were losing money.

Most long travel setups don't even increase your shaft travel, you simply get a longer shock body that can fit more springs. I do agree with spend the money if he has it, but spend it in a better place: shocks. Personally I don't care for elkas, you can search and find out why, Im not going into it here. Oh and chevy, You can get triple rates for a banshee from PEP :biggrin:

Save your money and go with standard +2+1 a-arms and shocks. You aren't getting any more travel out of the long travel a-arms, your only getting longer shocks. The only way to gain wheel travel is with wider a-arms, all +2 arms (lt or not) will give you roughly the same amount of travel. You want a better riding setup, get standard arms and better shocks, something like Axis, PEP or TCS. Any time you buy a kit like Janssens, your buying 1 size fits all shocks, they might take your info on your riding style, but the shocks are already made and sitting there. And a-arms can't change bump steer one way or the other. Bump steer is all in the spindles and frame design. No one brand of a-arms will handle any better than any other, assuming they are both +2+1. You pay for quality, and in some case (Roll Design) the name.

No problem :thumbsup: Just think of me as that warning label that we all ignore. Im there to stop the short bus people from killing themselves (now that I think about it, maybe that wouldn't be such a bad thing after all :shrug: )

I haven't knocked a single member that Im aware of. I was speaking in generalizations, not speaking about anyone in particular. And I was only mentioning age because GENERALLY SPEAKING the people that come on here and don't know anything are young kids. I wasn't speaking about only kids, I was talking about anyone (of any age) that comes on here and doesn't know what a powerband is. You (and a couple others) seemed to latch on to the age statement and ignore the rest of what I said. IF YOU KNOW WHAT A TORQUE WRENCH IS, THEN I WASN'T TALKING ABOUT YOU. Look at the thread title "Whats the difference between the 450 arms and a set of aftermarket arms?" The feeling I got from reading this thread was that 450 arms are as good as aftermarket, and cheaper (which would make them a better choice). I don't think anybody actually said that, but thats the message that seems to come across. Im not trying to stop anybody from doing this, I just don't want people to be convinced that they are better off doing this instead of saving their money. If you could save up enough money in a couple of months to buy aftermarket arms and shocks, and you ride in anything other than sand dunes (and before anybody jumps off the handle, im not implying anything about you duners other than you ride in smooth terrain) then do it. I promise that you will appreciate the difference, and you will be happier down the road.

Did I ever mention your name? Did I even try to imply that I was talking about you? NO I didn't say ALL teenagers, I was talking about the ones that come on here asking what a powerband is. The ones that don't necessarily even reply to a thread like this, but think its a good idea and go try it. The kind of people that won't think to put the dust caps on the arms, or forget the bushings. Theres plenty of ways to screw this up. Notice I said "Sure if you do it right, and know what you're doing, it will most likely be fine."

Because its a hack job. Sure if you do it right, and know what you're doing, it will most likely be fine. But think of all the people that come on here knowing nothing. All the kids not even 18 yet that don't have much if any mechanical experience but think they know/can do anything. And the adults who really just don't know much (sorry, but all of us started somewhere, and had no idea). These people come on here and are bombarded with all kinds of information from everywhere, its overload. Then when you come on here and try to convince everybody that a setup like yfz a-arms is every bit as good as aftermarket (but waay cheaper), they think they've found a gold mine. They take a hack saw, cut the arms until they fit, and the second they can get the bolt through there, they bolt everything up and go riding. And wonder why they wreck. Thats while I'll keep starting this over and over until you all listen. You will convince these people (many of whom have the money and are willing to buy aftermarket arms) that this shortcut is a better solution. And its NOT. Its cheaper yes, but thats it.

Couldn't have said it better myself. And to add a couple things in there, Alba doesn't make their a-arms, they are made by Epic (goldenwest sells them, as does atvsuspensiontech.com). And the upper yfz a-arms are aluminum. And finally (cuz it seems like a few people still don't get this), yfz a-arms do not change your suspension geometry. The banshee suspension design still sucks no matter what a-arms are on it. Its all in the frame.

Any good size chain is more than a match for a pair of bolt cutters. You'd have to grind it, and it would take awhile. I would take a good size chain over a cable.

CDI = Capacitor Discharge Ignition Its your ignition box, plain and simple. Thats all it does. You can't run without one. In vehicles with a rev limiter, its programmed into the CDI. The banshee does have a rev limiter that is activated when the parking brake is engaged, but thats it. There is no high-rpm limiter. The engine will rev as high as it is physically capable of doing.