Malott 1

Man when this thread started I thought it was just somebody screwing around. Guess not.

Unless your stock radiator is messed up the cheap route is to just run the stock radiator and drain all the coolant and run engine ice. You will get the same results and it will save you about $300 if not more.

I went out and looked at mine and it's 3/4 inch ID braided if that helps.

The clear with the white looking mesh in it is what you want. The only thing is the end that goes on the water pump you will have to use a heat gun so you can stretch it over the nipple on the water pump. I ran mine all year last year with no problems.

You guys better stop before you give him a big head!!!

loco is there anybody around her locally that runs a passion motor? I don't remember anybody at the track last year.

When we head down there the raptor comes out. And having someone bring a 4 wheel drive utility quad with us doesn't hurt either.

We had a group down at deepwater today and the trails were actually pretty nice. Wasn't very much mud and was able to get into alot of areas that it use to take a 4x4 to get into.

We use type f in the drag bikes but it's changed pretty often. I change mine out after every weekend of racing since it is so cheap.

Someone has been selling those on ebay for $20 for top and bottom. I bought mine at Home Depot and I am pretty sure it was cheaper than $5 dollars a foot. You might want to check there first.

I have heard stories about people lightening their flywheels and they granade on them. I have never seen it but heard that from several people. Once you lighten your flywheel you are going to take away from that rotating mass that gives you torque off the line. If you don't weigh very much you might be alright but if you are a heavy rider it might hurt you more than help.

If anyone asks about them I will let you know.

I am running them on a full drag ported 350 on alcohol and they run great. The reason I was thinking of selling I had thought about buying a set that both pipes come out the same side.

I am thinking about selling a set of small bore out of frame cpi's. They are the ones on the bike in my pic. 300 shipped. They are raw.

There is alot of builders that do a hell of a job on the cheetah like loco listed. If you want information on the T-REX you should call K&T.

With the mods you have listed even running bigger carbs you should still think about putting a pingle petcock on your bike. If you are running that bike hard enough to empty the bowls just putting bigger carbs on won't make that much of a difference. The problem is the stock petcock is to restrictive. The pingle has two outlets to feed both carbs independently. On a stock bike a stock petcock is fine but a modified motor takes more fuel than the stock petcock can flow. I am suprised you haven't had a melt down yet running one cylinder out of fuel.

Put some pressure on it with the puller and give it a few light taps with a brass hammer.

Best bet would be to go up a size on your pilots.

I kind of think the last post says what dtm03 and I both were saying. I agree with him about the cheetah and displacement. If I was running a hill I would definitly go with the cheetah due to the torque but if on a track I don't think there would be enough of a difference up to a 10 mill to justify the extra cash spent. Just my .02

their is some good info about this topic on planet sand. A couple of posts about stock cylinders vs aftermarket and in the dyno section. I copied a post that calvin and another person states about the cub and cheetah. Malott has forwarded a link to a post entitled 'Re: 14 mil cubs' on 'Planet Sand Forums'! The post is below. You have received a notification about this post from Malott: The actual post is below </font><blockquote><font class="small">Quote:</font><hr /> The Cub is a "less expensive" way to get good power, if you already have some of the pieces, like an aftermarket head, reeds and manifolds for big carbs, it will be the cheaper way to go. You will notice that I didn't say it will be the best running way to go. The Cubs are running very good, but the big Cheetah will put out better numbers than the Cub. If you need to buy the head, reeds, manifolds, anyway....the cost is pretty close to the same to go with the Big Cheetah or the Cub. <hr /></blockquote><font class="post"> I couldn't agree more Calvin. From what I've seen, when you get to a +10mm stroke, the big cheetahs really start to shine over the cubs. I know there are a bunch of good dyno number claims on 10mil cubs, but what are they actually running at the track? Scotty2hottys made 133hp and ran 3.88 at 84mph. Not bad at all. But for comparison sake, look at Triple's son's bike, it's a +9mm big Cheetah with 74.5mm bore (549cc). It runs consistant low 3.70's at 87mph with Donnie riding it, and with Seth's 260lb butt on it, it still runs 3.90's at 87mph. Triple also had a +10mil big cheetah 73mm bore (535cc) 2 years ago that ran consistant low 3.70's. I think 3.80's for 10mil cubs is about right on. When you start talking about 14 and 16mils, the cubs won't do what the big cheetah will. What's the saying "no replacement for displacement". That kinda applies here. View this topic on the web at http://www.planetsand.com/ubbthreads/showt...p?Number=385742

Dan Hull from A&S is who told me to stick to a cub unless I was going over 10 mill. I have a feeling he knows what he's talking about.

top notch crank-http://www.twistercrankshaft.com/

I run the benol to and like it. I had a buddy that was runing I think it was called blenzal. And it has a good smell to it. Don't they make a fuel fragrance to mix in with your fuel for this very reason? I thought I had seen it on ebay before.

I don't know. I don't think Jim has posted a schedule yet.

It is cheaper to build a cub then a cheetah. The only time you need to go to the cheetah is above the 10mm, the 10mm cub actually makes about 4 Hp more than the bigger cheetah.