Malott 1

http://www.jjandaracing.com/ flush mount valve stems.

that would probably be the best way. Alot less mess and not nearly as painful when that paint stripper hits your skin.

I used this stuff called aircraft remover. I bought it at Oreillys. It is just like an industrial strength paint remover. You definitly don't want to get it on your skin. I just sprayed it on and let it set for about 5-10 minutes then just wiped them off. I have heard of people using oven off oven cleaner. I don't know about that but that aircraft remover will definitly take it off. You want to make sure you don't get it on anything you don't want paint removed from because it will take it off fast.

Definition of superlight jockey. 90 pound kid. Im not Jeff but I thought I would help you out. 1100 for proven top end isn't bad. If you figure a cub topend is going to cost you more than that with the pistons and porting. But I guarantee you will never worry about nickasil peel with these stock cylinders.

These cylinders run awesome. Whoever ends up with them will not be dissapointed.

contact FASTOYS on here he has them.

Keep up the good work Brendon. I have ran inframe cpi's out of frame cpi's and now these hand made small bore shear pipes and found these have performed the best.

If you are a planetsand member contact Hendersonracing. They will give good deals on nx kits. That is what alot of the guys are running. Their web site is http://www.hendersonracing.net/. The best way to run them is on a wide open switch in your thumb throttle housing. Also doesn't hurt to have another switch in your clutch so you can hold the clutch in and clean the bike out without spraying it. If you do it right their is quite a bit to it. Regulating bottle pressure, placing a battery on the bike. And alot of practice with jetting. Replacing reeds often. I've thought about putting a kit on mine but seeing what some of the guys have to go thru I think it would be less hassle to just build a bigger motor.

You should contact calvin. I have heard alot about the cylinders lately leaking but it has been the cubs I have been hearing about. If you are on your 4th motor something is going on that Calvin should know about. I am sure since this is his product he can answer any question you have.

Alot of you guys probably already know this but for those who don't I thought this gearing chart might help. This will help you figure out your speed. http://home.earthlink.net/~gellett/banshee.htm

I think your problem is those tires. I have heard alot of guys say that run those tires that depending on what you are running on they will hook real hard. That MIGHT be why you are having trouble getting off the line. I looked at your mods and I assume you are running on gas? My opinion is you should try to run a larger sprocket on the back. I think 38 is to tall a gear for those tires and gas. On my bike I run 12 paddle superlites on a full drag 350 on alcohol. I have a 8 over arm and run anywhere between 15-44 to 15-46. Your tires have a tendency to hook harder than alot of people think. You could have some tuning issues but I think it is gearing. I read on here where some guys are running a larger front sprocket but I doubt they are turning a tire that grips like yours will. Maybe they are but more than likely they aren't. Just my .02

if you want to run 32-1 just add about 8 more ounces of oil to your gas.

Here is a post off Planetsand. This just shows a builders opinion of the oils he has used. *************** Just generally- I think that an oil's ability to protect during storage is as or even maybe more important than any other characteristic of the oil. I have only ran into VERY limited cases where I thought an oil should have protected the piston from scuffing. Therefore you are more likely to run into engine problems with an oil that fails to leave an adequate corrosion preventative film during storage. This would seem to agree with whats being said in the thread- that the oil is failing to protect. This would seem to also work with what some other tuners have said- if its TC-W3 run it and run lots of it. As an engine builder, I run all sorts of oils to try them out- absolutely eliminates any doubt in my mind what an oil is or is not doing for me. Run them for a season and inspect for wear at the end of the season. Ive been doing that for about 10 years now- both in my sled and my two stroke ATV. Ive tried around 10 different brands of oil in that time period. I cant make a recommendation to my customer without knowing what an oil is doing first. I keep the pistons and make notes in my book of brains: *Golden Spectro- seems to protect well enough, wear is acceptable, but a tad "dirty" for my liking *Bel Ray MC1- storage protection seems OK, wear is very good. *Torco GP7- does not storage protect well enough, wear is very good. *Maxima Super M- does not storage protect well enough, wear is acceptable. *Maxima 927- excellent storage protection due to the castor oil, wear is very good, but very dirty due to the castor oil. Its my choice for methanol burning motors. Methanol attracts water- so any extra help we can get is good. *Klotz R-50- does not strorage protect well enough, wear is very good, a little dirty in mild motors *Klotz Techniplate Snowmobile- storage protection seems OK, wear is very good *Motul 800 2T- does not storage protect well enough on alum. parts, bearings are acceptable, wear is absolute the best. Definitely my favorite oil for race motors. *Blue Marble- storage protection is the worst Ive seen, wear is acceptable, this is the oil that I feel failed to prevent scuffing. *Amsoil Series 200- storage protection was not adequate, wear was good. *Yamalube 2R- storage protection is very good, wear is very good, moderately clean. My choice for oil in everything but the race motors. *************** There are several exceptionally good and well respected engine tuners that I know that run Penzoil outboard oil in all their super zoot race engines without any issues related both to protection in storage and protection while running! Something to think about there....

That is a very good oil.

You don't need it. Just cut the recovery hose so it will hang right over the front part of your engine so if it overheats it will hit the pipes and you will see the steam. We ride our dune bikes all day long with no problems at all. Engine ice and proper jetting and you should be fine.

12 paddle

Just think A&S and K&T will probably get faster. Probably not showing their full potential yet.

75 dollars might be a cheap investment and peace of mind instead of a whole new top end when you runner her empty at the end of the strip.

wes on my trail bike I took the check ball out of the stock gas cap and got rid of the air bubble problem.

If your running alcohol 38's would be fine. On gas that might be another story. Hard to over carburate on alcohol but pretty easy on gas. Kind of hard to explain someone else might be able to word it better but if you have a small carb you have more velocity moving in due to the small entrance. Larger carb you have volume but not the velocity. Now this is all on the start on the big end is another story. The cubs are desigend to handle big carbs but the stock cylinders aren't quite up to par with the cubs. Just my .02

sold

No, once keihins are converted that's it. If you want to be able to switch back to gas you need to look at getting mikunis.

These are like new they were set up by F.A.S.T. racing out of kansas (FASTOYS). They have powerjets installed and one float has been removed for more volume in the bowl. These carbs are in excellent condition. 250 shipped.

What material is your frame made out of?

A stock framed bike is kind of difficult to get set up at first for drags. You don't want to strap your front end down if you don't have to. That is what's going to transfer the weight back. In my opinion since you are running a ported 4 mill you really don't have enough tire. That's one reason you probably spun all the way down the track. I found on my stock frame the best set up was running the stock shocks on the front and putting a solid strut on the rear. And I ran 22x11x8 10 paddle superlites with 15-45 gearing. I had a 8 over arm. Most recommend that your wheelie bar be equal to the length of your bike. Going to a longer swingarm is definitly going to help with the transfer problem.