Malott 1

Did you check your float on the side that is overfueling? Your float just might need to be adjusted.

It adds about a 1 1/4" to the side of your clutch cover. You won't notice it. In my opinion it is money well spent. If you are running the lock up you can still run your stock springs then you don't have the heavy pull of the stiff clutch springs alot of people run and your clutch is going to last along time.

For example you could take several sets of say 22-11-8 10 paddle haulers off the shelf those tires run between about a 69-72 roll out written on the side. They are all marked 22-11-8 but the rollouts are all different. That's what I meant by tell them you want the largest roll out they have.

You're right I don't know I was just talking out my ass. For anybody that would like to know go to albaaction.com. Click on atv and on the left side of the screen there is 10 to things they can do to make your banshee FAST. Be sure and read number 3 Master engine tech can squeeze over 62 hp. Pay attention to number 9 400 stroker kit exact hp 67.9. And then the big one at the bottom their NOS kit. With a dyno chart to back it up 82.1 and that is on the stroker. If I spent that much money and that is all I got I would be one pissed off SOB. But what do I know.

Out of all the people you listed how many of those guys were running a two stroke? Alba and Trinity might be able to do good things with a four stroke but I think the point several of the guys have been trying to make is when it comes to two stroke motors there are several builders that are capable of building a better motor.

On skat-trak tires they will put the roll out number on the side of the tire example 22x11x8 10 paddle 72RO. Roll out is the distance all the way around the tire. When skat-trak changed carcass the new supplier for some reason has smaller roll out and are heavier. Which for someone who is racing doesn't like because you want the tire as light as you can get it and as tall as you can get it. If you order a set of skat traks from a dealer just let them know you want the largest roll out they have in stock. They could have 4 sets of the same size tires but actually they could all have a different roll out.

If you have a place around you that sells go kart parts you can get your wheel, hub and tire there. The wheel is a 5x4.5 and the hub has 5/8 bearing. The wheel and hub cost 44.00. They had some used tires and just gave me several tires. If you are interested in the number just pm me and I will get you there number.

If you are doing a 4mill cub all your builder would need is your cases to match the cylinders. Since he already has the cylinders and the crank. Won't cost hardly anything to ship a set of cases.

Is the cub a 65 or 68?

He's right the cubs are the best choice. Unless you are planning on building bigger than a 10 mill and shooting a bunch of big hills then you might want to look into the cheetah.

You might think about running a 21-12-8 tire maybe 8 or 9 paddle. Since you said you do some drag racing and hill shooting the 21 will help you out with that and still have fun on the trails. I don't know where you plan on getting them but you could probably call Jim at Jim's sandtoys and he could point you in the right direction.

Did you use a advance key or adjustable timing plate? If you used the key you might want to look into getting a adjustable plate. Those keys have a bad habit of shearing off and you can pick the plates up real cheap.

On the dune bike I run 15-45. Another place to get sprockets is www.sprocketspecialists.com.

If running on gas and you want a 22 inch tire you might want to stay with a 10 paddle. Goodluck running those tires on a stock swingarm.

Is this 10 mill going to be on gas or alcohol? A well tuned 10 mill on alcohol is going to put out probably around 120hp. I think the guys that are running bikes with that kind of power are running 25 inch tires. If you stick with 22's your going to need more than 12 paddle.

I think most 10 mill cubs are straight line bikes. A buddy of mine was running a 10 mill cheetah a&s did and he had to run a +10 arm. And had to have the wheelie bar on it. He tried a couple times out on the dunes without the bar and the bike was to violent.

Plan on replacing crank seals and possibly the crank itself once a month. If you are off the slightest bit the motor will remove the cylinders from the case by itself. Awesome power but to me not worth the hassle or risk.

I found that the brats gave me a better 60 ft. time than my 22-11-8 10 paddle superlites. My brats were stager cut and I duned those tires also.

Call sparks and get a head gasket from them and start running 110 and your head gasket problems will go away. I went thru that on mine. I just put a wiseco 440 kit with the 11-1 piston. Had the head ported shortend valve guides and the biggest cam web cam has. Pumped fuel in it thru a 41 fcr carb. A buddy has it now and he only weighs about 150 lbs. He gives guys fits down at the dunes. You have to figure porting is probably going to be around 400 maybe more maybe less. Hardend rockers which on the 400ex is a must and I think I paid a couple hundred for those. FCR carb was around 550. That's around 1200 or so and that doesn't include the sleeve and piston or having it done or the cam and valve guides. In the long run you would be better off buying a banshee or a yfz.

How much?

I had t5's before and really liked them. A friend of mine thought he was upgrading and bought the t6's and wished he would have stayed with the 5's.

I was actually refering to race-a-holic when I told him I would tell him how my stock frame bike was set up on the track if he needed any help.

Are you running paddles on your track? If you have any questions with your chassis set up pm me and I will be glad to tell you how my stock chassis was set up.

Trust me you will be in the mid 4's on the slowest tracks.