Malott 1

You can't beat that deal. If you look on K&T's web site the top end sells for 1900. A 10 mill cub cylinder cost right at a grand now. That's just the cylinder.

I run engine ice in my raptor and the first few times at the dunes I thought my fan had quit working. Before my fan seemed like it was on all the time but now it very seldom comes on. That stuff is awesome. I would put it in my shee but as often as I am checking things out and draining it cost to much so I just go buy the cheap pre mix at the auto parts store for the shee.

Did you ever notice your sparkplugs backing out on their own? That is a sign of detonation.

I am just running a 350. Yeah ksbanshee ordered one of SSR's suspended frames.

You might want to give Kim (K&T) a call and tell him what you bought and he can tell you what would be the best carb set up and pipe set up for those cylinders. He might give you a good deal on a crank.

I saw some pictures of some new cylinders cp is working on I think they may set a new standard for speed. I tried posting the pics but I can't get them to post. They are called caracal cylinders 1145 cc's. They have them posted on planetsand.

Do you still have the clutch basket and pressure plate? If so how much?

I just got the drag frame together. It hasn't been on a track yet. We usually run at Grain Valley Mo. We try to make 2 or 3 trips down to little sahara a year. Probably make more this coming year since Jim has the track up and going.

I wondered about the 39's. I asked a few builders about 39's and they told me if I was running a cub I would be fine but on stock cylinders they didn't recommend going over 36's.

Yeah it has the harley tranny in it.

That bike looks fast just sitting there. I heard that transmission cost a crazy amount of money. It's definitly going to be some good racing at the planet sand race coming up in LA.

It's one of G.T. Performances frames. I bought it from a guy out in Kansas. He goes by ksbanshee on planet sand. It's one of Garrets suspended frames. I just like running a solid strut on the back.

Like loco said the 4 mill would be the easiest. I know a couple of guys on planetsand that are tearing the tracks up with their 4mills in stock frames. If your motor is strictly for drag racing then you might want to consider building a bigger motor. From 4 mill up the guys are all running pretty much the same size carbs and the same pipes. The only cost difference is when you get over 4 you will have to have your cases trenched. And to be safe you would probably want to go with a billet crank. From twister they are a little over a grand. I hear alot of guys talking about their 4 mill hot rods cranks breaking.

What does that mean? I doubt you know me. I only know you because I was picking up my frame from Garrets when you were picking up that motor.

how much for the cub cylinder and 39's?

those pipes have been tested on his cubs. I have talked to a couple of his customers and Dan himself about those pipes and they all told me the same thing. About 8-10 hp more than the competitors.

Take the 600 you'll spend on the nos kit and buy a good set of pipes.

The smaller the rim the better. Just lower the air pressure in the tires. Think about a drag car leaving the line you can see the sidewalls on the tires twisting. When you have a large rim you don't have that much side wall since the rim is taking up alot of the area. Therefore you won't have the flex on the sidewall with the larger rims and it will alow the tires to spin easier.

7 mill to drag with you need to get rid of the single carb set up. Bogging on the bottom end and reving out on top sounds like the pilot is to small. The lock out is something you need for a drag bike. I run one on my 350 but once you go 4 mill and above you definitly need one if you are drag racing. Unless you like buying alot of clutches. The lockout wont stop you from shifting though. If the bike is just going to be used for drag racing you should put a override in it and all your shifting problems will go away. It will give you several bike lengths advantage also.

This is just a thought but have you ever seen a rim that has been drilled to fit 2 different bolt patterns? If you feel your rim is screwed up then you have nothing to lose. Take your hub off and set it on the rim and mark your new holes and drill them. Just split the diffenence between the original holes. If you screw up you were getting a new rim anyway.

With those 21 inch tires you'll be sandblasting the front of alot of frames. Those 21's usually only have about a 69 roll out. Alot of the guys that are running the 4 mills they run the 22 12 paddle superlites that have a 72-74 roll out. But they are running a longer swingarm. Your bike should definitly be a handful. I feel sorry for the people behind you.

odaen what size carbs are you running?

I like running alcohol. You get about 15% increase in power. It's cheaper than race gas but the downfall is you will go thru twice as much. But when you run alcohol your carbs have to be set up for alcohol. If you are running keihins once they are set for alcohol thats it. If you have mikunis you can change your dump tubes in and out so you can switch them back and forth. I run mine in the dunes and on the dragstrip and I have no problems. I just keep a fuel can close by. And when I am done riding I drain the carbs and the tank poor about a couple quarts gas oil mix in and let her smoke like crazy till she dies. Then plug the pipes and vent tube up till the next ride.

After running on methanol you have to purge your motor. We like to purge with a 16-1 mixture with high octane pump gas. The problem with mixing methanol with your gas you will have methanol left in your motor and it will draw moisture like you couldn't imagine. It won't take long to destroy your crank and everything else in contact with the methanol.