Malott 1

It's hard to say what might be the cause till you get it apart. While you have it down you might if you haven't already have the crank checked out and welded.

This might help. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...splitting+cases Lift the crank out and remove the nut on the end of the crank. Remove the gear and this will allow access to the seal. It's not as hard as it sounds. Just take your time.

5,7 and 10 are the same price. http://webforce.nwrain.net/founder/twistercrankshaft/

This is just a suggestion but I have only seen one 5 mill and it is an older bike. You might want to call around and ask some builders what kind of experience they have had with that crank. Or who is the manufacture of those cranks your builder sells? You could call crankworks or twister and ask them.

I know with my bike I have seen it drop about 10 degrees but still be warm enough to be in a t-shirt and had to go up a couple sizes on pilots just to have any bottom end. I told myself then if I need anything more than a light jacket I don't even start mine. But that's just experience with my setup. Man 19 degree weather on alky that would be deep pockets and big balls. :biggrin:

I have seen a 5 mill run. The funny thing is I posted in the video section of a test and tune pass and that bike was the one I was running. What exactly are you wanting from your motor? Just a drag motor or somewhat of a trail bike?

I see your from california and wondered what your definition of cold weather is? The reason why I ask is because cold weather and alky does not go good together. You start the day off and it's warm and sunny bikes running good then the sun sets and temp drops and the next thing you are trying to figure out what jets to use.

If your on dirt running dirt tires and your banshee doesn't want to pull in fifth it sounds like what loco said a jetting issue.

Did you have the crank trued and welded before you installed it. If not and you don't already have it all together it would be a wise low cost investment.

I have ran cpi and now have shear out of frames. CPI's will pull a little harder out of the hole. But there has been alot of dyno's posted showing the curve of both pipes and practically all of them show the shear pipes keeps making power in the top end after cpi's fall off. Both pipes are good pipes and I have seen certain bikes that the cpi's turned better times than the shear. I have a couple of friends that have recently purchased huge motors from K&T and the pipes they send with them are CPI's. If you go with the shear same side and your going to be out in the dunes be prepared for the pipe mounts to break that's a given. And it sucks after you fork out all that money for a nice chrome finish and someone has to go in and weld a plate for a new mount. Their mounts are brased on and they will not hold up to alot of movement. I know from experience. I love my out of frames but my bike is strictly a drag bike on the track. I am one who feels the louder the better. But if you plan on spending the majority of the time in the dunes an inframe pipe will give you alot less headaches. I know a guy who had a 4 mill stock cylinder bike that tried both inframe and out of frame pipes on a 300ft track and there was only a couple hundreths difference in his times. Just my .02

Are you running a cool head? Possible you have a oring problem.

Is your override 2-5? Do you leave the line in 2nd? If your answer is yes to these what we do is just remove 1st gear.

Factory rubber orings?

If you are talking about the melt down comment I thought you were looking into a cub. A cub likes fuel and on wide open runs down a fireroad you might have a issue on a big motor running the bowls dry. That is what I meant by melting down. Sorry for the confusion.

If you have a builder in mind you might want to contact them and see what they suggest would fit your needs. I have seen alot of 4mill cubs running strong in the dunes and on the trails in the dunes. I know there is alot of guys on here who ride there cubs with short swingers like you are talking about. But I wouldn't want to be on a 10 mill cub unless it had a +8 arm. Your body weight and frame setup is going to play a big factor. Since you are experienced with high horsepower bikes you understand that a smaller motor in a proper setup frame can out perform a big motor in a poor frame setup. And if you plan on running long fireroads on a 10 mill to be safe you might have to run a pump to keep from melting the top end down.

Honestly you would probably be better off to contact direct drive and buy the kit. http://www.directdrivecnc.net/products.html

We use Haulers(straight paddle) for everything.

It's a different cast cheetah. I think they have cr500 intakes and huge bores. There is a pic of one over on planet sand down in members rides.

sand.... :sad:

I usually don't run rear plastic on my drag bike. But I had a blue rear down stairs and thought I would try painting it. I wiped it down with prep sol and hung it from the rafters in the barn. I then put a tack coat of the fusion paint on then continued with coats till I had it good and wet looking. I used about a can and a half on the rear alone. As soon as it started getting tacky I put another coat on. Then used a regular air paint gun and sprayed about a gun and a half of automotive clear coat. Looks like glass.

Being in shape is definatly key. I tried a harescramble about 4 years ago and I was on a 440ex. I felt like I was in good shape and when I got there I thought I would be slick and sign up in the senior division. Figured this will be easy. WRONG!!!! When they scanned my helmet I was praying she was going to tell me I was done but instead it was GO you made it in time for one more lap. I almost pulled off and put it on the trailer then. When it was all done I couldn't hardly get off the quad.

The clutch arm isn't getting caught on the bottom of your carb is it?

Are you running big bore or small bore pipes?