Malott 1

A friend of mine just had K&T build him the same size motor but he went with the twister cylinders. I couldn't believe the size difference between what people are normally use to seeing compared to motors like yours. K&T runs mikuni carbs and when I reached in there and pulled that carb out of the box I couldn't believe the size of the carbs it takes to fuel a motor like that. I don't know which carbs you plan on running but if you end up with mikunis to fuel that beast you should post a picture of those compared to a normal carb. After his first pass on that 18 mill the only thing he could say is "that thing pulls like a freight train".

Nitro Methane- if you don't mix that stuff properly you will find it does a little more to a motor than make a little more performance. Plan on tearing the motor down soon and putting new crank seals in and if you mix it wrong you will probably be able to see a space inbetween your cylinders and cases when you get off to see why the bike just grenaded. Good luck.

We run the cheap ones on our drag bikes and our dune bikes and never have had an issue with them. We might just be lucky but never had any problems.

Before you pull the tank and take the petcock out of the tank just take the fuel line off the carbs and turn the valve on and see if any gas is coming out.

Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get you some aluminum flat bar. It's real cheap and just put it in a vise and bend it however you need to to get the pipes lined up right. Put some rubber grommet between the pipes and mounting bracket to take care of the vibration and keep you from busting the mount off the pipe.

:beer:

Are you sure that silicone wasn't yamabond? It is a common sealant used on the cases, base gaskets and even reed gaskets. I would take it back to D&M and let them look at it. From what I hear they are a reputable shop and will probably stand behind it if it is something they did.

Benoil 32-1. Then I purge that day with 16-1 benoil/gas.

I've heard of lightend flywheels coming apart but this is the first one that I have actually gotten to see. That sucks. I don't know if I will lighten mine now or not.

I ran them on my play bike in the dunes and loved them. I switched that bike to 21-12-8 10 paddle haulers and I think those brats hooked harder. They were a lot lighter also. Here is a pic of mine they were stagerd cut.

Vito's power pistons have short skirts which will allow the piston to rock back and forth in your cylinder wall. I think in the beginning they were popular but once they checked the cylinders later on they realized the piston was causing the cylinder wall to be wavy. I know from experience.

wanting to build a bigger motor.

These were some of the best tires I ever used in the dunes. They were on my stocker. I finally found a pic.

Im considering selling my complete topend. Polished full drag ported cylinders. Alcohol domes (coolhead) Pistons size 65.50. Vito's billet intakes. Keihin air stryker alcohol carbs 35mm. With pill type powerjets. Will also include crank trued and welded. This motor ran low teens. Would like to sell as a whole package. 1500.00

I agree but with his mods, swingarm length and weight he might spend more time looking at the sky or on his back. :biggrin:

If the headlights were working before than this would lead me to believe that your problem is electrical and your carbs might be fine.

On my stock bike my mods where stock cylinder just had vitos power pistons in it, v-force 2 reeds, stock carbs with the tors removed and inframe cpi's and a cool head. I had a +6 arm on it. I went down one tooth on the front from stock gearing. I ran 21-12-8 10 paddle haulers. It was a handful at night down there at little sahara in the trails but I really didn't have any trouble turning them. I also had a set of Paddla Brats that were lightened and stagerd cut and they hooked like a mofo and was awesome in the trails. But the Brats are very expensive. I just went back and read your post again. I missed the 145 lb part. Yeah I weight a little over 200 and needed to layover the front. Yeah you might want to stay with a 8 paddle.

For a motor like that call Kim at K&T he will set you up with the whole package. Their big motor packages he will build the carbs and pipes specific for your motor. ktperfomance.com

I have bought my 20 inch and 21 inch rear haulers from rockymountainatv.com before. But I buy all my 22 inch drag tires from Jim down at Jims Sandtoys , waynoka oklahoma.

The switch I had under the seat was like a regular toggle switch but it had a rubber cover that slid over the switch to keep water from getting in. At the bottom it actually had a nut that screwed on to the switch to hold the rubber sleeve down over the switch.

That bike you saw this weekend might of been GT Performances old bike. A guy out there in VA bought it. Someone said Lewis was riding it this weekend and it went 3.4-3.5.

On my stock frame I removed mine and used my tether to kill the motor. I put a waterproof toggle switch under my seat so if I was riding at night I would just flip the switch and my lights where on anytime the bike was and during the day I just turned the switch off.

I have a buddy that wanted to switch his rims around on his 4 stroke. He took the tires off and removed the valve stem then put the valve stem back on inside out. Looked like he just plugged the hole. He then drilled the other side of the rim and pulled a valve stem thru that side. It sounds like alot of work but he is a tight ass.