Shee-Male

I belive the acctual figure is 4 mph gain.

"ass monkey"...well that was uncalled for!

The PT's have excellent fit and finish and the power band rolls on real smooth and strong, not to mention they're light weight!. My buddy and I have the exact same mods except I have FMF fattys and he has PT high revs, my shee is real peaky and snappy (more "light switch" like) and his rolls on sooooo nice, I really like them, they'll be my next pipe for sure!

a little bit but still heavy, I also like the tires but they just waste power.

32:1 for ever, it dosen't heart to have extra lube, espesally if you plan on riding long high speeds and rpms

6 in one, half dozen in the other.

Check your piston skirt dia. just below the pin with a micrometer, if you don't have one and don't care to invest in one then go to a local machine shop and have them measure it, then have them check your cyl. @ the top mid. and bottom with a bore guage to see if there is any taper. A vernier won't tell you anything since it will only read the top of the bore that dose'nt see any piston ring wear but insted collect carbon. If your useing a forged piston 3-4(max) thou. is ok, remember a forged piston will be undersize at room temperature so ifyour around 3 that would be perfect, but I would have a local shop check it, I dought they'd charge you anything, I don't for a lookie-boo!

I did my reeds after seeing the roostfest site and it gave me a "seat of the pants" improvement, I was quite impressed. Another mod you can do is deck your stock head .025-.030, I did mine witth CBN tooling on a resurfacer for a super smooth finish, you can also use a surface grinder. I also found the irrideum NGK spark plugs to work extreamly well. Ans if you havn't changed your filter do that, and of course pipes are a must.

Na, even old fmf's hit. I'm not trying to determine what fits I,m trying to find a "proper" pipe, "it rips" dosn't tell me anything, have you dynoed it? besides a rz motor is way different, sure there both 350cc's but there is nearly a 20 hp differance, a two stroke is way different than a 4 stroke because of the expansion chamber, if you cut out 2 inches out of it what happens?, how about 2 & 1/8? or what about 1 7/8? why 2"?. I guess what I'm trying to determine is chamber volume and try to match it I only whant to do it once and properly! I don't whant to settle for close or good enough.

Ok I'm really in a indecisive bind here, I going to do the rz conversion on my banshee but I don't know what pipes to run. The thing is the rz motor is way differant than the oem banshee motor so I don't see how a "banshee pipe" would be sufficient, I may even loose hp? not to mention what happens after porting, expansion chamber size is critical, so what I'm wondering is if there is some sort of formula or software that can tell me what direction I should be looking in? Dose anybody have dyno charts, mag articals or know of a acctual rz bansee pipe? or a shop that specializes in this? What to do???

I am also interested, but I live in Canada so shipping might be costly?, do you offer an exchange? Or will you post a new "how to", I work in a machine shop so it wouldn't be a problem for me.

that's acctually kinda clever and funny

rip it down, cut corners now and you'll be payin for it later. May as well get your crank welded wile your in there!

GBC shredders, very perdictable, hook up like crazy and cheap to buy!

Is your TORS disconnected?, if not it it will act up when you have the shee vertical. And besides everyone is right a banshee dosn't make any power or torque for that matter under 2500 rpm

Do one at a time and watch for the little spring under the pilot screw, other that that there pretty simple.

Before I got rid of my f**kin UNI I had little peices of foam stuck in my carb, one peice even made it into the needle and seat and the bike ran hard until the fuel bowl was empty then it would die, wait a couple of mins and it would do it all over again, pull you bowl and float and have a lookie-boo.

I'm 220 and I'll never go back to a stock flywheel!

re-torque the head and jug bolts, check to make sure all clamps, lines, bolts & choke tube are all snug and in place, then warm the bike up and ride it a bit and then see what it dose.

Rear tires, teather, nerfs,gearing, and rear shock for starters.

Spec 2 makes adaptors, but if you can weld you can do it yourself, I have a complete rz if you need any pics of how things are mounted on the bike.

Did you use the rz trans? what gearing? I'm currently doing the swap.

I have the answer BR8EIX irridium....they work awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

All bends will fit, but its tottaly up to the rider, some like then narrow, somelike them wide etc etc. In the renthal catalog and same with tag there is all the dimensions of the bars ( I run OEM KTM fatbars w/+1" stem) I used to run the magrath bend. If you have a large wingspan try the ATV high bend? Your gonna have to try the feel of other peoples bars and make a desision. Its all personal preferance. Oh ya! acerabis makes a bar that is super adjustable buy having 2 pivot points and they fit 7/8 clamps, check them out.

Its polaby something in the needle and seat, what I do is shut off the fuel until it stops leaking then turn the fuel back on, the blast of fuel usually flushes it out