350Xhilaration

I'm thinking of getting a new air filter for my mostly stock banshee (FMF Gnarly and Turbine Core IIs). Right now it has an OEM filter and airbox. It's jetted spot on for no lid. I need to keep the box as I'm in PA and we have lots of mud/water and I don't want pods. I'm not looking for an increase in power, just a replacement that will fit in the stock box. I have the plastic "frame/cage" that the filter stretches over screwed to the black airbox so the seal doesn't come loose or the filter assembly doesn't fall off. Do the UNI filters slide over the existing white plastic frame/cage thing? Has anyone used the Readyfilter brand filters? Thanks for any advice.

Anyone have an OEM lever they want to sell? send price shipped to Ebensburg, PA 15931. Thanks

try www.3wheelerworldforums.com and my site...might get a better response. Good luck!

Sounds reasonable, but I'd prefer blue or black nets to match. Thanks anyway.

What brand nerfs? Price?

I just talked with Jeff for about 20 minutes. Gonna get things ordered next week. Might do the timing plate and shift spring at the same time. Gotta look into available funds. Thanks for the responses fellas!

I hit the link on the page and found these parts... Do you know who is the mfg of these parts? http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=34 One of the reasons I ask is I replaced the clutch last year in my 85 350X with Vesrah fibers and kept the stock steels and used new OEM springs. I'm not really thrilled with the outcome (at idle when hot will "chug" forward when clutch is disengaged - adjustment changes with operating temp) and I'm not 100% sure which of the parts is causing the problem (Vesrah fibers or using the original steels - or the combo of using old steels and new fibers.) and don't want to go through the time and expense of changing the clutch and having unsatisfactory results again. I think I'll shoot an email over to someone at F.A.S.T Thanks for the tip.

I'm going to be replacing my clutch on my stock (aside from pipes) 2000 banshee. It's not slipping yet, but there seems to be no adjustment left and it engages when the lever is almost completely released. Questions: 1. Are the stock metal plates aluminum or steel? 2. If they are aluminum, should I replace with steel? 3. OEM parts or aftermarket (remember all stock with no plans of mods) 4. If aftermarket, fibers and steels only or springs as well? (I don't like a heavy pull and don't need the uber clamping pressure) Any input appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Nice looking machine. Good price. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=110001849339

I'm looking for an OEM front rim for a Z400 or a matched pair of 4/144 10x5 rims. I believe many Hondas, Suzuki Z400, and Kawisaki KFX400 all share the same pattern. If anyone has what I need, please get in touch with me. rhuel.adams@gmail.com Thanks in advance. **Wheel found**

I havent checked the prices yet of a kit. I think my problem stems for the toe being improperly adjusted. When the handlebars and the left front wheel were pointed straight, the right front was pointing to the right more than it should. I'm thinking this put excess stress on the right front inner bearing. I have learned the quad was rolled once early in its life. The right front wheel was replaced along with the upper A-Arm. I'm thinking there may be something tweaked still. I adjusted the toe by eyeballing it last night. Anyone know what the toe specs should be? I mean at least negative or positive. I'm not putting it on a front end machine or anything. How much negative camber should these have as well? The right front seems to be laying in a bit more than the left at top too. Thanks in advance.

Answered my question too. Thanks. Those pics look like about ten minutes ago in my garage. Not the part about which way they come out, but I have a right front that is "growling" a bit. I pulled the hub off and I wasn't sure if the bearing had been overheated and somewhat seized to the hub or if they're a pressed bearing. Since I dont have a new pair on hand, I didnt pound too much with the drift to see if the inner bearing (the one that's making the noise- feels pretty "choppy" when turning it) would come out. Do these bearings have numbers stamped on them that can be cross referenced like most other bearings, or are they a Yamaha only part? Seals are fine, I just need a new inner bearing soon.

So far I love my gnarlys. I went for an hour long ride with my kids and a guy on a grizzly. My 5 year ols sat on the back with me and the 8 year old rode her DS90. I don't think I shifted out of first and hardly had to work the clutch. I usually take my thumper 350X, but I wanted to see how the banshee would behave at slow speeds. It did great.

rode this weekend with some guys/gal from ohio. got to launch the banshee a few times. hit my sig for link to some pics.

I just went through this over the last few days. I have a stock 2000 banshee, with TORS, Stock carbs and emgine, FMF gnarlys with Turbine core II spark arrestors, and a twin air filter. I put 260 mains in it and left everything else alone. With the lid and snorkel on, it was too rich. I pulled the lid and it runs like it should. I would say that I'm close but not perfect since I needed to pull the lid and snorkel. I'm at 2140 feet in western PA. it was about 75-78 degrees yesterday when I ran it. I am by no means an expert on this and you might seriously want to consider what the other guys on here say. I'm just sharing my experience with a similar situation. Hope you get it tuned soon. Mine really came alive after jetting it "properly" (still need to tweak it a bit)