trex banshee

unless your right crank seal is bad then you will get your tranny oil in the crankcase.

Thaught I would give this a shot I have had it on racing sites for a couple days and nothing. Anyways the fallowing parts I am selling for my brother they came out of his 436 small chevy he used for mudracing. the pistons and rods only have 36 passes on them. Rods: Groden aluminum small journal 6.3 long rod $600 obo Crank: Eagle 4 inch stroke large main standard rod, the crank can be turned down to fix the messed up journal and to fit the small journal rods. $100 obo Cams: Both are solid roller drag cams one is a Lunati and the other is a Crower. $100 for both obo. Pan: Doug Lee drag pro pan with the oil pump and pick up tube. $450 obo Pistons: I do not have pics of them yet cause they are in Joplin at Hatfield Racing but they are 4.165 JE 18 degree dome pistons they match the crank and rods. $300 obo He is also making a package deal available for $1200 obo we are located in Pleasant Hill Missouri and none of the prices include shipping. if you have any questions it would be best if you just called David at 816-826-6143. thanks and again the prices do not include shipping.

well hopefully everything will work out.

ok i just talked to him and he is shipping my crank out tomarrow. and he has been behind because he got hurt on the job. and WALLACE i think he was talking about you he has your money order but doesn't know what you bout so i would give him a call and anybody else who is conserned. 660-342-1000

ya me too i called the bank and the check cleared so i should have a crank comming. ill keep you guys informed.

I hope he comes through with everything cause he has my crank and 200 dollars. Hopefully he is just busy but brilei5 you say he is in KY is he on a trip cause his address is in missouri. its about four hours from my house.

well nothing personal but with your location your not going to get a whole lot out of it my gues would be anywhere from 2500 to 2800 just a guess. Not saying your bike isn't nice just the resale of atv's isn't a very good investment.

correction it would 14 up front and a 42 on the back 13/42 is 3:2

The track i run on is dirt so its going to be a little different but i was told a 3:0 gear ratio would be perfect where i race so that could be a good starting point. i believe that would be a 13 up front and a 42 on the back

hate to break it to ya but 3500 is still too much.

what are you asking for it?

glamisaurus do you have trex cylinders?

I was wondering the same thing????

must be the nature of the cylinders if they are stock for the trex(68mm) and port. mine would idle high for about 2 mins then calm down and idle perfect all day long and never load up and the plugs where always a nice dark. (i like being on the safe side.)

yes he does seem like a nice guy i still haven't completed my transaction yet but it is my fault. i have never had this much trouble before but again, it is my fault. I am just lucky that he is an understandable guy.

mine was always kinda weird when starting when i had it on gas. It didn't matter how cold it was i had to never use the choke, but when it was warm it would still start on the first kick. I ran 145 mains and 42 pilots at nearly 1000 ft elevation. and i had the needle in the middle position.

damn Travis i didn't know your bike was still a 350. your engine must be one of the ones Andy was telling me about. Anyways on the swingarm topic i got a +4 with my stock stroke motor and the only place i can get it to stand up is in the sand. I think my gearing has a big factor though.(17/41) but for this year its going to be bored to 68.5mm and a 4mill and a drag port with 13/42 gearing for the dirt, hopefully i won't need a longer swinger.

do you have his number? if not let me know i will give it to you i am sure he wouldn't mind to get his named cleared on here.

i would say to just give him another day and keep trying to get a hold of him. I traded cranks with him and i screwed the deal up because the money order got lost, and he called me and i got another sent out to him. he wasn't upset at all even though i would undstand if he was, so i would just give him some more time because he seems like a very understandable guy to me. and jason if you read this sorry for the confusion again. thanks for being reasonable.

you could always buy some replacement ball goints for a different type of A-arm.(the type that you screw in with a lock nut) and cut the stock ball joints off and do some modding. It takes some time but it can be done I have seen pics of it before and that is what i am doing right now.

sounds tome if it just backfired and now it doesn't pull as good you probably broke a reed on one side.

Hey anybody know the difference between popcorn and the Seattle Seahawks????? POPCORN BELONGS IN A BOWL.

read what you wrote, Trinity is not what they used to be.

I agree with NYUK i had to do the same thing i cut both ends of the bolt off with a grinder and cut off wheel but then took the a-arm to a vise where icould get more room and really wacked the shit out of it with a really big hammer and it finally came out. Then i just ordered a new bolt.

i have got a stock crank with high output TZ bearing on the power side and it is welded and trued every bearing has 20 hours on them except the TZ it is brand new, and $150.