Handyman

Not sure if this question was asked but....Do you have TORS still connected?? If so have you checked all TORS connections?

Where you located?? I may have something for you

Everyone here has made good points. In the end the overall decision is going to be yours. For my first ever off road vehicle was my '98 CR250 that I bought from a guy who raced it in the local races and yes it was fast. I have never ridden a dirt bike before and I think I made the correct decision. If I had bought a 125 I would have out grown the bike experience wise within 2 months. My 250 has only fouled maybe 5 plugs and that was when I learning how to ride it. Mine does not like the lower RPMS, it likes the higher RPMS, as most 2 stokes do. I have had no problems with my 250 what so ever mechanically, it has been a dream in that aspect. I also have a 99 banshee that I love as well. Even though I bought it 3 months ago and yet to ride it on the track because of a stupid airleak I could find untril 2 days ago it has been easy to work on. If you are going to do mainly trail riding in the higher elevations the 4 stroke would be the way to go because you won' t have to fiddle with the jetting like you would on the 2 strokes. The bigger cc 4 strokes are more forgiving for a first time bike and you can still keep up with the big dogs when you want to. I have both 2 strokes and 4 strokes in my garage so I have ecperience on both just like most people on this site. Ultimately.....If you get a Banshee, 250cc, 450cc or any bike with some balls just respect the power it has and you'll be ok. Before you go out on the trails take the thing out and ride it and do do certain things so see what the bike will do and how it reacts and how you react to what it's doing so you'll be prepared on the trails so you don't get hurt. Sorry if this was long. Good luck and have fun on when ever you buy

Check for an air leak......That's what my prob was after I did my top end rebuild. Also make sure all gaskets are in the correct spot and facing the right direction......Trust me sounds dumb and illogical but that's what the cause of my airleak was.....Make sure your carbs boot screw is tight.

Yes I experienced all this with my banshee and couldn't find the reason I was having so many problems. Well I finally found the problem.......an air leak.. Now I had to find the airleak....... 2 weeks later I found it. After installling a new top end all new gaskets and spending alot of time on here asking so many questions and yes some were quite dumb and illogical I started to look at all the things that we would over look and the book doesn't say to look at. Well to make a long story short. After having the left cylinder/carb problems and the symptoms were telling me the engine had an air leak I looked at every logical thing it could be. I even did the leak test and found nothing. So I took off the reed valves and looked at the cylinder to see if I had lost it. It looked good so when I went to put the reed valve and spacer back in I decided to take the 2 gaskets and swap them and turn them 180 degrees. Re-installed the reed valve and carb and started the thing back up.........it ran perfectly. I let it warm up since that's when the problems showed themselves and nothing. the exaust coming out the mufflers were strong and had even pressure. NO spitting, backfiring, bursts of hot air, nothing. So I took it for a ride down the street and it had so much more power through the power band. Took it for a 8 mile ride down some railroad tracks and it never gave me reason to turn around. I can not believe swapping 2 gaskets would make so much difference and give me such a head ache. I can now finally say thanks to everyone for helping me out. I learned a lot from everyone here and hope I can be of some assistance when asked. Now I'm ready for Pismo and Glamis.

now what would cause the RPMS to slowly rise it warms up...and when I hit the throttle the RPMs stay and then slowly lower....

I don't have TORS. Removed a long time ago

Went out for a quick spin on the shee and the problem I had came back along with a new one. The banshee revved kinda high and would not rev down. So I hit the kill switch to off position and it still ran, turned the key offand it still ran. I had it in gear and slowly let off the clutch and I started to roll. I then put on the brakes and dumped the clutch and killed it. kicked it again and it ran fine. Does anyone have any ideas?? If no the she goes to the shop on payday.

Those screws on top of the TORS housings will move the slides up and down like oyu said and they will work for a temp sync.

Sounds like a carberation problem. The jet that is parallel with the main jet is the pilot jet. I believe 340 mains will be too rich for a 0 elevation but then again with your port job that may be needed. I am running the same set up as you as far as exaust system and K&N filter pods but my jetting is a 290 main and stock needle in the 4th clip position from top and I'm at about 400ft above sea level. My air screws are turned 2 full turns from seated. I had some what the same problem as you and what I did was went and got a gallon size can of carberator cleaner dip and and took everything out/off the carb that I could and set the carb body in there and let it sit over night. I took it out the next day and cleaned it out with carb cleaner in a aerasol can and shot all the stuff out that may have been stuck in it. I used 1.5 cans. I put everythign back togetherand now it runs like a champ. I hope this helps

Are you still looking for a dirtbike? I have a roller with no handlebars, engine or wiring harness. If you are interested let me know.

Does the left cylinder seem to fire when idling and them when you open it up it seem to not fire after warmed up?? This sounds like the problem I'm having right now with mine and I think it has to do with the carberation. I just cleaned out my left carb and knocked sometihng loose because it's now running worse than yesterday.

The plugs are new right out of the box. I even tried the old ones. I just tried the choke method that was mentioned in an earlier post and that didn't work. I have now basically got it narrowed down to something electrical.

yeah I would definately put in a new top end at least some rings oif the top end is fairly fresh. I was running 110psi cold and it would drop to 100psi or below when warm and come to find out my rings had taken a shit on me.

I have a 99 and mine was running like shit too. The left side was acting really weird. Everyday it seemed to do somethig different. Check your compression becasue I lost my top end. Onc eI did that it ran beeter but not great all I have to do now is check the reeds so if I was you I would do what everyone suggested and check the reeds. If you find the problem let me know so I can fix mine

I know you people are probably getting tired of me and all my banshee probs but I ned some assistance. Wehn I'm at high RPMS in 3rd-6th gear it spits and backfires on me. I can't tell if it's backfiring or just spitting. It runs just fine in 1st- lower RPM's in 3rd but once the RPM's get close to red line is where the prob starts. I have a 290 main and I'm thinking of putting the 340's that I have in. Would this be a good idea or should I change the needle clip postion?? I also have another problem that I thnk is related. When I came back from the ride I was dumping fuel out of my over flow tubes from one of my carbs. I couldn't tell wheich carb it was coming from because I turned the fuel off since I was in my lawn. Any help would be appreciated.

The gaskets can only go on one way...The printed side could be up or down

from 0-5000ft above sea level and depending on what your mods are it is said that you runa 290 main with clip in 4th position. If you have a modded motor it is said to run a 340 main. Info came from Dyno jet stage 3 kit I bought.

Mods: pro circuit full exaust system K&N filter pods with no airbox Bored to second oversize from stock bore(64mm to 64.50mm) Wiseco pro lite pistons TORS elimintator kit

I went back to the original jetting from when I bought it. While I had the carbs aprt doing that I took it out. It may run the same if I put it back in with the priginal jetting. The jetting in it now is Main: 290 Clip pos: 4th from top Needle: 5N7 air screws: 2 full turns from seated

What happens if I leave it out??

Took the jet out and it definatly runs better. Not sure why it was there in the first place.

I was thinking the same thing since it cuts out.