Handyman

CPI's are no where to be found, unless buying used. The only eople who has a set is Cascade innovastions and I took one of their last 3 sets of CPI in frame small bore. Jeff at fast ran out the other day and CPI won't seel any until they fill the orders they have waiting to be filled...about 2 weeks from now. But Shearers on the other hand are abundant.

Well it now runs and I can already tell the power from this thing is insane. The CPI pipes were a bit of a bitch to go on but I got them on. The right header was not wanting to go on what so ever. Not sure what I did but it popped right on after I gave up and got the left side all bolted together. Looked everything over, put gas in the tank and it fired up on the 3rd kick. le it run for a few minutes looking everything over to make sure there were no leaks. The right side smokes a it more than the left and I think that's because I lubed up the exhaust o-ring with some 2 stroke oil. Took it for a spin down the street up to 3rd gear and down shifted to first to create the vacuum that Bansheeseat$$ was talking about and I boy there is some power in there that I'm already itching to tap into. First heat cycle done....couple more to go. I'll get pics once my camera charges up... I would like to say thanks to Bansheeseat$$ for giving me the oportunity to buy it from him and for ALL the seemingly dumb questions I kept asking, and I asked what I seemed to be dumb questions that only he would know and trust me for the first week I think I PM'd him everyday with a shit load of dumb questions. I bet he got on the HQ and saw I PM'd him again and I bet he was thinking..." Oh crap now what does want to know...." Anyways he helped a lot as well as a few of you here. OK time for heat cycle 2......

I think the stockers will work for now.. The only thing I'll be buying for this is some PC'd hubs from Kaotik1 and then some haulers or extremes....that I will need to do some more research on as far as which will be better to buy. I won't be doing any long full throtle runs the first few hours just because of the new top end. But I will by the end of the day...maybe....

:woot: Even better I have a railroad that runs next to my house I can run it all day there and not worry about neighbors getting pissed. As for the wide open throttle......With the way you talked about the motor I'm a little scared but I think my excitement will fix that once I get on it. Keep an eye open for a thread and a small of it's maiden voyage and to see how much duct tape, velcro and super glue I used to keep on it.

yup....The book states to start it up let it run till warm to the touch and then shut it down until cool. Start it again let it run until warm-hot to the touch and shut it down, re torque the nuts on cylinders and head. etc. etc. there's alot of stupid stuff in there to that you can skip......All it's doing is getting the rings to seat against the cylinder wall and create a good compression.

To get the piston rings to seat and to torque the head after the first heat cycle...I checked the head after every heat cycle for the torques

Yeah figured that's what I would do. I did the same thing with my '99 and have no probs either.....Tomorrow We'll see if it fires up.

NYUK is right on that one. I haven't had a problem with any of my neighbors. I don't do it often and I don't constantly rip up and down the street. I might do it once or twice but that's it. I have a field across the street from my house and that's where i do most of my full throttle screwing around. Once I get my P.V. running I will be riding up the street to beginning of the path that goes around the outside of the field but I also keep it in 2nd and just cruise over there.

Some have a nikasil plating or sleeves are made of nikasil....Can't remember which.

I worked with a guy that had his fall off the back of his truck the story goes.... He had 2 other quads in the back of his full size long bed dodge diesel and had his sideways on the tailgate. He was making the 3 hour drive from where he lives to El Centro(45 min. from Glamis). He got to El centro one quad short. The tiedowns he had tied it down with were all there and he didn't make any stops so it wasn't stolen. He figured it fell out somewhere. Back tracked the entire way and never found it and still had to make the paymetns....He bought it 2 days prior. He also had 3 other guys in the truck and no saw it fall out.

I should be getting my CPI's tomorrow. I can take pics after they are installed to show the amount of room there is with my filter pods etc...

My power valve has 170psi on 20cc domes(engine isn't broken in yet so comp will rise once broken in) and I'm at 200ft above sea level. Any thing above 160psi is race gas.

10 hours of riding for me is like 2 weeks....I might make it to like 3 hours of riding before my wrist gets a mind of it's own and twists the throttle all the way open.

I took a real small screwdriver and tapped them out. They're held in there by friction, but not a lot. Once on side comes out i pulled it out with pliers. A small punch or anything that is small enough will work...

Ok Now that I have some pipes on their way I now need one question answered??? Is there any special way to break in Cheetah Power valve motor?? All that was done was installation of new pistons, rings, needle bearing and wrist pin...typical top end rebuild. I broke in my '99 after I rebuilt the top end by doing the required heat cycles and by what the manufacture's manual states and haven't had any problems. I know Trinity has a write up on the break in process and the do's and don'ts but it states 10 hours of easy riding before really opening her up...Is that really necessay?? I did lube the cylinder walls with some 2-stroke oil before I installed the cylinders and I cycled the kicker a few times to make sure nothing was catching and everything moved fluidly. Just wondering if there were any "special" steps i should take in the break-in process.

Wow I did not realize fatties liked bigger pilots. If a bigger pilot is needed try a 27.5. I run Pro Circuits on my '99 and as you can see in my sig the jetting I run and it runs like a striped ass ape.

Well if you have more power with the stock pipes then something is terribly wrong. When you put the aftermarket pipes on did you rejet like you're supposed to?? That might cause the bog and crappy performance at low end. You should have rejetted to a 280-290. Doesn't sound like a lot but the smallest changes can make the shee run likle a whole new beast.

There are websites you can order those from. I know www.vitosperformance.com has them.

Ebay even states that if western union is mentioned that it's a scam...I had a buddy that was selling his laptop on ebay a few months back and got a couple emails from people saying that they would give him $1000 plus a 2 camels and 3 goats just to send their children to college. There were a few others that I can't remember that involved animals for a trade.

Well now that I'm now waiting on some pipes for my cheetah I think my shee needs some color on the all black plastics. I don't want anything too fancy. I would like some Yamaha decals in chrome and the color of my grill (since thats the color scheme I'm going with), and a few other things that I have in mind...Just wondering if anyone knows where I can get some made. Thanks

Oh ok now I know what you're talking about.....Yeah it might fuck some shit up but it'll probable work wonders on some areas of the shee.

Probably from the makers of the Boost bottle and Power Now valves

Or are we talking about some good ol' Turco

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...mp;#entry612902 I found these list night on ebay. Buy it now for $475....If they are still there

I understand that. I was just surprised at his starting prices. I know when someoone posts a Part out here that the post has a lot of replies asking for certain things....Just thought I would let people know about the parts on Ebay.