RATBIKE0130

You definitely have something hooked up wrong. Take your stator back off and use a meter to check the wires. If you have two single bullet connectors you should have little resistance between the two wires... basically a direct connection. If you have three single wires the two yellow wires plug into the two yellow wires from the rectifier regulator. The third wire should be black and that will connect to the black ground wire in your system. The three other wires should be red to positive battery, black to battery negative, and blue not connected. You should connect the wiring harness blue wire to the battery positive and ground the negative battery to the frame. Something isn't correct with your wiring.

How many watts of light are you putting out? You must be drawing a lot of power off the battery if you can't provide at least 14.5 volts output with the motor at roughly half the normal operating rpms. In reality anything over 55-60 watts is not worth the extra draw on the battery. If you still need more light output start shopping for some HID's.

What sprocket did you mark and how many links do you have in your chain? If you can'd divide the number of links in the chain by the number of teeth on the sprocket you marked your grease pen and get an even number the marks are useless. Just think about how many teeth are on that sprocket and how many links are in the chain. If your chain is 118 links and you have 41 teeth on your rear sprocket the sprocket will rotate 2.87804878048780487... times for every single rotation of the chain. Will your marks line up after the chain rotates 1 time? How about 3? Maybe 2,878 times it will. A better test would be to mark the axle and the sprocket hub and see if the hub is spinning on the axle which I bet it is. My sprocket hub can spin back and forth maybe 1/8-1/4 inch at the teeth and I know if I drop the clutch it's going to jump splines.

My take... Those holes are for lubing the end of the shift cam. The end just rotates in the case with no bushing or bearing to help support it. Yakki designs makes a shift cam with a bearing on the outer end but is expensive. Not worth the cost but does prevent any case wear from shifting. It looks like someone added a bushing in there as well. I would keep those cases as spares.

The clip only keeps the shaft from pushing the plug out. The lock washer that holds the shift shaft adjustment screw holds that shaft in place.

No

It's fine. The pickup sends its signal by the back of the tab not the front. If you want me to explain how I know this I'll come back in and let you prove it to yourself. 95% of you still won't get it after explained.

Boring a cylinder larger without adjusting the head/domes will increase static and running compression numbers. A ported motor will show lower compression numbers when kicking the motor but once running the numbers will increase if everything is working together properly. Your gauge may read 120psi but, who's to say that the gauge you used is accurate?

Polish the supports and wires that touch the stinger tubes will melt. You might want to reroute that stuff if possible.

Nope not calling you a lier at all... just informing the others out there that don't believe that Alba is capable of good work. If they didn't I wouldn't have spent probably close to 20K there. I go way back when Alba was just a hole in the wall shop that took over a car dealership building close to the end of Poway RD.

Ok if anyone wants the real truth this is it. I like DRI live close to Alba and know just about everyone there. The was a shop across from Duncan Racing... Samcoe (ring a bell DRI?). Samcoe decided to quit running his own business and sold off his machines to Alba. In the process Alba offered Sam a position doing the same thing he was doing at his own business but without the hassles or phones, paperwork, and the other misc. shit that owning a business entails. Anyway Sam took the job and does all the Banshee cylinders that run through Alba. He does have something like 20 years of experience and has built a ton of bike that ran Baja 1k. Now for the names like Cory Ellis and Tracy and Wayne. Yes they are riding Alba bikes. Yes they are done by employees of Alba. No you won't get a motor built by the same guys doing the pro motors. Just like every race time out there, each team has a mechanic and that mechanic sticks to working on the few bikes he is in charge of. Does this mean your motor done by Alba will suck... NO. You have to balance out power with reliability. A race motor is probably going to have all the internals replaced after every event. Your play motor isn't going to make the same power but it will last longer. Hope this clears some of the drama up... no need to kill the messenger... I'm just telling it like it is.

Crankworks... www.crankworks.com No need to have the thing rewelded. You can have max load or tz bearings installed as well.

If you look at the post right above mine it may make a little more sense to you... :yankyank:

If your oil does not have coolant in it, did you make sure you lined up the little bumps on the bearings with the notches in the case? Before you just tear it back apart do a leak down test with the clutch cover off and make sure it's not the main seal. Make sure you seal the coolant tube that goes through the top case. If you are losing pressure try pinching the vent hose on the back of the motor for for a min. then release it. If you hear air escape when you release the hose split the case and check the bearings alignment. If it's not leaking out there it could be a head gasket/o-ring.

Base gasket .270 inches = 6.858mm's which would make the pistons a little higher than tdc on stock cylinders with a 4mm stroke and 5mm longer rods. You said "pulled the jugs for coating", what do you mean by this? Is this a monoblock Cheetah, Cheetah Cub, T-rex, Superior Sleeve, FMF, Vitos, or any other brand of cylinder? A standard base gasket is around 0.018-0.020". Either something is fishy with your motor or you don't have accurate tools to measure things.

clutch basket, clutch hub, clutch pressure plate, springs, friction plates, steel plates, and the ablility to add one extra friction and steel plate giving more holding power. Worth the money??? maybe... Bling factor hidden behind the clutch cover = extremely high!

lets check your method... 64*54= 3456 = remove last digit 345 thats pretty close to the actual 347.435 now a stroker 68*61= 4148 = 414 = actual 443.065 your method is almost 30cc off not even close if you ask me

Too many variables... tempature is the main one. Are you talking jetting it for now or when the season starts or mid season when it's cold? Those pipes are choking your motor down by the way.

You have stock replacement pistons 65.50mm diameter. How are you measuring your bore size and piston size? If you don't have the proper tools and method your numbers don't mean anything. I don't remember the crank numbers off the top of my head but if you didn't have a spacer plate or the head isn't cut (do the pistons come out of the cylinders at top dead center?) then you don't have a stroker.

The amount to remove will depend on the thickness of the fibers... some are thicker than others and will need more removed from clutch cover. I just took a mill to mine and cut them down until I reached the screw holes.

If you need a manual buy a factory manual. They are more through anyway.

Like eman says... lift the back off the ground and have some one turn the wheels while you shift down. You should be able to get it into neutral from there. Check the adjustment of the shiftshaft while it's in gear.

Those are good for newbies.... just another door stop to me

The o-rings just help the clutch disengage. 99% of the people ditch them when replacing the clutch. If yours were gone don't worry about it.