RATBIKE0130

Ok here is what I have spares of 152,158,158 (yes I have two sets of 158 spares), 160, and 165. I have others but they are part of my jet board so I'm a little hesitant to letting them go. Anyway I have 175, 168, 165, 162, 160, 158, 152, 150, and 148 for my personal collection. If your want the spares let me know. PM me if interested.

I have a bunch of jets around that range for PWK & PJ carbs. Some have not been used and some have maybe a tank run through them. I'll get back to you tonight and let you know what I have and how much.

The lock nut is facing the wrong way. You don't need the spacer. Now go put it together.

Bansh I know how you hate Alba with a passion but they do carry a Yamaha "Works" clutch perch and lever that match the stock brake lever. I believe they are around $35 for the setup. I could get you one for a slightly better price if you want to meet up with me and bring cash.

Just make sure they are forged and you'll be fine.

Drain the tranny oil if there is any... I bet it's way low which causes the welded gear or gears that addicted experienced. Time to take the clutch cover off and see what you can find...

If your the one that put the gear on in the first place are you sure you put the clip on with the correct side facing out?

I have not rode a 4mm cub yet but there should be a seat of the pants dyno improvement with the 7mm. You should have a bit more torque and around 10hp difference. I have removed the head for inspection and it's holding up great. I wish I had these cylinders a long time ago. I am not running a lock up... I have an 8 plate setup with street bike plates and springs. You will get tired from pulling in the clutch on long rides if your shifting a lot but with the extra torque you will be shifting less than you would with a stock motor. I mainly ride in Glamis, Gordon's, and Ocotillo Wells. I only have a +6 swingarm and it does keep the front end down quite a bit better than the arm I had on it before. I didn't want to go with anything longer since I mainly dune/rip down washes and I need to be able to turn. Make sure you take your time wearing the motor in and warm up the bike for a few mins before you ride... don't just get on it and rip either. You'll be happy no doubt.

Tell your builder to set you up with 15:1 compression ratio. That should require around 100-105 octane.

I have been running a 7mm cub for the last year... very strong motor even with the jetting being rich. Nates "supercub" is just a bigger bore made from the same casting as a regular cub. The power difference isn't much between the standard 68 bore and the 72... just a couple HP and # of torque. I know it was easier to get larger bore WSM pistons when I was building my motor so I had Nate bore it out a bit before porting it. You'll like the new motor no matter what.... just be prepared to spend more time looking at the sky. It's still rideable with the short swingarm but you won't be able to launch worth a shit in any drag race.

It's not really a problem... the swingarm tapers towards the carrier making it look even farther off than it is. I know the chain still slides from the right corner towards the center and I have never had a problem on either lonestar swingarms I have had on my banshee. In other words quit looking at it and go ride it. :beer:

The rs in your name must stand for REALLY SLOW... that kind of gearing is a waste on a banshee.

I don't see you offering anything b33rs... $120

Minkia do you have the matching black front wheel hubs?

I'll start at a decent number to skip over the BS offers.. $50.00

PM Bansh88 on the board... I know he has a set of Black Fullbore rear plastics for sale.

7/8"

Did you put the locking ring in place?

Cole you might have been able to find it on the web... you just have to know where to look or whom to ask. It does seem like 90% of the stuff you learn about Banshees happens to yours first and then you have to know how to figure out how to fix it. Some people just read the fixes on here and think they know it all and repeat it to any new members with problems. TORS is a great example...

I got mine in the mail today... hope you guys get yours soon

No problem John... I hope to meet up with you guys at Glamis this upcoming year. I bet you guys already have the dates marked off on your calendars! I hope to take some time off ahead of time to get some riding in with everyone during the week. :beer:

No problem Alex... I hate to hear about shee's that done run... specially when they have a bunch of 4 stroke riding buddies that need to have their asses handed to them!

Gaz take a picture of it and post it here... the blue wire is some sort of over charge protection circuit. If you use a small battery you would need to connect that to the positive terminal but since you are running a larger battery you can just tape it off.

Here is what I would do... report the problem to ebay and paypal and ECC. Tell ECC that you will ship the one you have back as soon as you receive a BRAND NEW stator from them like what was advertised in their auction. Don't ask for a refund... you'll come out ahead if you make them live up to what their auction states. It's a legal binding contract according to ebay. I live 15 mins away from there so if you need some help dealing with them let me know.

Yes it's fine... thats what I have on my system.