RATBIKE0130

I was just searching photo bucket for some pictures of Banshee's and I think I came across cutiegirlracing at a concert.... Pic removed (freaken whiners) clicky instead

A big gas tank and suspension is pretty much it. If you ride at night you might want to look into a battery setup and some HID lights. There are a couple guys that race out in the desert and they will most likely chime in with more.

Ducman the cub cylinders are cast with a zero deck height for the crank and piston required. If you are a member of planet sand you can click this link to a guide Calvin made for his cylinders Click Me Anyway you shouldn't need custom domes unless your builder has a preference in setup. You will need to run big bore domes with the larger bore cubs. The cylinders come in two bore sizes 65mm for use with Banshee style pistons or 68mm for Blaster pistons. You'll understand what I mean if you can read Calvin's post.

Don't forget the small stuff... stud extenders or longer case studs cylinder head studs coolant plugs wrist pin bearings coolant

Since your in San Diego I would say swing by Duncan Racing and pick up their stainless steel lock nut. It should hold up better than most. Just take out a loan for the cost of the stupid thing.

I can start one of my groups Banshees with my arm. Just grab the kicker and push on it. The only real way to tell whats going on is to do a compression test.

Justin your IR's don't need 12 volts to keep the ballasts ignited like the HID's do. If your battery is lower than 12 volts the IR's just won't put out all the light possible and get dimmer as the voltage gets lower and lower.

Justin I can run all 4 of my HID's at the same time. They draw more power than just your two. I have noticed that Trailtech HID's require a minimum of 12 volt to operate. If they voltage drops one of both of the lights will shut off.

I had my rear shock rebuilt by PC out in El Cajon about two seasons ago. I had the same thing done to mine as what you did with the exception of spring rate for my weight and swingarm length. They actually got it dialed in so I didn't really need to touch any of the settings. I like a touch more compression dampening so I turned it in 2-3 clicks. Did you have the seal head replaced? Maybe they screwed something up on the install. If you need help dialing it in we are making a trip to Glamis the first weekend of December (2-4th).

Ok I will say something here... yes having your paddles not lined up can cause you to pull to one side but the only time it has ever happened to me was going off a jump. The same thing can happen if your paddles are perfectly lined up as well though. Anytime one paddle will have more traction while coming off the face of a jump will throw you around. I have never experienced a bike pulling off to one direction on flat sand if the paddles are not lined up... my paddles aren't lined up right now and I don't really care that they are off by an couple of inches.

If anyone needs a head for this crank running stock cylinders I have a billet head with domes cut for the 7mm and 100 octane. PM me for pictures and price.

I'll take that "yes it's fast..." tag? Just tell me a paypal address... need to get rid of that stupid warning label and don't want to leave just the holes there.

I don't know if this chart will help you any more than the one on sudco but it's worth a look. www.carbparts.com/keihin/needles_tuning/jet_needles/pj_34_39_jn.html

Justintoxicated had the same problem... I bet those are streamline brake lines. The best thing you can do is just let the block hang free or zip tie it loosely to the steering stem. Call up Streamline and complain about this problem if these are made by that company.

PM Justintoxicated I know he's got a whole set of stock a-arms

Do you have a title for it? If so I'm interested.

Are you sure you advanced the timing? If you retarded the timing you will have a harder time starting it.

The only bad thing about those wheels is the weight. They are a lot heavier than standard wheels.

I have a Hush kit for toomey pipes I'll sell. PM me and I'll let you know whats up.

snap some pics and send them to [email protected] How new are these carbs? What kind of shape are they in? Did you grind down the main jet cap for clearing the clutch arm?

Thank god someone knew what I was talking about with out just giving it away. The way how Vforce reeds work is they increase reed tip area. They don't have to open as far so they flow more without having to resort to paper thin reeds that don't last long.

You guys are really trying too hard to figure out how these reeds work. It's way simpler than you think. There is only so much you can do to a reed itself to make it flow better. I believe the way how they get these reeds to work better than stock is probably also the reason why the reeds don't last long and are not recommended for built up motors.

Reed spacers can make a difference. On some big bore motors there isn't enough crank case volume and putting a reed spacer between the cylinder and reed might make a little more power. If you put the reed spacer between the reed cage and intake it probably would not make a noticeable difference. On a motor with smaller transfer area and some what large crank case volume adding a reed spacer between the cylinder and reed will cause a loss in performance. If you put the spacer between the carb and reed on the same motor you will have a slow lazy signal on the jets and throttle response will suffer. You probably will need to jet larger on this setup to compensate for the weak carb signal. Most banshees actually have a small crankcase volume and additional work on the transfers might benifit from adding spacers. If you do a "template" port job and don't touch the transfer tunnels at all your going to make things worse by adding spacers.

No Nate buys blanks from David and cuts them to his specs.

It doesn't drastically improve shifting... if you want to improve the way how it shfts get your shift star modified. I bought one of those shift drums for my stroker motor only because I didn't want to use parts from my other motor to finish the stroker motor. The two motors shift exactly the same.... spend your money on a modifed shift star instead.