RATBIKE0130

Remove the outer cover (3 screws) then you can grind them down until you open up the screw holes. Clean up all the shavings and make sure the screw holes are clean. Reinstall the outer cover and use locktite on the screws. Let it dry over night and reinstall the clutch cover. It shouldn't leak if you put a bit of locktite on the screws and let it dry before putting oil in there. I figure out that problem before I even ran my motor causing that damage. You should have noticed the limited clutch lever travel.

Well first tell me how did you weld the ball onto the clutch pushrod. If you were holding in the clutch and it happened then no big deal. If you happened to drain the oil and noticed it was low and that caused the ball to weld to the rod you might be in for a surprise. What does this have to do with anything.... well if you just simply held in the clutch and it welded the ball did you take the motor out of the frame to fix it? If you did were you certain you hooked up the vent hoses properly? On the back of the motor below the rear motor mount there is a plastic vent fitting. If you don't reinstall that hose your tranny oil will drain out the back of the case. So was your oil low at any point since you replaced the clutch? If it was you could have started to or did weld some of the gears on the gear shafts. Easy test to see if this happened to you: shift the bike into neutral, pull the clutch off and remove the clutch basket, lift the rear of the quad off the ground, hold the input shaft (the one the clutch basket spins) with one hand while turning the rear wheels with your other hand. You should have no trouble at all keeping the input shaft from spinning (must be in neutral!!!!). If the bike is in neutral and there is no way to keep that shaft from spinning start shopping ebay for a good used transmission. Oh and in case your wondering how I know this... I've worked on three bikes that have had this happen to. I'm not repeating some stupid crap I read off the internet somewhere. I hope this helps and isn't the cause of your problems!

If you already have an advance timing plate it will not show the same gains. Save your money for some motor mods or suspension.

Lean or detonating

Kilroy unscrew the sparkplug cap and cut the sparkplug wire back about 1/2" and screw it back in. Do the other side as well. Ghostrider pot head take the right carb off and unscrew the pilot jet and make sure it's not plugged. Hold it up to a light and you should be able to see through it. If it's clear than make sure both slides open at the same time and have about the same amount of opening when the bike it at idle. Make sure the air screws are both turned out the same amount of turns.

Brad if you did line this stuff up and have the spacers in the proper locations there is something I am suspecting is the problem. I'll hold off posting here until a few more people post and try their best at convincing you that so and so part is the problem.

Simular to this ( http://www.macdizzy.com/2ban.htm ) but can be more extreme.

I have made a couple in the past... They are easy to make if you have the tools. If I can get enough interest maybe I'll make a few up and sell them.

Case matching is good for about 3-4HP. If you don't do it right you end up not getting the required lubrication to the main bearings. Take a look at the top case next time you have the cylinders off and you will see the hole that feeds/vents the main bearings. Will you notice the 3-4HP? Probably not unless your looking for every last 1/10 of a HP. Jet your bike wrong and you'll lose more than what case porting can provide.

I've been in Kevins car one time... lucky for me he did open her up getting on the highway. It was a fun ride for sure. Beats driving a heavy tank of a truck everyday.

He needs both gear clusters with bearings. He doesn't need the kick start idler gear or the shift forks or any of that stuff.

The difference between the old version and the new version of the stators done by Ricky Stator is the primary ignition coil resistance. The old ones were out of spec reading 5-10 ohms high. They had nothing to do with the lighting coil. You probably overlooked something. If you do go with the DC conversion it is totally worth buying the MR16 HID's from trailtech. They aren't very expensive considering how much you will spend on a good set of halogen lights and mounts. Wallrat knows what my bike looks like at night... I wouldn't want to be riding towards my bike at night.

You can static balance a crankshaft which will do you little good. I was talking about dynamic balance. There is a balance ratio usually between 50 and 60% to limit vibrations but it is impossible to balance a 2 stroke crankshaft completely. It's impossible! The problem is the crank rotates and the rod is always changing position in relation of the crank wheels. You can use a machine spinning the crank at a certain rpm with the rod pinned in a certain location but what good is that in real life? Do you account for the weight of the oil that ends up everywhere in a running motor? What happens when carbon builds up on the piston? What happens if you spin balance the crank at 8k rpms and then drop it to 2k rpms. Go find a tilt a whirl and tell me what happens when the thing starts to spin faster. Why do you think honda's very own trx250r still needs an engine counter balancer!

There is no way to spin balance a banshee or any two stroke crank for that matter. The crank wheels are counter weighted to account for the rod length and pistion assembly at a certain rpm. There is a ratio to follow but it's not a strict design number.

Looks like things have changed haven't they.

Ok guys... 550 shipped UPS ground anywhere in the lower 48...

Ok how about 400 for the swingarm and 180 for the shipping ups ground. Sounds fair to me

I'm on the left coast... and 400 is low balling. If you want to only spend 400 check on ebay and hope what you get is welded by someone that has some experience and has a jig setup to make sure stuff is lined up correctly. Remember this is a tig welded chromoly Lonestar swingarm. The wear marks are mainly just the powder coat. Take a look at the last picture so you can see the true size of the wear... not the blown up picture showing that your ass crack is the grand canyon. The bearings maybe used but what do you expect... I'm not going to put it on just to look at it. If it's bent I would return your money and enough money to ship the swingarm back to me. Anyway Jman05 I would not recommend this swingarm for MX riding. You will want something stock length or shorter to make the banshee turn better and put more weight over the rear wheels for traction.

I'm willing to deal a little guys... I definitly don't need Banshee parts though...

Lee is there anyway you can make the font size adjustable. All those guys that say it's too small need glasses. I can read this stuff from across the room.

Sold no thanks to Ironhead.

How much oil is in the transmission? If there isn't much you likely welded a couple gears onto the shafts.

I've had a Bendy Blue before and bent that with just hard riding in sand. The G-force has a much better warranty which is why I went with them this time around. So far everything has been holding up just fine. If you find something better let us know... I'll be interested should I bend the G-force.

Big pin 10mm can come with 120mm length rods.

Round housing swingarm 15/41 gearing takes 124 links.