RATBIKE0130

I have a 7mm crank built by Crankworks. It has a max load bearing on the PTO side. It has long rods and is welded on both the inner and outer crank webs. $350+ the ride or meet in San Diego area. PM if interested

The reeds are stock... the head looks like it's stock but you can't really tell until you pull the gasket off and clean it up. The right cylinder (one on the left) looks like some mild port work but you can't tell until you take more pictures of the transfer ports and intake but the intake bridge is narrowed. Those pistons are toast and I would send the cylinders out for a bore & hone and get new pistons. The carbs look like PJ 34mm Keihin carbs. Good luck with your new money pit. It's going to take some $$$ to get that to be reliable again.

+1 for John... I get the privledge of meeting up with him once a year out in Glamis and he as well as his brother are stand up guys. If any of you guys do manage to make it you'll be hooked just like they are! Glamis is calling.....

Good to see your still around Rodney. Hope to see you guys in Glamis for Presidents Weekend.

Large "C" clamp with wood block on the pump side and large socket with the drive side pressing on the seal. You should have very little problem pressing it in.

Not true at all... Blaster pistons have a higher wrist pin location. The piston crown is also has a different radius.

What tires, gearing, and how long of a run are you making?

Maybe you were absent as well because you obviously forgot Bernoulli's Principle. If the intake was designed correctly with smooth leading edges the boundary layer would not be 2mm as you assume (How did you get 2mm anyway? Just pulling numbers out of your ass or do you have modeling programs?). In reality there is a couple things going on with those crosshairs. First they do help with laminar airflow. Second they help aim the intake charge. Third they help with intake velocity. Think about this... why do V-force reeds flow more than stock style reeds or other aftermarket brands all while having lots of dividers creating these 2mm boundary layers?

Oh yeah and don't forget to tell everyone what kinds of crap Rancho pulled. Talk about ripping someone off.

Hey Matt, Did you get the water pump bearing pressed in? Let me know when you get that bike fired up. Your clutch really doesn't need the heavy springs. With the stock porting and semi low compression on your bike in combination of the stock pipes really makes heavy springs not neccessary. Oh and that shorty lever isn't making the clutch pull any easier. You could always try to move the lever closer to the grip and shift the switches on the other side of the perch. Always remember that if the throttle gets stuck your going to have a harder time reaching the kill switch though. Before you ride your bike make sure you double check all the nuts and bolts on your bike. I noticed that your front lug nuts were loose and you don't want a wheel coming off at any speed. If you need help with anything let me know.

Buy graded bolts... buying cheap china stuff is not worth the dollar savings.

That is unless you want to run 65.75mm banshee pistons or pistons larger than 66mm with a piston pin offset 5mm higher to accommodate a long rod crank or stroker. Wiseco does not offer pistons in these sizes. WSM makes forged pistons as well as cast pistons. They are made in Germany and last time I checked German cars are some of the nicest machines around.

I'm going to have to agree with Wallrat. If you want HID lights then do the conversion. If you don't know a bit about electronics don't try to do the conversion because you will end up with problems. Bansh-eman has read about all the bad experiences on the board. He does not know about the 4 guys running HID's in our little camp that have not had problems. One of the guys has a HID on his CRF50 pit bike with no problems at all... It's all up to the installer imo.

If I read your first post correctly you CAN SEE YOUR CRANK BEARING AFTER YOU TOOK YOUR FLYWHEEL AND STATOR OFF? If you can DO NOT RIDE IT! At least not until you can split the cases and put a crank seal in it's proper place. You'll just be tearing the motor apart after the first ride because you will blow the motor. Maybe I just didn't read your post correctly.

The problems start where you receive the ticket and you will get one. From that spot she or you must walk back to camp or hitch a ride from someone that has an extra seat. This doesn't mean in the bed of a truck. If guess if she doesn't mind sitting at Olds for an hour while you go get your 4x4 truck to pick her up...

The only way I would buy it is with a title/pink slip. I still would like to see pictures... I have the cash in hand

Are you willing to crate it up and does it have a title? Send me some pics

DO NOT RUN THE TRANSMISSION VENT (T JOINT) BACK TO THE SWINGARM!!!!! Sometimes these guys have good ideas but this one will cause you to lose all your tranny fluid causing your gears to weld to the output shafts and burn up your clutch and weld the push rod to the ball. I've fixed three motors that have had this happen. Wait 4 motors... one I told the owner he needed a complete new motor after the gears locked up and some how smacked the bottom of the cases cracking it around the drain plug. The factory routing is over the motor up the steering stem hoop, over the top radiator mount then back down the steering stem hoop to a welded on fold over clamp/tab. You need the vent to be as high as possible so when you climb/decend hills you will not lose transmission oil. It might not happen the first time you ride it or the first year but it will eventually burn you in the end.

It actually increases your compression by a slight amount when you bore your cylinders out and don't change anything else.

Care for stock 9" rear wheels? PM me if your interested

If you just took the stock carbs/TORS system off make sure you unplug the black box under the gas tank. If you don't push on the throttle the switch in the throttle assembly tells the CDI that your throttle is stuck WFO so it kills the spark.

Get big bores. The small bore pipe stinger tube size is a little too restrictive on larger motors such as yours and cause the piston temperatures to be close to critical. Get the pistons hot enough and you will melt down.

I just fixed an older one because my flywheel took out the pickup coil... no problem with that one. The new one I just got two weekends ago didn't have a problem either. Maybe you need to get laid so you can relax and not use that pent up anger on your stator. :yelrotflmao:

I have a blue one just like the one in the second link. I only paid something like 78 bucks for it. It's pretty smooth and seems well built. The arm inside looks like a monkey made it but works just fine. It actually let my slides rise up higher than the stock throttle does so nothing dangles down blocking the flow. So far so good and I would probably buy another if this one broke.

I wouldn't do business with them if he gave me a 99% discount.