400rednEX

i bought a set of 10 paddle extremes from a buddy that sold his quad and i would trade them for 8 paddle haulers or extremes. the paddles are in great shape and the ones to be traded would have to be in as good of shape. i'll be at silver lake dunes june 5th and 6th if anyone wants to trade, i don't want to do any shipping.

does anyone run those solid aluminum bushings in their lower mounts?

yeah, ive done that too to springs, but i don't want to screw up the aluminum cases.

maybe ill just try half solid mounts and half new rubber mounts on the lower torque arms first since its such a pain.

my front is getting a little worn, but not too bad. i'm going to get a new one though.

i saw on the expanded picture in the clymer that the isolators are supposed to be like that, mine were both on the front mount. maybe that would help. i was going to get the solid aluminum inserts for the lower strut mounts instead of welding on the frame. maybe ill just try new bushings in them, or solid in one end and new bushings in the other. the motor doesn't shake that much and i have a newer crank that was trued and welded by f.a.s.t., the problem is the jumping and popping when i hammer on it in second and the paddles hook hard. my mods are in my sig. jared, have you removed the front and rear mount bushings? they seem like theyre in there good. thanks for the replies.

you have to use different pistons with the long rod 4mm, either blaster or banshee specific long rod pistons. are your cylinders already ported for stock stroke? if they are either stay with the stock stroke or sell them and get another set of cylinders to port for the 4mm crank. the long rod crank seems to be the preferred one. if you stay with stock stroke and your crank has a lot of hours consider a new or newer crank and have it trued and welded.

i'm having some problems with the engine moving too much under acceleration and making the chain pop and jump, and the chain is tight so it isn't that. would solid bushings for the lower motor mounts be a good solution for this or do they cause too much vibration and other problems to be worth it. i could try new factory bushings in them too if that would solve it. is there anything in between? this is a duner \ dragger not a drag only machine. also, is there a trick to removing the front and rear engine mount bushings or do you just have to pound on them to get them out.

what do you guys think of bel ray H1R?

are they still dunable without your hands falling asleep or is it a drag only thing?

if the puller gets real tight you can smack the head of the puller with a hammer to break it loose too. you broke the head off the puller? if its that tight maybe try hitting it with a hammer a couple times to see if it pops loose. just don't go crazy and bend the crank or mess up the bearings by wailing on it.

i was just searching and found this thread, how much extra vibration do you get from solid mounts? i'm trying to fix my chain skipping problem and am either going to get new bushings or mounts, or solid mounts. and where do you buy new front and rear bushings for the other mounts?

how long did that swinger end up? stock or -1?

flywheel?

i have a primary gear set, now i just need a flywheel.

mine is doing this too, only in second it seems. worn engine mounts will do it? that would be better than the tranny being bad i guess. my sprockets are good and i tightened up the chain to the point of being too tight and it still did it.

i need a primary gear set and a flywheel, and if possible the 2 phillips head screws that hold the shift drum plate on. when those screws go through the primary gear set it isnt good for them.

measure the squish now and cut the head down until its .040"

you can cut the head at least .030" without rechambering it, i think i did mine .040" and it was still good, but you have to manually check the clearance between the piston and head. i have a stock head that is cut .100" and redomed on mine now instead of an aftermarket head. no blown o rings and a sleeper look. if you have low compression because of a worn topend you need to fix that first.

paint the rears too.

it sounds like your kicker gear isn't disengaging all the way. do you have that little clip in the right slot in the case? get out your clymers and double check.

did you soak the clutch in oil before you installed it?

no burnt air filters with the single. its a nice clean setup.

i have a better idle and off idle response with both single setups than i did with stock duals. there has to be a problem with the carb. what is the airscrew set at? in is richer.

going up in compression will gain power, especially in the low end, but if you don't want to run race gas don't go too high.