400rednEX

if it idled before and then quit idling the pilot jet is probably plugged.

you might need to adjust the shift shaft so it is evenly spaced at the shift star too.

since a gasket kit is only $20 you might as well take it apart and find out. check the crank too.

did you check to see that the fins are all there/good and the drive pin and gear are not stripped?

can the center main bearings be replaced on a stock crank? is that price including new rods?

if the crank goes bad while running it it will destroy a lot of stuff and cost you a lot of money. thats what i'm doing now. the rod bearing started going and hammered the piston into the head, ruining both and scratching the cylinder up, and it could have been a lot worse. and when i shut it off it was running good and just making some noise. i bought an almost new crank and am having it welded at fast for $75. i wouldnt mess around with that crank if you can feel play. at least have a reputable builder check it.

all i ride is quads and i love my twist. you can hang on tighter in the rough stuff. i ride quads with thumb throttles too and the throttle control in the whoops seems similar to me. i ride dunes and love the tight whooped out sections in the trees.

anyone?

banshee cases split top and bottom, i don't think you need to do this.

i'll be spending a bunch of $ at fast because my tranny bearings are going bad. are the bearings pressed on the tranny or slip fit? i haven't tore it apart yet.

the direct drive cast cover looks nice but i got a new modquad cover & lockout for $315 shipped.

is the modquad a good lockout too?

are the plugs black and wet or discolored and dry? by your listed mods it looks like you are close or might need a bigger main. is your carb dirty? electrical problems?

ebay or trinity. or in the for sale section here.

when i had gorr port my cylinders i talked to him a couple times on the phone and he seemed patient and willing to answer questions. he said the thing about charging for phone calls because people that weren't customers kept calling him for info so he couldn't get his work done. the couple times i talked to him were before i committed to his work too. i'm not trying to brag him up but he wasn't a dick to me.

your topend shouldn't be bogging, if it is check tour airfilter and jetting. if it bogs you're probably rich, if it's dead you could be lean. look at your plugs.

i had to lean my needle 1 clip too.

includes o-ring,adapter, filter & clamp. $30 shipped

i had an intermittent problem like that, the coil power wires were loose. your coil could also be going bad.

instead of a stock one you could get a modded shift shaft from jeff at fast racing. they're supposed to shift smoother, you'd have to ask him.

has anyone at least noticed a power gain going up from the 33mm?

has anyone dynoed these carb on the same machine? or even the 35mm? i would assume the 33mm is holding me back but i would like to know if im going to be gaining something before dropping the cash. it runs real good with the 33mm now and i do pretty good in drags, but it's a duner/dragger.

maybe you could measure around the biggest part of the expansion chamber to compare. i have some fmf gold series too so i'm curious also. mine look similar but i'm not sure if they're quite that fat. it sounds like you're happy with the power though. mine seem to run good.

it's possible the arms are just a little bit different. i ground down the weld a little, but only because it was real thick. if nothing else, new bushings are cheap if they wear faster.

i have my dust caps on. i had to trim them a little where they hit the a arm tubes. why do you say they won't work?